Cv axle broken again

Hey everyone,

I recently started breaking passenger side cv axles and I don't know what's up.

Both times they've broke on the inner joint, both times going under 6mph and both times turning left.
Both axles were brand new with less than 200miles on each.

I've never had this issues in the past 3.5 years of ownership, only the last two months has this occured after I ditched my lift blocks for lifted springs and got bigger tires.

-Cv axle angle is almost completely flat on level ground

Could the flex from the leaf springs and frame twist cause the CV to separate?

Does anyone have any suggestions or questions?


Would a better uca help this problem?

Thank you!!?

 

Wheel turned all the way when they break?

 

Not full lock but definitely turning.

 

Ok. I definitely don’t have any answer for you. I was thinking maybe your steering was over extending if you were at full lock adding strain. Otherwise I’ve got no clue. Sorry and good luck.

 

year

model

mileage at breakage

L i f t ????how high

 

Rancho 2.5" uca/diff spacer, axle was brand new less than 30 miles.
Previous axle last month brand new less that'll 200 miles.
DSS brand or DDS from carid. Com and a car quest brand cv

 

Probably just due to low quality CVs.

 

I’d do this, plus turn the wheel to the left and rotate the tire.
See if anything is suspect.

 

Use OEM CVs only, aftermarket are junk.

 

This ^

 

I had a similar problem where my halfshaft popped out of the stub shaft pretty much the same as it looks like yours did. See here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/passenger-side-half-shaft-broke.722269/

My truck has about 2-2.25" lift in the front.

When I pulled off the failed shaft and compared it to the new shaft I was going to replace it with, the old shaft looked about 1.5" shorter. The tulip cup on the halfshaft appeared to be shallower as well.

When I was limping it off the trail with the old, broken shaft, the half shaft barely had any engagement with the stub shaft, even when the truck was on the ground (which was as easy see given that the CV boot was torn to shreds when it failed).

My new shaft is a NAPA shaft with the "high performance" boots. Not OEM, but I've read good things about them and decided to try them out, as they are ~1/4 the cost of OEM. And as stated above, they are about 1.5" longer than the CV shafts that were installed on the truck when the shaft failed (it appears the NAPA shafts are the correct dimensions).

I'm out of town at the moment, but when I get home I plan on taking more detailed measurements to confirm--but at first glance, it looks like some of the non-OEM replacement brands have shorter halfshaft and shallower tulip cups on the inboard stub shafts--making it far easier for them to pop out, especially when lifted.

My initial guess is that the manufacturer of my old CV shafts that failed skimped manufacturing/material costs by making a shorter half shaft and shallower tulip cups on the stub shafts, which are compatible (for the most part) with stock height trucks, but that don't have sufficient engagement on lifted trucks, leading to these kinds of failures. As mentioned above, I plan to do more detailed measurements when I get home, but the initial inspection was pretty damning for the old shafts.

 

No it doesn't contact it I'll look this week/end for more less droop

 

Oem cv's are like 395$ a piece

 

Buy OEM. Online I purchased a brand new OEM axle for like $300. Worth the price for a robust trouble free item. Reman axles I stay away from, I would not even use them if someone gave me one for free unfortunately.

 

Do you have a measurement on the CV that worked for you?

 

Shitty part store CVS don't have the same range of motion as oem and will bind when drooped and turning. I'm sure with some research you can find a part store cv that doesn't suck. For first gens napa axles do alright.

 

CVJ Axles are awesome. I use mine pretty hard and double lock sometimes and haven't broken one yet for what its worth.

 

Competition CVs are $2000 a set but who's counting?

 

Go with CVJ axles. They sell remanufactured OEM CVs, at least with first gens they are about half price or less of a brand new one. And far better than any aftermarket brand (unless you're looking at the aftermarket RCV axles or the like for $2k/pair).

 

I've used cheap parts store CVs off and on for awhile and never had one break like that though, even after wheeling them. Usually its the boots on those cheap ones that rip and result in me changing them out. The cheap ones bind up a lot easier though so I can see this happening.

You're not turning in 4wd on dry pavement or anything like that right?