Considerations when replacing catalytic converter

I have a 2006 Tacoma (base, 2.7 L, L4) with 373K miles. The catalytic converter has gone bad (material has melted and broken off with rattling around, loss of vehicle performance, threw the related P0420 catalyst system efficiency code, etc.).

I am looking at replacing it with the MagnaFlow HM Grade Direct-Fit Catalytic Converter, which looks like an easy repair as the assembly bolts on. I am not in a state with emissions tests.

Are there any other considerations when replacing a converter that need to be kept in mind related to O2 sensors or anything that may need calibration? (I also may want to put a guard on it considering it's a shiny new piece and maybe now a target for theft as well.)

Thank you for any input.

 

Should just bolt on and go. Can't calibrate o2 sensors and shouldn't be a need to. If you don't have a way to clear the code, it should clear itself once it reads normal values again w/ the new cat.

 

Have the O2s ever been replaced?

If not, at that mileage it's worth considering.

 

When faced with this project on my 2012, and considering all options, I found the walker brand to be the best deal by far.

Magnaflow is a performance brand. When I think of "Walker" I think decent OEM replacement.

This looks to be less than 1/2 the price of what you posted? Also the picture looks different....but Walker probably makes a replacement for your truck. They do for mine.

$243 Walker Ultra EPA 52451 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-52451-Direct-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B0049J74YS

 

^Yeah 52451 is the RH rear cat on V6 models. Hell, rear cats are unmonitored. It isn't a bolt-on fit for @ides98 's 4-cyl.

The 4-cyl front and rear cats are a single unit. P/N is 54702 (~$335 + shipping):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2598764&cc=1433241&pt=5808&jsn=412

$788 Walker Ultra EPA 54702 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-54702-Direct-Catalytic-Converter/dp/B0049JCFKQ

@ides98 will likely need new gaskets and new bolts. The downstream O2 sensor is probably well rusted in the bung and possibly won't survive a transfer to the new pipe, so a new O2 sensor is advisable. Downstream sensors are relatively cheap, under $50:
2WD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1607108&cc=1433241&pt=5132
4WD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=991871&cc=1433241&pt=5132
^I think the difference between the two are just in the harness length. So the 4WD version should work in 2WD models if you just tie up the excess wire. Don't buy O2 sensors from Amazon or eBay due to rampant counterfeiting.

 

Thanks for all this good advice. Is there a good diagram that shows where the downstream O2 sensor is located? Is it advisable to switch out the upstream one, too? I'm going to do some more research on diagrams after work today but thought I'd ask in case anyone had easy access to the info. Really appreciate it.

 

1) you dont live in Comifornia or the likes so you may be o.k. smog wise
2) you most likely will get the po420/430 low efficiency code with an aftermarket depending on your particular demands on your system. Aftermarket cats use less metals andd cant store as much o2 for high demand times. That along with Toyotas over stringent c.a.r.b. standards = po420/430. The cure is to run good o2 extenders. It "numbs" the readings to a realistic realm.

 

I've had good luck with Magnaflow cats as a "cheaper" alternative to oem on domestic trucks. Haven't used them on toyota yet.

OEM will always be best, anything less than that and you risk a returning CEL.

Yes replace the gaskets so you don't introduce an exhaust leak

 

You'll see it when you are under the truck. It's in the pipe you're removing, thus

At your mileage *I* would.

 

I agree with everyone saying to buy new sensors, it's the smart move.

If you find the aftermarket cat doesn't do the job/ it still throws codes, consider adding a minicat to the downstream sensor, I've got 2 dead cats but a couple $50 mini cats are keeping me CEL free.

 

Downstream sensor goes in the bung between the front cat and the rear cat. I wouldn't touch the upstream sensor unless it's bad, just because of potential for collateral damage (exhaust manifold, etc.) with all the rust. The upstream sensor is also quite a bit more expensive.

 

Awesome, really appreciate everyone's input. Ordering parts tonight.

 

Yeah, I was going to say sensors -- whether they are still good or not, they may be tough to get out. Might as well just refresh the whole thing.

 

The last time I had to replace a converter I ordered a non-CA compliant from Canada (eBay), which worked just fine and was like 1/3 of the cost of what the parts stores wanted. That was not a taco, but nevertheless it pays to shop around.