CV Axle repair recommendations or options (recently replaced)

It's been a while since I posted but I got a question or problem "actually problem". I have my setup for a while now and had just noticed CV Axle torn. I had them replaced maybe 2-3 years ago. Autozone brand and now both ripped. What other options would help and not rip after 2-3 years? I thought/read a differential drop kit could help but unsure.

My setup is still OME 882 and Billy's up front...

Note I only noticed CV axle bust after a strange click noise and Taco wouldn't start. Yes starter issue. I spent 1/2 of today removing unit and that is when I saw splatter of grease from one cv axle and a tear in the other side "driver's".. What are my possible options? Do I need the drop kit or additional weight up front to account for OME 882/Billy's? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm still new to mods/upgrades...

 

I heard if it's clicking, the axle is worn and you should replace the whole unit.

Maybe those have a lifetime warrantee?

OEM axles have better articulation than any aftermarket brands, but are more expensive. Lots of people recommend cjv cv axles. They are rebuilt OEM cvs

 

I saw some other post on cjv cv axles recommendations but wasn't familiar. I didn't do the aftermarket replacement work so maybe the shop will guarantee parts. If not it's another project....Seeing the Taco is stuck at the moment this maybe a good time for work. Well I would hope maximum 2 weeks worth of weekend work.. My truck is disabled at this time.....

 

A drop kit will extend the life of your boots some. I would get the lifetime aftermarket cv's from a local parts dealer that has the lifetimes. If a boot tears then you just replace the whole unit for free. Free if you do the labor yourself of course. I have tried non oem boots and they would tear in about 4 months. The oem ones would last me much longer. But changing out boots is not fun, I just replace the whole cv unit in half the time now.

 

It is the angle from the lift .

My truck not being lifted I have close to 60,000 miles since I replaced mine

 

Some members report the SDHQ boots last longer with lifted trucks. I have a set waiting to go one my OEM axle. In addition to that, there's also the boot slide mod to help extend the life of the inner boot.

 

It's a bummer you didn't save your OEM axles and just reboot them. They are superior to anything else out there. But, I've heard good things about Napa lifetime axles so that's what I'd recommend you buy this time around. To address the boots tearing, you can do a mod to the boot or buy a different style aftermarket boot that slides down the shaft further so the ribs don't rub together while the axle is turning. The friction created from the ribs touching causes the boots to tear prematurely.

Never give up your OEM axles unless they're shot. At the very least, reboot them and keep them as spares.

Here's a video I made with my buddy Sean showing how to pull the axles, reboot them with an optional extended boot mod and reinstalling them:

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Thanks for all advice. I'll be trying to get by with the torn boots for a little bit. I need to look at CVJ, SDHQ, Napa and other places for prices. Plus I have time to get familiar with replacing the CV axles myself. I had a good auto shop do the last install but I'm now on a budget so I have to save where I can. Timmah thanks for the video. I know I've seen other topics on CV replacement so I need to dig further. At least I can get more familiar with this type of work to then be confident in further add-on's.

Luckily I have a beat up Corolla I can use instead of my Taco to drive me to work. At least the Taco now starts after getting the new started installed this morning. Amazing how much quicker it is to install versus extract the starter. I figured out an angle slightly below starter to get bolts off after trying maybe 5000 different ways....

 

Well tell me what the hell I should tell the repair shop. The replacement CV axles for my original OEM were warrantied so I thought hell it will save me time on the weekend to just pay labor to have shop replace them. So I took it in today and drove my truck home this evening and parked it. I didn't check but when I came back from walking dogs I noticed a puddle. Is this the clip that wasn't set right and is why for the gap? Crap! Let me know your thoughts. They said they could warranty cv axle due to lift strain and potential rub. I thought it was primarly rub concern but this same shop did the original cv replacement with the lift at the time. I hope they just say the boots and not the installation. They did it right the first time... Not a mechanic so need all your thoughts.

 

The spacing looks okay on the second pic but not the first. Maybe they messed up the diff seals when installing? I don't think you can reassemble the hub unless the CV is all the way in.

 

Driver's side has a larger gap and larger leak... Passenger side smaller gap and slight leak. Upset seeing they did a good job originally but going to call shop in the morning. Not sure how much fluid can leak out over night, so not sure if I should drive truck with all the leaked diff fluid in the morning. Previous CV Axle's didn't exhibit this problem, they were just torn after 2 years but no no no no gap....OR LEAK... Anyone know someone in the DFW area who could help out if mechanic shop gives me grief....????

 

If you're ADD then yeah, you'll need to top off the fluid before driving. I would keep the receipt and make them pay for the diff oil you purchased.

 

Looks like they messed up the seal.

 

Yep, they definitely damaged a seal in there.....

 

I'm not 100% sure your seal is damaged. In that first pic, it's obvious the mechanic did not seat the CV axle shaft all the way in. You have to pop the CV shaft into the differential until that clip on the end of shaft fully seats where it's suppose to go. A test to see if you've got it fully seated is to pull out with your hands to see if the clip is preventing you from pulling out the shaft. If it only pulls out a little and stops, the clip is properly seated. I've never tried to drive a IFS truck with a partially seated CV axle but I'm thinking the reason why your leaking fluid is the seal lip isn't meeting up with the right spot on the axle shaft thus making a poor seal. At this point, I don't think I'd take it back the idiots at that shop. Watch my video and you'll see how you can pop the CV axle shaft in using a long pry bar and a hammer. Double check that's it's fully seated by pulling back on it and then top off your diff gear oil. Wipe up all the oil so you can then see after driving a bit if you really have a leaking oil seal.

If one of both seals are indeed leaking, check out this video my buddy Sean and I made changing them out. I'd go back to that shop and demand that they reimburse the labor they charged you. You should also go on Yelp and rip them a new one so others thinking about using this shop might think otherwise.

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Thanks for reply. I talked to mechanic and he said it should be fine for the short drive back to the shop. I took it back yesterday and got it back this morning. No more leak and it drives fine...

 

I’m replacing my wheel bearings, and had a question for you all.

CV axle isn’t leaking but has rust all around the end of it. Would you recommend proactively replacing it with a new CV axle? I already have a replacement, and thought I’d ask before taking it out of the box.

Also, if I use the old one, do I need a new clip?

 

New axles come with c-clips, no need to reuse them. If that's a generic parts store axle then I would replace it while you have it out. Might as well and most parts stores will give you a new axle for the old one (lifetime warranty on most).

 

Thanks! The one with the rust is the one that came with the truck. The new CV axle is aftermarket.