Code Scanner with ABS Auto Bleed?

Does anyone know of a code scanner that has a functional auto bleed feature for the ABS on a 2005 Tacoma? Lots of them are advertised as having this function for our trucks, including the one I had overnighted to me yesterday, but don’t actually work even if you update them. I’m hoping to hear some first hand experience if possible since lots of the cheap import knockoff scanners don’t do what they say they will.

Apparently the local dealership here either doesn’t have the equipment or doesn’t know how to bleed the abs module either, so that’s not an option. They lured me in there saying they could do it but now I’m learning that they can’t. My truck is there currently not getting fixed for $160 and I’m supposed to tow a trailer in 4 hours. SMH.

 

I’m pretty sure there’s air in the ABS module. There’s definitely air in the system somewhere. The brake lines were disconnected for a few days during a brake upgrade and the master cylinder ran dry somehow. I spent an hour bleeding it and still have to pump the brakes to get decent stopping power.

I’m really getting irritated with shops and online sellers making false claims about fixing something as critical as the brakes. If the dealership doesn’t have it working by 5pm I’m just going to pick it up and find a dirt road somewhere to activate the abs to see if that forces the air to the calipers. I dropped it off at 7am and they said it would be a 1.5 hour wait. How the hell does the DEALERSHIP not have a way to bleed it???

 

If you have air in the ABS module, you’re going to need a pressure bleeder or use a scanner with software such as TechStream.

 

What are they saying?

They don't have the tool to bleed it

or

they're using the tool but the truck won't cooperate?

A master cylinder or a ABS module can be damaged from running dry.

 

It sounds like they’re all too intimidated to start workzing on it. Not a single person I’ve spoken to since dropping it off has any idea how to bleed it, and the service rep left a voicemail saying he’d have a guy look at first thing in the morning “to figure out what’s wrong.” I did drive it there (about 3 miles) but it was full and had been bled with about 2 quarts of fluid before I used the brakes. I was able to stop, I just had to push the pedal to the floor.

Of course they’re not answering or returning my calls now.

 

I'd be willing to bet they already attempted several bleeds. The scan tool walks you through the process, you don't need special training. If they can't get the air out with the bleed process, get ready for a phone call telling you there are parts that need to be replaced.

Not trying to be a jerk but you brought them a truck with air in the brake system and a master cylinder you know was run dry. Air getting in down at the wheels during a caliper swap is no big deal. Air getting in from up top at the master cylinder is no bueno. They can't just put their magic tool on it and get it to suddenly cooperate, it doesn't work like that.

if the bleeding process (when done correctly) doesn't get the air out, then you damaged something.

Sorry, hoping for a good outcome..

 

They said they don’t have a scan tool that bleeds the brakes. They said they usually just pump the brakes and do a pressure bleed sometimes.

How does running the master dry damage it? Aren’t they shipped dry? I was actually thinking of upgrading the master if this doesn’t work out, Toyota would be mailing me an empty one.

So far I’m not impressed with this dealership.

 

If the MC gets stroked with no fluid in it the seals can get damaged. Doesn't happen every single time but it can happen.

Honestly I'm surprised they're even working on it with all the non-original parts that have been installed. Usually dealers won't mess with upgraded stuff like that due to liability

 

Is this a Toyota dealer that doesn’t have the scan tool?

I thought dealers had to have a minimum set of equipment and staff per the franchise agreement.

Doesn’t seem like a scan tool is an outrageous expectation for a dealership to possess.

 

There can be a lot to bleeding the brake system.
Master Cylinder, ABS Module, and Calipers.
You can’t always bleed them from just the calipers.

I’ll also say, if the MC was run dry, and then is improperly bled it can be damaged.
Depending on the MC type, seals could be damaged as @b_r_o stated.

 

The brakes were never applied with the master cylinder empty, all the fluid just drained out when I was working on it. I spoke to a manager and he reduced the price since it wasn’t fixed. It was a tiny bit better but still has issues and feels like it has air in it. He said the master likely needs to be bench bled and I figured if I’m removing it I might as well swap in a bigger one to account for the rear discs.

I was honestly surprised that the dealership agreed to work on it too tbh, but I figured they had the right equipment so I decided to go for it. I think the manager was a little irritated that his guys agreed to work on it though.

Now to swap masters and start the process over again. At least I have time to order a proper scanner now.

 

Try bench bleeding it on the car by just cracking the lines right at the master. Put some rags down below to catch fluid. Kinda messy but it'll get a stubborn air pocket out sometimes

 

Not a brake expert, but my assumption is it could be damaged if it's not lubricated, as if it was new? If there was fluid in there and it ran dry, there would still be a film of fluid to lubricate the seals? Just a thought - comments, corrections, flames welcome.

I have bleed several ABS brake systems with a vacuum bleeder - no problem and nothing special. But I did not run the MC dry.

So I looked in the 2000 Tacoma FSM and if you ran it dry you might need to bleed the MC. - Basically bench bleed the MC. The make kits for this too.

Then there is this guy that cracked the brake lines at the ABS control unit, which is sort of a bench bleed.
https://youtu.be/ErTAL5oHZ7c

Best of luck

 

I'd like to know the outcome of this. Because I have a similar problem.

 

I was in a similar need and ended up buying an Xtool from Amazon. It wasn't cheap, but compared to towing to the dealer then paying them, it was close enough to justify the cost.