Composite + 80/20 Wedge Camper Build

I first noticed the Go Fast Camper and though it was pretty kick azz about a year ago. Poking around I came across the @Ripcord concept of using 80/20 extrusion and off the shelf materials (thanks man, really, you had it right and I studied your posts many times). Building that looked like a great idea and a fun (gulp) way to spend the last 4 months. 80/20 is very straight, stiff and easy to work with and the rest of it (sewing/welding) I could do well enough.

This part the DIY crowd wont like.... I had a dozen carbon fiber composite floor panels taking up space in my garage for the last 10 years and wanted to use them for something amazing and this was going to be it. If you are curious, these are similar to McGill Gillfab aerospace material. Making it all work the way I wanted and joining them into wide panels was a bit of an undertaking.

I’ll be sure to post more when I have time! Enjoy!


First trip. Mountains above San Luis Obispo CA. We went to Tahoe, Eureka then to the south coast.


Beach camp near Santa Cruz CA

I have 45 deg corner gussets from T-slots for the lower frame but they got tied up in the machine shop. I bought 1.5”x1.5” L-angle 6061-T72 alum which was about .120 thick, cut to 4.5”, drilled and worked fine.

The cab clearance is 1.7” from the frame bolt head and the paint. Nervous (gulp) but it was just fine. MPG was 19 MPG, about the same as normal. Most importantly, I had no wind noise!!!


The upper frame is 50x100 (I agreed that is a good size) and the bed platform about 47x78. The lift is a major bonus. I found lateral struts on the space frame sides unnecessary with the gussets (my truck will probably stay stock) and the fiberlam bed panel, so stiff no center support necessary. LOVED having full access to bags on the sides.

Wiring still in work but there will be lights under the doors (you can run wires inside the fiberlam panels). Also those goose neck reading lights (red/white) will be nice.


Composite panels (not done painting yet), alum hinges, 1.5x1.5 steel frame with 3/16 gussets.



This is so nice especially when 6 feet up off the ground.



Full open. Still need to add the 2nd lifter on the side doors and do some painting (winter projects)


With the bed platform up, you can throw bags on the panel above the cab and move things around while standing normally, which was very comfortable. Loved that. Crouching and moving bags around while hitting your head was something I wanted to avoid.


This is the “ceiling”, back side of the roof panel with potted inserts for the Keder rails. I had to mill the t-slot to .400” wide to fit the panel into it with a bit of sealant( although it was a really snug fit, was probably unnecessary). This way, no fasteners were needed to attach the t-slot frame to the fiberlam panel.


Cut off the antenna was easy. Cover was a piece of CFRP skin from one of my panels. Sanded smooth and painted after cure.


I made 6 mount plates from 1/8 cold rolled steel stock. Attached with bolts to recessed weld nuts on the space frame and the tonneau mount holes which made me nervous, but worked great. In reality, you will have another major problem before those shear.

I used black 3mm MaxMetal for the panel above and behind the cab in the interest of time made from svg files I emailed to Fast Signs. Worked fine. Never seen that stuff before and first impression, it was heavy (I know, hard to compare to carbon fiber panels) and the skins were a soft aluminum which can gouge easily. I tried it Personally, I would try to find something different for the doors, but with stiffeners, it looks like that works good.


This is the rear “plug” to be hinged at the rear with a lifter later. We sorta used it on our trip at night, don’t really need it, but installing it with the tent closed keeps the fabric out of the way and still closes up easily.


Using the Shaper Origin to cut the Southco latches. The panel is a combination of fiberglass (outermost layer) and three layers of carbon fiber with a Nomex honeycomb core (about 0.400 inch thick total. VERY light and stiff.


Bent up some cold rolled steel rod to make these bed supports and ring hooks. Drilled holes and welded in place. Looked like a good idea and easy to keep sharp edges under control.



