Crank but no start code: P0335

I am working on a friends 2010 Tacoma with the 1GR-FE V6 and it has a no start condition. The truck will crank but has no spark at the plugs. I verified this visually by pulling and grounding a plug. I also did a compression test and all cylinders where is spec so not a broken timing chain.

The only code the truck has is P0335 which is for the crankshaft position sensor circuit having a fault.

The crankshaft position sensor was replaced by a mobile mechanic and it did not fix the issue.

So has anyone here had this same issue? Does anyone have or know where to get access to wiring diagrams for the crankshaft position sensor circuit?

Also what is the likelihood that the reluctor wheel (timing wheel) has cracked or slipped? I thought it was pressed onto the crankshaft?

Thanks in advance!

 

@Dm93

 

That was very entertaining, however, not very helpful lol!

 

Calm down newb, he tagged a member who can help you. Be patient

 

Actually, you will find in the end that it was very helpful. What tcjacado did was tag a user who is a fantastic diagnostician. @Dm93 will see that he was tagged, and know to come read this message thread.

Do you know whether your friend’s no-start problem started immediately when the check engine light came on, or could that perhaps be unrelated?

 

Just trying to help and the best person I know to do that is....

 

According to my friend, the truck had been running fine but one morning he tried to start it and let off the key to soon and it didn't start. He tried starting it again and all the truck will do is crank.

I tested all of the engine bay fuses and relays and all were good. I also connected a battery charger up to the battery to make sure it would turn the engine over fast enough to make the ECU happy, but that did not work.

 

Thanks! I really do appreciate it.

 

If the truck has an immobilizer (blinking security light on dashboard), the first thing to check is whether that light stops blinking when the key is inserted into the ignition. If not, that is certainly the culprit. If your friend has a second key, have him try that one to see if the sensor is not reading the chip in the one he’s now using.

The immobilizer will let you crank the engine until the cows come home, but the engine will not start unless it detects a valid chip in the key.

 

Just chill, Rome wasn't built in a day.

 

The 4.0L will not run without a crank sensor signal so no surprise you have no spark.

I'm assuming since you asked for a wiring diagram you haven't checked wiring integrity between the crank sensor and PCM?

Do you have an oscilloscope?

Wiring diagram and PCM pinout attached below, PCM is behind the glovebox near the right kick panel.

 

I Just bought a Pico 2204a scope with leads and back pin probes. I have not done any ohms checks on the crank sensor wiring yet, but with the diagrams you have provided I will be doing that.

I have never used an oscilloscope so it will be a little bit of a learning curve getting readings correctly I would assume.

The crankshaft position sensor is a AC signal generator type correct? Which means it does not get power from the ECU to work as it generates its own signal?

 

Nice, I have known good cam and crank signal waveforms. I have some taken on a SnapOn scope posted in the thread below but I also have Pico captures I can send you tonight when I get home.
4.0L Scope Captures | Tacoma World

I can help you if you need it although it will be later tonight as I'm at work right now.

Correct the crank sensor is a VRS type and makes it's own voltage, the Cam sensors are Hall Effect type and need a 5v reference.

 

Thank you

 

Dm93 and tcjacado thank you both for the help. The truck is an hour from me and I might not get to working on it for a few days but I will keep you updated on what I find. I may have some scope operation questions soon. I'm going to take some wave form readings on my Toyota Prius just to get a hang of how the Pico scope works.

Thanks again!

 

I'll do what I can, the Pico is still relatively new to me too. I don't get to use scopes as much as I'd like to and I use my SnapOn more than the Pico cause it's more convenient.

Always good to play with it on a known good vehicle too to get the hang of it.
I don't think 2204a gets access to the Pico Automotive software or waveform database but the scope itself should be similar to the 4 channel automotive scope.

If you wana get a good head start and you have time watch Paul Danner's picoscope basics playlist.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAFYVCyenqcq_KYGX7akE0sL1MjeprsuL&si=ZMgDew-DuyViRnar

 

So I finally made it out to my buddies house and took some readings with the Pico tool, however, the night before I drove up there my friend tried to starting and it fired right up. It didn't run well and was missing but it did start.


I took the following attached snap shots of the crank and cam timing.




It looks to me like the timing is fine. The truck ran poorly the whole time as it would miss and stumble.


The even crazier part of this is that the next morning my buddy tried starting the truck again and it died and wouldn't start again.

The truck also has the following codes now;

P0113- Intake Air temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

P0300-Random Multiple Cylinder Misfire detected

P0335- Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit

P0171- System Too Lean Bank #1

P0353- Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit

P0356- Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit


Due to these codes and the engine seeming to be running lean and not getting fuel we pulled the fuel tank and took a look at the fuel pump. The pre filter on the bottom of the pump was dirty and after removing the electric pump from the pump assembly very black dirty fuel leaked out of the primary filter.

So we replaced the fuel pump and unfortunately the truck still would not start. Then the next day buddy tries to start it just to see what happens and it started right up, although it was still misfiring.


So I am at a loss here. I feel like this either is a loose wiring issue in the harness, corroded harness or a failing ECM. Or I am just not diagnosing the issue correctly from the evidence.

 

I'll have to look at this better later but those look ok, did you check the other cam sensor?
Were these taken at the PCM?
Do you save the waveforms?
The other codes may be a separate issue, the P035x codes will cause a misfire on those cylinders as the PCM disables the fuel injector on any cylinder with a coil circuit code.
See the post below for a better description of the P035x codes and the IGF circuit.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-information-diagnostics.784008/#post-28042157

 

I followed the guide from the FSM you sent me and back probed the connector at the ECU, Pin (E9-9, VV1+) for the first cam sensor and then (E9-12, VV2+) for the second cam sensor. The crank sensor I also back probed at the ECU connector (E9-6, NE+). So unless there are more than two camshaft sensors the images I attached are both camshaft sensors checked against the crankshaft sensor.

All reading were taken at the ECU connector to get two birds with one stone so to speak and verify the wiring harness was also good.

I'm not sure what saving wave forms means? I saved the readings I took in the Pico program? Is that what you mean?

Also the I ohms checked the old crankshaft position sensor and it read 2.04 K ohms. Is that in spec for one of these sensors.

 

Yes, I was wondering if you could stick them in a zip file and post them.

I'm not sure but it looks like it's making a good signal so...