Contractor Shell Compatibility Question

Hey all,

I know the 2nd gen / 3rd gen camper shell compatibility questions have been asked on this forum to no end.. but here I am with another.

Looking at a "contractor" shell from a 2nd gen tacoma. Aluminum, A.R.E shell that requires you to remove the tailgate. Thinking this would fit me 3rd gen just fine, correct?

Seems like the biggest issue with fitment comes with the 2nd gen tailgate being shaped differently then the 3rd gen tailgate. But If the tailgate is being removed, then it should fit fine?

Shell like the photo below:

 

Almost all trucks taper from cab to gate.
You'll need a tape measure and be really good with it. LOL
Zim

 

Nope, 3rd gen bedsides are about 1 inch higher
You’d have a gap under the rear door

could you make it work? Probably, but it’s not gonna fit right without doing something

 

Got it, thanks for the responses everyone.

 

I've had three used ARE DCU contractor work caps over the years, none a perfect fit. The side doors are a lifesaver for grabbing tools and reaching tiedowns.
If you are handy it's not hard to stainless pop rivet square aluminum tubing to close in tailgate or door gap. Have done both and finished with EPDM tape. Have replaced entire dual door panel with swing up tailgate panel as well. Two bolts and it hinges up and slides laterally out.

I don't like the scant four thin machine screws mounted to the tacoma siderails.
Shear a screw with a load of lumber on top and the cap could come loose.
Twice now I've supplemented the dcu aluminum flatstock mounts with one more ea side and one more centered in front. Welded flatstock to dcu frame.

Prior to the newer tacoma siderail mount system, I ran 1/4x4 aluminum flatstock** all around top of bed, glued and stainless screwed to top of bedsides. This gave me a level surface to clamp cap to with removable clamps.

Cretins have tried to force the locking door handles at least twice. They are cast and thankfully broke. Older replacements unavailable so drilled out center rod they mount on to accept a brass sacrificial throughbolt securing noname handles.... and now carry a spare.

The 1 inch square tube lumber rack stock is thin crap and I've rewelded broken welds all over and welded in gussets plates. Same at rear panel upper corners above door.

Hope there's some useful info here if you consider adapting a good deal.

**important to isolate against bimetallic reactions!

 

@bkress37 any chance you made any more progress on this?

actually looking at doing the opposite right now- putting a 3rd gen cap with dual doors on a 2nd gen. Just having a hard time finding fitment or an overall length for the 2nd gen cap.