Code p0022

I've gotten this a few times, looked it up - "That consists of a few different components but the P0022 DTC specifically refers to the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is over-retarded, the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The "A" camshaft is either the intake, left, or front camshaft."

The car is running fine, now problems at all noted. The check engine light has not come on as of yet. I had it to the stealership at one point and with out any performance issues they weren't too concerned.

I don't remember the timing. The first time might have been a year+ ago, nothing for a while, then maybe one other but now it's come up 4 times since 2/28, 3 times since 4/27.

It's a 2010 with about 150K on it.

Any thoughts?

 

Yes I have several thoughts about this.

How often do you change the oil and filter?

The CAM Timing is controlled by oil pressure via an Oil Control Valve on each side of the engine. It could be gummed up and sticking or defective.

For each Oil Control Valve there is a OCV Filter if it is plugged up the Oil Control Valve will not operate properly.

These are the most probable causes for these types of issues.





See this thread for the Oil Control Valve Locations. There are two of them for the V6.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oil-control-valve-location.270960/page-2

 

I am having the same issue
did you figure this out?

 

Okay. I got this P0022 code. 2006 Tacoma V-6 160K miles. Changed the oil about 200 miles ago at 3500 miles. Light came on after accelerating to 80MPH around a truck on the freeway. I've read the information on this thread about the little filters that could be cleaned. The engine runs fine. Nothing happened during the acceleration or afterwards during the 20 miles to get home that suggested anything had changed or was wrong. I'm not spry enough any more to change those things or clean them myself.

Bottom line: Is there really anything wrong? Is this just a computer glitch, or can it ruin the motor? What is the real deal on this? I cleared the Code and thought to drive it some to see if it comes back - Yes or No? I don't mind taking it in to the dealer and paying for maintenance. The tires need to be rotated anyway. But I'd like to know the real scoop on these things. Enjoyed reading the info posted here. If I was 20 years younger, I'd be doing it tomorrow - may still look it over. But I am 70 with a heart condition and no arm strength for turning wrenches anymore. What's the Word?

 

Ive gone nearly 10k miles since the code came on for me (only 5 miles of driving with the code, then it cleared itself)
I would just keep driving
prob not a big deal
if the code comes back, then get serious

 

I'd think it could be a sensor, from what I see, many times the sensors give more trouble than what they are sensing

 

Drew is at 150 K. Chiloquin is at 350 K. GWG is at 160 K. In all three cases we're talking significant mileage. I'd suspect timing chain stretch or worn tensioner in all three cases. Unfortunately, pinning the problem down with confidence requires an expensive scan tool that can control the ECM and tell it to move the VVT solenoids to 100% duty cycle *and* measure whether that actually occurred. Also a scope and an amp clamp/probe to be able to perform a relative compression test and then compare the results for the Bank 1 cylinders to the results for the Bank 2 cylinders. Might be a better idea to take the vehicle(s) to a mechanic with this equipment and knowledge and pay his/her run rate to get a proper diagnosis of this problem. But again, if all these vehicles have been properly maintained, and not abused, I'm putting my money on chain stretch & worn tensioner.

 

Really appreciate the response, Folks! You are GREAT! I do plan to take it in eventually, but this corona virus crap and the fact that my normal dealer/shop is 50 miles up stream keeps me from going right now. When I saw the comments about sensor filters, etc., with my outfit being 160K, I figure it's probably time to get that kind of stuff changed, and your mention of timing chain stretch - the way I drive: HELL YA! I looked in the Haynes book about this and only ended up scratching my head. I can't dig into motors anymore - especially with all this new-fangled crap on them! Bring back my 67 Mustang and the 289 with a 4 barrel Carb! That's all I need! Well, I appreciate your time. I will drive it some since clearing the code and see what happens. It still runs fine, and has not missed a single beat since I bought it 6-8 years ago! Just absolutely love this little Truck!!

 

Old Guys Rule!

 

bunch of question for you (as its clear you know what you are talking about on this)-

how much would such a scan/exam cost roughly?
dealership? or independent mechanic?
what do you anticipate will happen over time if one doesn't fix this?
Im planning on driving my taco to 500k (Im at 363k) so can I make it another 135k without repairing this issue?
how much effort/money is it to replace the chain (or fix) & tensioner?

thanks for your knowledge!