Building the space frame. Agree, a welding fixture was necessary, mostly to figure out the angles/dimensions. I didn’t trust my cad files. I think the fwd slant was 6 deg and the rear double that, about 13 deg. That aligned with the rear window and “looked correct” aesthetically for a “raked” look from the side. The sides also slant in 13 deg so the rear corners look correctly designed. That turned out to be the proper dimension for the 2019 bed and using the 50x100” frame. There is only 1 inch clearance to the rear window which is fine. The front cab clearance is 1.7” (which made me nervous) but the whole thing is so damn stiff it only flexes 1/4 inch up/down at the front.

Nobody asked me if I made the camper as it looks “store bought”. Haha.


Another Shaper project. The OEM bed caps suck (agree with the posts/research I did). Aluminum?... I could do better. I bought a full sheet of 0.5” black King Starboard and created svg cut files for the router. I made templates cutting a thin sheet of plywood door skin, adjusting the file until it was correct. Then I cut the LH (mirror of the RH) and the did the same for the top of the tailgate, along with that lower piece which attaches with the OEM locations. Made small aluminum .25” blocks, tapped them, and installed with CS titanium screws from the top, about 8, for each side piece. Teflon tape on the beds painted surface and the Alum mount blocks let the new rails move a bit (if they need to) to account for how much Starboard thermally shifts.

The tailgate pieces have lots of “lightening” slots cut on the back side to get the weight down (it opens a bit faster now, this stuff is heavy. Imagine a waffle). These two parts are attached together with long stainless CS screws. So far, works great and camper sits very tight keeping flexing very low.

 

It took me a minute to see that your tent has very large screen openings.
Very cool

 

I really like a lot of the changes you made, came out great! Very jealous of the materials you had available.

 

Looks great, would love to do something like this some day.

 

New bed caps:

This may be interesting. I want to take the camper on and off from time to time and also want to fire-n'-forget about the bed caps. The OEM ones were not really designed for anything other than maybe stepping on with soft slippers. I needed something for firm mounting of the frame and that would last long and not ruin the paint. I couldn't find anything other than aluminum caps online, which I didn't like so I made these out of plastic.

My local plastic company (Professional Plastics) https://www.professionalplastics.com/ and I went back and forth a bit. I like Nylon and ABS. They recommended (and I had never heard of) King Starboard which is a high density polyethylene (HDPE) used for boats. Boats are in the sun and wet all the time so that sounded like a good idea. It is high density for sure... bring a friend to pick it up! You can look at the data sheets online but I settled on 1/2 inch although a little thinner would probably also have worked, but not to create the L-joint I made on the tailgate. https://www.kingplastic.com/products/king-starboard/

To do this, I created a file in Corel for the Origin router. The machine will know how to cut the file you load based on the color you make the lines and filled areas (below) if you want or you just make them all black and select it on the tool before you cut. You can WiFi your file to the machine in the shop if it is plugged in which is handy. I just received the Workstation they sell and need to try that out. https://www.shapertools.com/en-us/

I am not sure how you would do this another way, maybe do all the cutting with a jigsaw & belt sander + hand tools. The plastic is lovely to work with but $250 for a 54"x96" sheet (hence the templates!)

Enjoy!




My cut files looked a bit like this. After I cut the tailgate pieces I came back and cut all these pockets about 0.25 inch deep to get the weight down. The tailgate is pretty heavy already. Maybe I can crank up the tension on the spring?





I used a thin piece of plywood as sacrificial templates. I ended up making 6 of them till I got the file accurate enough for cutting the plastic. Did the same for the tailgate.




Here you can see the first file and the black lines that were transferred from the truck (this corner was tricky). I then measured the template and adjusted the cut file. First time doing this .



We used some thin double back tape to hold the parts on a scrap piece of plywood while they were being cut at half depth, then full depth passes. The blue tape was holding the optical guide Shaper Tape because it didn't stick very good to the plastic which has a nice texture to it. If the tape moves ever so slightly after you scan it, that causes problems so take the tape seriously




This is how we cut the parts. After an optical scan, you create a grid with the tool bit to align it to the panel (so the tool, the panel and your cut file all are synced up. It is really fast and easy). They you drop your file and place it where you want on the plastic using the screen (which is a scanned image of the workspace) and the RH button. Then, just power up the spindle and press the green button on the right and follow the arrow. The tool drops to your exact Z depth and the X and Y are controlled by the machine as you go. If you hold the green button, it also precisely controls the feed rate of the bit. You just concentrate on watching the screen, like playing a video game. The button on the left retracts the bit and "pauses" the cutting progress whenever you want. I have found that if you have a flat work surface and a steady hand, it is extremely accurate. Ok, sounding like a commercial.

