Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement? P0018 OBD Code

I have a 2006 Tacoma 6-speed. The check engine light is on and its throwing a P0018 code.. I know what the code is and all. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some insight on replacing the CPS.

From what I understand, the sensor is below the alternator. I've looked, but can't really see much without taking stuff loose. Can anyone tell me what needs to come off in order to get to it?

Thanks in advance...

 

From the field service manual it is behind the AC Compressor on the 4.0L engine.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR REMOVAL

1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.

2. REMOVE V-BANK COVER. ( Engine Cover )

3. REMOVE FAN SHROUD.

4. REMOVE GENERATOR ASSEMBLY. ( Alternator )

5. SEPARATE COOLER COMPRESSOR ASSEMBLY ( AC Compressor )

(a) Remove the bolt, then separate the suction hose sub-assembly.
(b) Disconnect the cooler compressor assembly connector.
(c) Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the cooler compressor assembly from the V-ribbed belt tensioner assembly.

6. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

(a) Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector.
(b) Remove the bolt, then remove the crankshaft position sensor.

INSPECTION

1. INSPECT CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
(a) Check the resistance.
(1) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals. Standard: 1850 to 2450 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
If the result is not as specified, replace the crankshaft position sensor.

 

So over the weekend, I replaced the crank sensor. My truck still has a rough idle at times and bucks like a mule when I accelerate slowly, mainly under a slight incline--both being the same symptoms it had before replacing the crank sensor. In addittion, I'm now getting three codes-p0018, p0018 (twice), and p0430. Any chance these two are related? Any suggestions on what to do next?

 

I think you have a mechanical timing issue and NOT a sensor issue. If you read the data for the DTC 0018 Code it says this:

P0018 - Deviations in crankshaft and camshaft position sensor 2 signals.

Trouble Area: • Mechanical system (Timing chain has jumped tooth or chain stretched) or the ECM.

** My words here: ( I highly doubt it is the ECM ).

This means that the Crankshaft and Camshaft timing sensors do not agree with each other on Bank # 2. This is usually a mechanical issue and could cause the conditions that you described. It could also cause the DTC Code 0430 as the engine is not running in time and possibly dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust system. This can ruin a Cat Converter BTW.

If the timing is off enough it could damage the engine by opening valves and have them crash into the pistons. I would not run it or drive it in this condition.


This is what is listed in the service manual for the DTC 0430 Code:

MONITOR DESCRIPTION
The ECM uses sensors mounted in front of and behind the Three-Way Catalytic Converter (TWC) to monitor its efficiency. The first sensor, the Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) sensor, sends pre-catalyst information to the ECM. The second sensor, the Heated Oxygen (HO2) sensor, sends post-catalyst information to the ECM. In order to detect any deterioration in the TWC, the ECM calculates the Oxygen Storage Capacity (OSC)
of the TWC. This calculation is based on the voltage output of the HO2 sensor while performing active airfuel ratio control, rather than the conventional detecting method, which uses the locus ratio. The OSC value is an indication of the oxygen storage capacity of the TWC. When the vehicle is being driven with a warm engine, active air-fuel ratio control is performed for approximately 15 to 20 seconds. When it is performed, the ECM deliberately sets the air-fuel ratio to lean or rich levels. If a rich-lean cycle of the HO2 sensor is long, the OSC becomes greater. There is a direct correlation between the OSCs of the HO2 sensor and the TWC. The ECM uses the OSC value to determine the state of the TWC. If any deterioration has occurred, it illuminates the MIL and sets a DTC.

P0430 Detection Conditions: - OSC value smaller than standard value under active air-fuel ratio control (2 trip detection logic).

Problem Areas:
• Gas leakage from exhaust system
• A/F sensor (bank 2 sensor 1)
• HO2 sensor (bank 2 sensor 2)
• Exhaust manifold (TWC)

HINT:
• Bank 1 refers to the bank that includes cylinder No. 1.
• Bank 2 refers to the bank that does not include cylinder No. 1.
• Sensor 1 refers to the sensor closest to the engine assembly.
• Sensor 2 refers to the sensor farthest away from the engine assembly.

Related DTCs :
P0420: Catalyst Deterioration
P0430: Catalyst Deterioration

Required Sensors/Components (Main) A/F sensor and heated oxygen sensor.

Required Sensors/Components (Related) Intake air temperature sensor, mass air flow meter, crankshaft position sensor and engine coolant temperature sensor.

 

How about an update!

 

I was under the impression that the 1GR-FE was a non-interference engine. Am I wrong?

 

Yesterday while in town, I cleared the codes once more. On the way home, I noticed that it began to miss (around the 50-60 mph range). The CEL was back on by the time I got to the house (a 4 mile drive). I checked it again when I got home and it was still throwing three codes--P0018 twice, and P0022 (Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Retarded Bank 2). I talked to a mechanic the other day and asked him if he thought it could have jumped time or have a stretched chain. He said he felt like if it had jumped time, then I would really know it by the way the truck ran. My truck only has 124K miles--isn't that a little soon to be having trouble with a timing chain anyway?

 

I'm really not positive on that, better safe than sorry.

