Considering 1/2" Bora wheel spacers for stance, but concerned about bearings

I'm thinking about adding 1/2" Bora wheel spacers for a slightly wider stance. I did read that spacers can be hard on wheel bearings so I wanted to keep it subtle with 1/2". What is the option on this? I'm a new Tacoma owner learing about this. My main mods I'm looking at doing are the KD max tune, TRD Lift and the 1/2" Bora wheel spacers.

 

1/2” will be fine, any amount of spacer will add bearing wear but the math shows it’s such a small amount it will likely never matter. You will need longer wheel studs to run 1/2”, and most studs are an inch longer than stock which means you’ll be cutting them all after install.

Personally, it’s a bit of a headache and I would just leave well enough alone and skip the spacers. If you insist on it, you can do it and it shouldn’t hurt the bearings enough to matter.

 

Do they even make a 1/2" spacer (Bora) I thought smallest was 3/4" (.75) for Tacoma.

 

They make them down to .25" from what I can see on the website

 

Those require longer studs, and don't believe they are hub centric. I would go with .75 that bolt on, using existing studs, and have new studs pressed in spacers. No need to trim oem studs, because factory wheels have pockets between stud holes. They are much better and safer than slip on. As well you won't have wheel to hub alignment issues.

 

Good point thank you!

 

Can you do the math for us?

 

I could, but I won’t.

 

Why?

 

Would .25" spacers require longer studs?

 

Yes. Plus like mentioned I don't think they are hub centric.

 

It says on the website they are built hub centric only

 

LOL He’s one of those internet experts folks. Just take his word on it.

 

The way your post came off is exactly why I won’t. Jeff lange has done the calculations here multiple times, go look that up. I don’t need to do it.

 

I’ve got a set of those 1/4” for sale if interested. Much cheaper and quicker than getting them from motor-sport tech which took like a month and cost nearly $200.

 

Ok, but what's a

.25" going to do for you? Sounds like a waste. You won't even see/notice .25. Just go .75.

 

So, the problem is that the wheel mating surface on the hub interlocks with the wheels. When you add a thin spacer like the slip on, the spacer is hub centric on the wheel bearing, but now the wheel does not have a hub to lock onto and is now stud centric which can cause some concentricity issues as well as safety considerations.

Going with a thicker spacer that has a machined hub for the wheel is the best bet.

Bora and spidertrax both offer quality spacers with machined hubs.

 

T=F*L

Load assumption: static

GVWR of my DCLB is 5600 lbs and lets assume a 60/40 weight split = 3360 F and 2240 R

The wheel mating surface is approximately 6" outboard of the centerline of the bearing which results in approximately 1690 ft lbs F and 1120 ft lbs R.

If you add a 1.25 spacer (like I did) you would get approximately 2100 ft lbs F and 1400 ft lbs R.

You see much more dynamic load than these numbers every time you hit a pot hole at more than 20 mph. This is also the simplest (and least accurate) way to approximate the load difference and makes a lot of assumptions, generalizations, and simplifications because ... its the internet and I dont care to prove either of you wrong.

The change in load is not negligible, but its also not significant considering the safety factor with which components are manufactured and the expected operating ranges of the components. Will they wear faster? Of course, but likely not by a significant amount.

 

Awesome, thank you. Appreciate some thought out info rather than the typical regurgitated statements people so often throw out here.

 

Do it.