 

Any of you guys look into this further? I just got the code too.

 

Got a "code in da doze"?

 

I musta had that code pop up at least a dozen times in the last 3-4 years. Oddly enough, nearly half of the times it was at the exact same spot on the road. Nothing special there except maybe a bit of a wavy up/down road. Either its a UFO parked nearby or I suspect my timing chain might be a tad loose and the synchronous wavelength provided by a certain speed and the waviness of the road loosens the chain just enough to get the code? I never had the check engine light switch on, the code just shows up on my Ultragauge. I just delete the code to stop the beeping. I do a lot of field work and abuse my truck quite a bit and I never had it happen on gravel roads, washboards etc. I don't seem to get the code more often as time goes by. I have about 110K miles on my 2012 Taco.

 

I'm driving a 2006 Tacoma Double Cab with 265,000 miles and this P0022 code has come up a few times. I change the oil and filter religiously every 5,000 miles, and there are no obvious symptoms. Start and idle is perfect, fuel economy is as good as it ever was, and the truck always runs great. Just finished a 2,000 mile round trip from Cincinnati to Bethesda, Hartford, and NYC and it continues to be flawless, so I'm not in any hurry to go running off to my mechanic about the code.

 

I understand the codes are to keep from having bigger problems but I swear the codes seem to be the biggest problem. This thread now has 15 posts, so far no problems other than the warning lights & codes. My 2013 had a wheel speed sensor code for over 2 yrs. 3 lights on in dash (Brake, Traction control, and something else). I replaced the wheel speed sensor, no help, later found and fixed a broke wire going to the sensor. Lights in dash went off. Have never had nor felt any kind of problem. I wouldn't care if the wire was still broken, all the repair has changed was getting the warning lights to go off... Things were so much simpler before all these new-fangled codes and warning lights were put on there.... Of course, just my opinion..

 

I'm not an engineer (nor do I play one on TV) but my understanding is that "Check Engine" light and its codes are in accordance with federal regulations regarding emission controls. Maybe the event causing the P0022 code is also potentially causing the emissions to go out of spec, hence the trigger.

 

You probably won’t notice a difference (at first) or ever.
But the that code is for the cam being over-retarded.
Typically, when the timing is not advanced enough, you’ll have a lack of power.
Again, depending on the degree it off, you may never notice.

 

I have some thoughts on this. The impression I get with this code, P0022, is something in the timing area is not allowing the adjusters to work freely. Both my suggestions are going to be controversial and it's at your own risk. I'm just an old backyard mechanic that just tries to keep things running.
You could try changing the oil to 0w-20 and drive it for some miles, 50, 100, 200, whatever you decide, then change it. The thinner oil may free something up.
Or with the 5w-30 oil in the truck, I would add about 5 ounces of seafoam just before you change the oil and then let the truck idle for 5, 10 minutes, again whatever you decide. Change the oil and put in the correct amount of 5w-30. I've often added 5/6 ounces of seafoam to the oil just before I change it and let the vehicle idle for about 5/10 minutes. It depends on the engine oil capacity. Just don't go over the 1oz per quart as stated on the seafoam directions.
Or you could do a combination of both.
I never did catch whether it's 4 or V6.

 

I like your ideas Dave, cheapest easiest things first. Kind'f the same, me and a neighbor both have Taco's with 2.7's. both eng.'s had what sounded like a lifter tapping on first start-up, for appx 1 min., when temps. were under 30 degrees. A dose of Seafoam in his crankcase stopped the tapping in his eng., The same dose of Seafoam a few times, then tried a dose of Lucas oil treatment. Mine is still tapping on cold mornings... Well worth the effort... Like Trump said, "What have you got to lose"

 

I have gotten this code a half dozen times in the last year. Probably 3 times in the last couple months. Always comes up as a pending code on my ultragauge and doesn't throw the CEL. Never knotice any issues when it goes off. I should really try to clean the OCVs or replace them but it doesn't seem to cause any issues when it does go off.