Continuing issue with my 2tr-fe

Hello all,
In the continuing saga of fixing my truck...
Soo I guess it was about two weeks ago now my coolant tempature sensor started going out on my truck and I had a couple issues while replacing it... namely the coolant bypass pipe broke and I ordered a metal replacement and waited for it to arrive and then when finishing putting it together the ventilation tube off the manifold split open and the engine was running weird and would stall out..
I ordered a new one and it arrived and I mounted it today and the truck started at first.. kind of idling hard.. I let it run for awhile and then when I went to put it in drive it stalled out..
I've checked all the connects I can think of and were suggested to me...
Any idea what it could be or anything specifically I should check for?
Any help is appreciated

EDIT:
Some additional info.. I tried driving it around the block.. it smelled like burning something awful...no smoke.. and it wouldn't get much over 15mph at first and then more like 10mph

 

Is the check engines light on?
Do you have access to a scan tool?

Even a cheaper one should give you some ideas.
Check the MAF g/s, Fuel Trims, and Coolant Temp just to start.

 

In the video in your previous thread it looked like the engine had a dead misfire, are you sure you didn't cross any injector or coil wires or miss a gasket when you had the intake off?
Was the truck running fine prior to the work you did?

 

I can't say for certain that I didn't do any of that.. I don't think I missed a gasket when I had the intake off.. the truck ran great before.. :/

 

So previously the check engine light came on and I scanned it at Autozone.. came back coolant temp sensor..
the check engine light is now blinking. :/ I'll try and get it scanned today.

 

Blinking check engine light is usually caused by multiple misfires.
I’d do as @Dm93 suggested and check my coil and injector wires..

 

I just got codes pulled and it came back with all this.. coil 3 misfire being the 'main' one..
I pulled codes previously and the only one that came back was the coolant temp sensor.. is there a possibility I damaged my wiring harness?
Should I replace my 3rd coil or is there something else you would suggest?

 

I wouldn't get too exited about all those codes just yet, it's possible the key got turned on while you had a bunch of stuff unplugged.
You could move the #3 coil to a different cylinder, clear the codes, and see if the misfire follows it.

 

Do what he said ^^^

If the code remains, check the plug.
Or move the plug to a different cylinder other than the one you swaped the coil with.
For instance, if you swapped #3 coil with #4 coil. Move #3 the spark plug to #1 cylinder. 1 cylinder spark plug to #3 cylinder.
But, just swap the coil first and see what happens.

 

Thanks for all this.. question.. what way are the coils ordered? Is one in the back or the front?

 

Lets take a step back...you pulled the intake...why? Did you use a new gasket? Did you disconnect injectors, and if so did you number them so that they would go back correctly? What exactly did you remove? You either have an intake leak, an injector not firing, or a plug not firing. I doubt if a coil pack would just "crap out", especially if the engine was running well just prior to you working on it. You did something.

 

1234 front to back.

 

To replace the coolant temperature sensor. No I didn't replace the gasket. I didnt disconnect injectors.
I removed/partially removed the resonator box, throttle body, disconnected enough of the wiring harness to remove the manifold, disconnected fuel lines, detached the trans dipstick, and removed the intake manifold.
I also ended up replacing the coolant bypass pipe and ventilation tube off the back of the manifold because they were both rotten.

 

Just prior to trading in my Ford truck I cleaned the throttle body and forgot to re-connect the MAP sensor. It ran like crap almost from the start and I got no more than out the driveway before re-checking my work. As soon as that was plugged back in the truck was 100%. Sometimes a big problem is a small simple issue.

 

It's been a debacle, all started with a coolant temp sensor replacement gone bad:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...temperature-sensor-2tr-fe-2006-tacoma.757076/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/big-snafu-need-help-assessing.757746/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/aggregating-solid-opinions-on-course-of-action.757801/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/where-does-this-connect.758238/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2tr-fe-throttle-body-hose-assistance.758242/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/engine-hard-idling-and-stalling-out.758974/

I have a suspicion too that a connector possibly got swapped but figured we would rule out a coil or plug issue first before digging too deep.

 

I would re-check the wiring harness and ensure all sensors are properly plugged in. And look (or listen) for any intake leaks.

 

Ok.. I switched #3 coil with #1 and reset and started it up and waited for a check engine light.. (because the first time I tried it didn't throw a DTC)..
Now it is throwing p0300.. which is multiple cylinder misfire..

 

I kind of was afraid that would happen.
1 and 3 are next to each other in the firing order.
It would help to have a scan tool and see what cylinder is missing more.

@Dm93 might have other suggestions.

 

You could do a cylinder drop test by unplugging the coils one at a time with the engine running and see which ones are contributing just be aware you may set coil circuit codes doing that.

 

I just bought a scan tool.. a cheapie tho.. do I need a nicer one to do that?