 

It could also be an issue with the Variable Valve Timing Control. This is controlled by hydraulics on the intake valve cam shaft. Before you continue throwing parts at it it would be better to get it checked by the dealer, IMO.

 

It could also be an issue with the Variable Valve Timing Control. Here is what the service manual says:

P0022 - Retarded cam timing: With warm engine and engine speed of between 500 rpm and 4,000 rpm, all conditions (a), (b) and (c) met (2 trip detection logic)

(a) Difference between target and actual intake valve timings more than 5°CA (Crankshaft Angle) for 4.5 seconds

(b) Current intake valve timing fixed (timing changes less than 5°CA in 5 seconds)

(c) Variations in VVT controller timing 19°CA or less of maximum delayed timing (retarded)

Trouble Areas:
• Valve timing
• Oil control valve (OCV)
• OCV filter
• Camshaft timing gear assembly
• ECM

 

Too bad you are not a little closer to me. Map shows a little over 2 hours to get to my shop. Lost of good information from Jimmyh. What would help the most is getting a scan tool hooked up so that we could look at the freeze frame data. The thought of VVT being an issue is a high likelihood. Questions to ask you at this point: When was your last oil change? Did you get the correct viscosity/type of oil? Is your oil level correct?

 

I actually dropped it off at a dealer last night here in town. I'm anxious to find out what the deal is.

BamaToy1997--I bought this truck not too long ago and haven't changed the oil yet. I actually bought the oil and filter a couple days before all this started. The oil level is correct however. By your questions though, are you thinking dirty oil could be part of the problem?

 

Oil breaks down over time. As it breaks down it looses viscosity, and lubricating ability. All of this can affect systems like VVT. Not saying that it is 100% your issue, but when I was at the dealership and there was a problem with any of the oil-controlled systems, the first thing we did was changed the oil.

 

Please let us know the verdict when you get it back!

Thanks!

 

The dealership I took it to here in town was a Dodge/GM, not Toyota. They hooked it up to the scan tool and he told me that it was out of time, no doubt. Said it could either be the ECM or a stretched chain. Looks like what you said, Jimmyh, was right. However, that dealership didn't want to fool with replacing it. Said I would need to take it to a Toyota delearship. Anybody got any idea what it's gonna cost to get this replaced and put back in time? This guy told me they would probably charge close to $1300 just for labor. I plan on making some phone calls today, just thought I'd get y'all's opinion too.

 

I can't swear to this, but the information I have learned is that most Toyota dealerships in Alabama are between $100 to $120 per hour. The job lists as a flat rate of 11.7 hours (Most every shop uses flat rate) So you would be looking at around $1170-$1400 in labor. You may be able to find lower rates at dealerships up there.

That being said, I have a lower labor rate at my shop because I have a much lower overhead than the dealerships. Doing just the chain itself is a bad idea. What has most likely happened, if your chain has truly jumped a tooth, is that a hydraulic tensioner has gone bad, allowing slack to develop. That slack and jumping of the chain can also result in chipped gears. Whenever I do timing chains I always say the best way to do it is the RIGHT way. That is replace the entire timing system. This means that I replace all 3 chains in the front of the engine, all 3 of the tensioners, all the guides, and all the gears (sprockets). My total cost for the entire job, including parts, labor, and sales tax, (out the door price) is just under $1100 on a 2006 Tacoma 4.0 engine.

Do your research and check around for prices. If my price works for you, and you can get her down here, I will take good care of her for you.

 

That's a good price for that much work.
Take it to Bama's shop where you know the job will be done right.

 

Are they positive it's an issue with the timing?

My truck (2006 | 4.0L | 85,000 Miles) just started doing something similar. I noticed it was vibrating as I slowed to a stop - this only happens after the truck has been sitting (cold soak) and it only happens the first time I come to a stop. After that it runs fine with no vibration - it doesn't even happen every time the truck has had a cold soak - it is very intermittent. It finally threw code P0016 the other day, so after a little research a went ahead and changed the oil (it was coming due anyway) and checked the CMP Sensors (VVT controllers) for any sludge build up - both sensors looked clean when I pulled them. For troubleshooting purposes I actually swapped the location of the two CMP sensors to see if any future codes would switch banks.

The truck drove fine for a day or two and then today I felt a little vibration when coming to the stop sign at the end of my street and the light came back on - this time with code P0011. After doing some research on this code, I quickly came back with quite a few other threads on this forum with owners having the same symptoms I have been having- the culprit in their situation was one of the Oil Control Valve's.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/244070-85000-miles-engine-code-p0011.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/267350-engine-code-p0011-help.html

The codes on my truck indicate it is the passenger side bank that has been the culprit, so tonight I am going to pull the OCV on that side to check for damage/build-up and clean its screen. If the problem comes back after cleaning the sensor and I get the same code (P0011) I am going to replace the OCV on my passenger side.

Not sure if my problem is close enough to your problem or not...but just wanted to pass on some additional info that may be helpful.

 

^^^^ Very helpful advice there! You should look into that before you go spending too much money.

 

I took it to a Toyota dealer over the weekend-just to get it checked out. They're supposed to run diagnostics on it and see what they think about it. If in fact it is out of time, I may have to bring it to you, BamaToy. Hopefully I'll know something here pretty soon.