This pic is the 2nd full depth pass. Hard to see but the cut progress (the blue line) gets darker with the 2nd pass meaning, you were already there once before (for the first pass at half the depth).




Here are the rough cut parts. I ended up finishing them with a half round over bit on the conventional router and a hand file.



The tailgate work. I had a roll of teflon tape so I put that everywhere the plastic contacted the paint to keep the wear of the paint to a minimum.




These are the aluminum blocks after being cut, drilled and tapped. I added tape to also help keep paint wear down.



Ti screws. The rails were all drilled and countersinked with a piloted countersink and a microstop cage.



Looking up at the bottom of the bed rail. This one had to be flipped to fit but you get the idea. After taking off the wheels (we were adding air springs) and loosening the fender splash guards, the other person shined a light through the rail hole, held this block and then the other installed the screw. Took us maybe 20 minutes.



I made the tailgate a little longer so when I lay crap up against the truck it will (hopefully) not hit the paint. Also makes for a big solid flat surface. Slanted ever so slightly down so when parked level with the camper, water will (I hope) not run into the bed with the rear door closed but just run off.



I need to trim off that old tape I added for the old caps to keep them from rubbing the paint.

 

I’ve played with a Shaper Origin before. Super cool but not something I’d buy. We’ve got a MaSLOW 4x8 cnc at the makerspace. I’d love to exchange currency for those cut files

 

Amazing work! Great job!

 

That looks awesome!

 

Tent & Sewing:

I probably should have shared this first as this part of the project eluded me. The majority of what I did for the tent followed the @Ripcord posts for the DYI camper. Again, thank you sir. That was a really well thought out material list. I really liked the red fabric from the minute it arrived and recommend it. I also liked the waterproof zippers and bug screens. Super good quality stuff. Here is how I built it (while in a hurry for my trip with a lot of trial and error) and some of the changes I made.

Enjoy!


Red cationic 600D coated poly. Very nice material. Absolute joy to work with and no problems at all.



After cutting all the Keder rails for the top and bottom (I bought the 8' versions, bit more in shipping) I measured a length for the fabric across the back and both sides (50" + 100" + 100" + extra). I then found and marked the center of the fabric length and measured about 23" to the LH and RH on both the "top" and bottom. I then ironed & sewed a simple 1.0" fold over for the cord from the full weft (width) direction of the fabric. This establishes the widest opening of the tent which was plenty. I temporarily installed it in the frame. I installed the gas rods about 1.0" shorter to allow the fabric to be under a good stretch from the roof panel/ceiling assembly (as shown above) and the gas rod holding it tight. It looked really good and tight.



I then pulled the fabric forward on the LH and RH sides and made some very rough cuts, cutting off excess, allowing at lease an extra foot. I then installed the cord and rail as shown, temporarily mounted them all to the LH and RH top and bottom of the frame. So now you can pull the fabric (they is loose in the Keder rail) tight sitting on the inside of the tent. This is a very satisfying moment as it takes shape. Then I used pins about 3 or 4" above/below the rail chord to hold the fabric nice and snug. Takes 2 people to do this. I then cut off the remaining loose fabric leaving about 4 inches excess hanging off the Keder rails on the inside.

With all the fabric tight, I marked the major positions of the doors and windows with a fabric pencil. The back corners are 4.0" (8.0" total fabric) with the very corner in the center. The doors are also up and down about 4.0" from the frame. I also drew some lines laying out the side door contours.

>>> I found that the water proof zippers I bought are awesome and nice looking, however do not conform to corners (turn when flat) much at all so, that changed the zipper design for me last minute. Mine are all straight runs with the exception of the slight down curve at the front LH and RH.

