CRC SP-400 instead of Fluid Film

With the exception of a few comments, I have not seen any threads on using SP-400 instead of Fluid Film. Since there are a lot of Fluid Film threads I thought I would start a new thread about SP-400 and similar products.

I used Fluid Film for two winters. I have now switched over to CRC SP-400. I like it a lot better. It forms a thin durable film that does not attract dirt like Fluid Film does. It sprays on thin and penetrates into seams. It looks like, and has a mil spec rating type which leads me to believe it is or is very similar to spray on Cosmoline. I am really sold on it.

Annoyingly it does not come with a WD40 type of nozzle and straw. I bought a 32 inch long red WD40 style of straw and it has allowed me to spray into most every fold and cavity I have found with the frame. I removed the push in tabs for the front wheel-well splash shields so I could spray inside the front frame rails. I then replaced the removed tabs with some better ones. I was able to get the long straw into frame areas next to the gas tank. I also was able to get the straw into the inside of the lower suspension arms as well as the various frame cross overs. The Tacoma frame has a lot of overlapping sections and I was able to thread the straw deep into those areas. I suspect the SP-400 will last for the life of the truck where I sprayed it in areas that are not directly exposed to the elements.

Anyway, I am all nutty apeshit for this stuff. It does have a strong odor for a week or two after you put it on. Other than that, does anyone have any long term experience with this stuff? Time will tell if this was a good idea. My impression is this stuff is better than the Fluid Film type of rust preventers. The thing is though, the SP-400 is not marked as a vehicle undercoating/rust inhibitor which seems a bit odd.

There is also Cosmoline 342 and LPS 3 which seem similar but they both costs more than the SP-400. I have not tried those.

 

Haven't looked into this stuff yet but I do love the brake cleaner CRC makes. Just deciding if I even need any sort of rust inhibitor living in western Washington. Rains a ton so something like Woolwax would be more up my alley.

 

How cost effective is this? FluidFilm/Woolwax is anywhere from 35-50 bucks for a gallon, which is a lot of product. A gal is like 128 oz. How much does a can of this stuff cost and how far does it go? I just woolwaxed mine and I like I can spray it on extra thick in the problem areas.

 

Same as you here in W Washington. I’m actually amazed how many threads there are on this topic.

 

Yeah it is quite interesting. The only bad thing is all the threads seem to be discussing locations other than here. What are you going to go with?

 

I've noticed that. Frankly, I was thinking of going the winter without doing anything to see how it goes. I know for almost certain I"m not going to disassemble the truck to coat it. I may do the frame and most of the underside, but not sure with what yet. Will likely be spray can if I do it

What about you?

Frankly, I think it's interesting that it needs to be done at all - but I've never lived in a place that snows enough to worry about salt and what not

 

Yeah I haven't either. I didn't spray it with anything last winter and went in the snow and over the pass a bunch and I don't really notice anything. Maybe I will grab a couple cans of something and just try it out!

 

It's cosmoline, multiple companies sell it branded as their own. Good stuff indeed, though can be a pain to remove, not a problem as undercoating though.

 

Has anyone tried :

Par-Al-Ketone
$37.86

• Used for sealing purposes inside frame structures and struts
• May be applied by brushing, spraying, or dipping
• Drying time: 2 to 5 hours
• NOTE: This product cannot be shipped outside the contiguous United States (lower 48 states)

Black Bear Par-Al-Ketone is best known as one of the most rugged corrosion preventatives available, performing sucessfully for over 40 years protecting aircraft components and machine parts in outdoor storage and for export. This material is a blend of controlled oxidized petroleum fractions in a solvent solution. The protective film is stable from -20 deg.F to 180 deg.F. When applied the protective coating tends to displace moisture. When dry, the protective film retains substantial flexibility with a tendency to self-heat when ruptured. It may be safely applied over painted surfaces by using thinners such as mineral spirits or stoddard solvents. Clean surfaces provide best results. Should thickening occur due to cold temperature (below 40 deg.F) warming will restore consistancy. Thickening caused by extended exposure in open containers can be corrected by using accepted thinners. Meets MIL-C-16173E Estimated coverages 400 to 600 sq/ft per gallon.

 

I've used this stuff for years when working on aircraft. It's pretty good stuff but will not last that long on exposed underbody/frame that sees water spray. While it dries to a tough, tacky shell, light particles and fuzz-like stuff will stick to it. Sand and heavier stuff, for the most part, seems to not sick. I have found that if it goes on too heavy/thick, it cracks when drying, especially on joints with relative movement. It adheres great to bare steel but can bead up a little on really smooth or glossy coated surfaces. A second coat usually covers even the slickest surface. In hot environments it melts and will run off of vertical surfaces so places around the engine might not be good to use it. One good thing about it is that your can thin it way out with most solvents and spray it through a paint sprayer to coat larger surfaces evenly.