Compustar CM900-AS Remote Start Install 2004 Toyota Tacoma

Hey first gen owners,

My first post to TW...but definitely have been reading a ton...Thanks for all those who contribute wisdom to the forum.

I wanted to take a moment to describe my installation of a Compustar CM900-AS remote start in my 04 Tacoma. Ultimately fairly simple, but now I understand when others just recommend going to a professional. They can be pretty complex. I probably have 20 hours in reading and researching this project.

For some background - today's modern remote start installations are generally using t-harness kits, which allow a plug and play installation. There is no such kit for the first gen Tacoma, so more wires must be spliced. My recommendation is to buy the factory service manual wiring diagram. This book is immensely helpful and worth its weight in gold. I never trust what someone writes in a forum, always verify.

I purchased a kit for the Compustar CM900-AS which came with:
-CM900 control module
-1LCD remote, 1 standard remote
-CNI Ignition wiring harness, CNIII Input/output harness.
-Siren
-Shock Sensor
-LED Indicator Light
-Antenna
-Hood pin

A remote start can be boiled down to these main components:

1. Ignition - This set of connections must be made to the ignition harness switch found under the dash. There is an 8 pin connector (only 6 are used) which must be spliced into. I built a custom t-harness for this connection using the Compustar CNI harness provided in the kit.

2. Door lock/unlock - This set of connections from the Compustar CNIII harness is made to the 22 pin connector (1L) on the front of the body ECU, also under the dash. These seem to be all grounded wires, meaning if they are grounded, the circuit is complete and the function is activated. There are many valuable wires on this connector having to do with parking lights, door lock/unlock, door switches, etc. For my purpose I only needed to splice into 3 wires for door lock, door unlock, and parking light out. It is possible to connect to the TVIP harness, if your vehicle is equipped, but I found it easier to connect to the 22 pin connector.

3. Alarm - My kit came with a siren, shock sensor, and there are many pins from the Compustar CNIII having to do with alarm and security. The install is made far easier by eliminating all these components. In fact I depinned all these wires from CNIII. Afterall, no one cares when a car alarm goes off anyway…The control module has slots for the BLADE-AL (CNII) and Lock Harness (CNIV), but neither of these harnesses came with the kit and are not required for the remote start to function.

4. Ancillary connections - Additional connections must be made for the hood pin, horn, brake switch, and tachometer for tach sensing mode.

INSTALL:

CNI Ignition harness:


The ignition harness (Compustar CNI) must be connected at the ignition switch under the dash. This is an 8 pin connector (connector part number 90980-11615) of which only 6 pins are used. I built a t-harness for this connection using a blank set of connectors and pins from AliExpress. All of the connections are found in the diagram below. The control module was installed and grounded in the drivers footwell. Of note, I connected the starter wire through the FT-ELOCK relay for antigrind and starter kill security features. In the wiring diagram, one can see existing starter wire is split, such that power to the starter from the ignition switch is run through the FT E-LOCK relay. The Compustar starter output wire is connected upstream (ignition switch side). The ground pin (Pin 85) of the E-LOCK relay is connected to Pin 18 of CNIII (-) Starter kill output. Power to the FT E-LOCK relay coil (Pin 86) is provided via an ignition powered wire off the ignition harness. In this configuration, the relay is only powered when ignition is on, and the engine and remote start will only function when the alarm is not armed. When the alarm is armed, Pin 87a is off and Pin 87 is on, which dead ends. If pin 86 is connected to constant 12V it might kill the battery in a couple of days.









CNIII Input/output harness:


The door lock/ and unlock connections are made to the 22 pin connector on the front of the body ECU under the dash along with the parking light output.



The horn output is found on the TVIP connector B (pin 12, green/red). One could also use connector 1E (black wire, 12 pin connector) on the back of the body ECU but I found it difficult to access this wire.



The hood pin was installed using an existing hole in the fender and wire run through the firewall.



The stop or brake light switch is found above the brake pedal (pin 1, green/white).



The tachometer wire is found at Connector IK2 (pin 11, light green/black) on top of the glove box. The default is to start using voltage sense wherein the vehicle will terminate starter output once it can appreciate a bump in voltage from the alternator. Tach sensing mode is more precise and uses a direct connection to the engine to prevent starter grinding and improve likelihood of starting.



The GWA (CNIII, pin 18) output is connected to pin 85 of the FT E-LOCK relay.

The antenna was attached behind the rearview mirror. The wire was run under the roof panel and behind the trim to the footwell where the control module was secured.



The LED indicator light was installed on the fuse panel cover plate.




I was thrilled to see the truck start up on its first attempt. I hope this serves as a valuable resource to others who follow!

 

How timely I was just thinking of buying one of these for my old Corolla to warm it up before my commute.

 

It's worth it in cold weather climates. I'm in Alaska and it has been -20-30F this week. If you install in your Corolla, I'd recommend reviewing this article. There are many similarities between the Camry and Tacoma wiring, and presumably Corolla as well.
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=143770