I then pulled it all off, removed the rails and cord, leaving the tent pinned.



I used the frame/roof as a huge work table which was really nice. Even eventually put the sewing machine up there. After making some cuts for the zippers and rolling the LH and RH side out of the way, I began with the back. Here I am drawing a 4.0" line off the folded (don't iron it) corner.



Once that was done, started in on hems/ironing about 1/2 inch fold over (using my mock-up zippers as a template for dimensions) and adding the zipper sections. These fold overs I used the basting tape as it was easier, but no basting close to the zippers as it could really gum them up if the zipper separator got too close to the tape. Did that and it worried me during a test piece.

This would be a good time to show the zipper layout for the back and side doors.





This is the back door and screen mock up. I had to do this to see what it looked like. There are two zippers sewn together in the middle, together with the screen as shown, which is a simple fold over (although the loose end goes under not out). This way it works just like my Coleman tent (where I got the idea) so I can open the door (roll it up on the outside) or the screen and door (roll them up together) and also do this from inside or outside if you want.






This is the side and top zipper of the side doors (disregard the extra test stitching). I found that using a long stitch length with low tension kept bunching to a minimum and everything still held together well.



Measuring out the screen. Rear door is is on inside, side doors outside of tent.



The bottom of the rear door: Simple velcro. The hooks are sews in the door and the tent flap on the bottom, and the loops are sews into the screen, back to back. It is not perfect, but it works ok and I was sloppy attaching it in this pic but velcro allows me to pull any tension out of the rear screen so it is almost perfectly flat when the door is open (as shown above). Should be fine. I broke 3 needles on this one part and it also was a sewing machine mess. Took about an hour to get that one piece sewn back to back as that was a bit too much for the Singer. Everything else sewed beautifully.











Rear door zipper and a great pic of how nice this fabric looks. I single stitched everything till I was completely done, then added one more stitch at the very end before final install, in case I needed to rip stuff back apart, which I did a couple times



Starting in on the side doors.



One of the top corners of the side doors. These simply terminate where they come together at the corners and are hidden by a little sewn on triangle corner gusset to be installed last. Taped the fold but no tape for attaching the zippers out of fear of gumming up the glide (which I did on my test zipper pieces).



Rough draft of the rear lower corner.

I reinstalled it from time to time to pin the fabric and take some measurements.



This is the almost finished product. Note the corner triangle piece that hides the zipper ends and keeps water/bugs out of the really small gaps in the zipper ends. It is also easy to open from the inside and doesn't get in the way. It is like 10 feet up in the air so not sure how you would open it from the outside anyway. haha.



Then of course you need to finish up the front last. I did this pinning it all in position as-mounted, then removed and sewed it.



Inside view prior to the front piece and sewing the upper and lower edges. To do that, I installed it, pulled the fabric tight against the Keder rails, pinned the crap out of it against the tension, and removed and sewed it. Worked just fine.



The lower side of the screen is sewn common to the drip-flap on the bottom for most of it. The screen turns down and up at the front. I also added another little triangle at the front because I thought it looked good and the screen was a bit bunched there. Note that the zippers terminate as shown. The rest of that black headed FWD is 600D poly, same width as the zipper, to make the line look better from the side and to help me sew this without too much bunching at the front as you can cut the red fabric, pull it tight, then pin in the black piece and tighten it up.

All done on an old Grandma-special Singer

 

Very impressive sewing work. I am in awe

 

Few more view pics of the second night out in the RTT. Side windows that open from the top down are the way to go!!! I immediately liked that I could adjust the view/level of privacy quickly based on where I parked and people around. Leaving the sides about 12” up from the bottom meant you can sit up and peek out/down but passers by can’t see inside. Liked that feature a lot. Bonus: You can sleep better knowing idiots had no way of falling on or running over your head at night.

Morro Bay way in the distance.

 

Another shot with the sides zipped up. With the the zippers like this (at the top) it has been working out to control air flow/wind.

 

Sedona AZ

 

I don't know why I even open threads like this. It makes me feel like a complete idiot!

Good job though. This is so cool.

 

Composite panels

I was asked a few times about the panels I used for the ceiling, bed, close-out and doors that appear unsupported (no L-angles). That is because they don’t need it. They are very strong (in this case stiff) so it is unnecessary.

They are composite aerospace panels (combinations of fiberglass, carbon fiber, Nomex, etc.) used for aircraft floors, walls of galleys, lavatories, etc. Basically where you need a flat piece kinda the way you would use plywood in a home. Mine were scrap from a project (saved from the dumpster). There are many versions of the skins and core out there.

Here is an example of the sizes you may find. McGill is a leading manufacturer of these panels.



The bad news like I mentioned earlier is they are expensive to buy new. The good news is, the aerospace industry is currently not doing that great so used parts brokers may probably cut you some slack on surplus parts just to make a few hundred bucks. Not sure. You just need to know who to call and what to ask them for (by part number unfortunately).

I am going to ask around and perhaps build a contact file that I can PM those interested. Let me work on that...

In the meantime, here was the tedious way I built those parts. Enjoy!


My panels were not wide enough so I had to come up with a way of bonding them together.



I cut a slot in one side and a kerf in the other with table saw, air tools, etc. This was incredibly difficult to do.



The face skins were about .020” thick and the panel, about .400” thick total



They were bonded with an epoxy filler and resin.



Traced out the complex shapes and the others cut with careful measuring using a small die grinder and thin cutoff wheel.



Filled the edges with a core filler and some smoothing compound at the steps.


This is how you attach parts, wherever you want really. Using a sheet metal hole cutter in the skin and just gouge out the core with needle nose. This 10-32 (or 8-32) threaded insert (the gold part) floats around in there and is affixed to a resin blocker (the clear part) with adhesive and you inject adhesive into one of the two holes. When it vents out the other side, the void is filled and the insert set. Aerospace 101 stuff and available from aircraft home built suppliers.


I also ran wires inside the panels by running a long drill bit through it to gouge out a little wire channel.



I used my conventional router with some guides to cut off some meat so the 0.400” panel would fit nicely into the edge of the 80/20. (Bit speed was way too high for aluminum but I sorta made it work).



This was a test fit of the ceiling. Bit of soft blow set them all the way in there. Worked great but it was hot and my adhesive set pretty fast.



And once that was assembled, cut inserts for the tent supports on the inside.

Using this method, you could attach whatever you want wherever you want. The panels will support enormous weight. Each 10-32 screw easily supports about 400 lbs. Hard to believe.

Walking on the roof was no problem for the two of us.

Again, I know, sorry.... for the advanced crowd and very tedious but an awesome option!

 

That’s really cool. If I come across panels of that stuff I’m taking them.

I also really like the tent you made. So much visibility

 

Sedona is always lovely.

 

Where did you get the threaded inserts? Can't seem to find them anywhere

 

Ah, good question. eBay. Normally these are aerospace parts and expensive (certified with source paperwork from trusted suppliers and all that) so you could buy them from legit aerospace hardware suppliers at full price (probably $5 to $15 each) or go to eBay for the surplus version (airplane people do not buy this stuff from eBay) but you need to know what to look for. For example:




I used versions of NAS1835 so download that data sheet and also the Shur-Lok “Fasteners for Sandwich Structure Catalog” to find other numbers such as SL606 and SL2334. Those are floating, blind, inserts. Common non-floating blind is SL601, SL607, NAS1836, TYE2001, etc.

http://www.shur-lok.com/product_dls/Sandwich_Structure.pdf

There are many others so check catalog. Note that the “same” parts have several P/N’s so check P/N cross-reference lists.

I would start with “SL618”, “NAS1835”, “TYE2334”, “SL2334” etc. if that is what you are looking for (and whatever you think will work based on the catalog & cross ref list) and when you get some hits, look at the rest of the P/N of what they are selling (finish, material, depth, thread size) and see if it will work for your project. Cad plated steel works fine by the way. Expect to pay $0.5 to $2 each, which is a bargain.