Clutch problem? Wont cold start in gear, and cant shift into gear from neutral once running, but...

... it seems to work fine once the truck is warmed up. After its warmed up, it can shift into gears just fine, but maybe clutch disengagement seems to happen (based on sound, the subtle whirring) within a quarter-inch (or even less) of fully depressed clutch.

Anyone have a clue what this might be, and maybe help me run through some tests/options starting with whatever I can fix or check myself? Maybe a clutch issue in combination with bad gas?

Some background: fuel pump went out last week, so truck was sitting for about a week. Lots of starting attempts happened during the diagnosing stage as I used a multimeter to test pins while cranking, all with clutch pedal depressed. After starting it up the first time after installing a new pump, lots of smoke/condensation, and grinding when I tried to put it in reverse. But after a couple minutes idling it was fine to gear change and it took me to the store and back. This morning, it almost bogged down to the point where I thought it was going to die on some uphills, and even in 2nd gear seemed like I only had half power and I think I even heard some small popping noises from the engine. I couldnt gear change unless I matched road speed to the right gear, or shut it off and started moving in 2nd. But after 6 or 7 minutes of this, it suddenly worked fine. Got me to work and then basically the same thing happened this afternoon. But this time I couldnt even start it in gear, it would sound very weak cranking, almost similar to like the battery was low, and wouldnt start up. Could start in neutral fine, but I couldnt shift into gear. Got pulled to a downhill, was able to get into gears by matching speed to the gear, and got it home, shifting through 2nd 3rd and 4th on some downhills. As I got near my house (~5min drive) I was able to use the clutch like normal. Can move through all gears smoothly when truck is off and on.

I did change my torsion clutch return spring last night (so the issue was pre-existing but not duplicated or as severe at this point in time) to a linear spring but that should only effect the clutch return, which seems fine, maybe a little softer than stock. Truck was still warm when I made this change and all testing seemed good. I didnt adjust anything else on the clutch assembly.

95 3.4L 4x4 manual, 239k miles

 

Fresh clean DOT 3/4 fluid in clutch master cylinder ?
Check for cracked/broken mount and firewall ?
Clutch fork on bell housing cracked/bent ?
Correct adjustment ?

 

Will go out to the truck and check what I can (fluid and pedal adjustment) but I have some questions about the pedal adjustment as I've seen this diagram here before:

Since Push rod play is less than free play, how do I know what the Push rod play is, as its within the freeplay movement? How much resistance are we talking about? What does 'increase a little' in resistance mean? Should the truck be off or running? Should any return springs be attached or detached?

Why does the diagram show push rod play to be 2-3x as much as freeplay when push rod play is only supposed to be 1mm-5mm?

Also, whats an asphalt sheet?

Thanks maybe I'm overthinking all of it but I do feel like I need it broken down in simpler terms to me a bit more.

 

Pedal height from floor board is 6.75", which is good

Pedal freeplay is 0.3125" which is good

Push rod play (I think) seems be right at the first 1/16th of an inch so 0.0625" which is good.

Clutch master cylinder fluid is very low and very gross. Will change asap.

 

Asphalt sheet is under carpet.
Judging by your questions I'd wager your clutch fluid is black.
Use a turkey baster to empty fluid and fill with fresh DOT 3/4.
Don't attempt to bleed slave cylinder, just repeat drain and fill master over the next month or 100 miles until fluid stays clean.
Good luck.

 

Thank you very much, I'll see if this fixes everything. Yeah looks like 'black sand' at the reservoir.

I'll do the quick and easy solution for now, but do you recommend a total fluid flush and replacement of slave and master cylinder at some point? I see some people change out the rubber hoses too

 

"Black sand"?
Is this a barn find Taco ?
Clutch bleed is tricky unless you know the time proven one man tube and cup method you'll end up with air in system because the bleeder is at the bottom and sucks air in.
You may need to replace Master, slave and rubber hose but try the turkey baster first.
If you do replace you'll need line wrench and 2 foot of 3/8"clear poly hose to cup bleed after bench bleed and install.

 

Yeah this taco has been an interesting adventure. Got it last year and always finding something to work on or fix. Thats my own fault for not checking that fluid since, first time owning a manual (but driven plenty) so it didnt even cross my mind.

Put fluid in the (literally empty except for a black residue) res and basted it out a few times till it was clear. First couple times was B L A C K. Pumped the clutch a few times and now she seems to shift just fine. Will test more tomorrow but I think that was the ticket.

Appreciate the help!

 

Black brake fluid will destroy brake system. Full system flush
Lube all driveshaft zerks.
Change 75w90 in diffs, Tcase and trans.
Replace rear differential breather $10
Just in case you run out of projects

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJHTDVV

 

All nipples were greased, proper gear oil in everything. Front diff was nasty, had to pump it out because drain plug was super stuck. Almost every engine gasket besides head and oil pan replaced due to leaks, new radiator, sparks, wires, PCV valves, several different bearings and seals on axles and driveshaft, fuel filter and pump, hoses and vacuum stuff redone, heater valve, some suspension work and lots of other little stuff like getting correct bolts and lug nuts. I had a buddy mechanic help with almost everything, so maybe I can shift half the blame on him for also neglecting the clutch fluid lol. But cant be too mad since it was all done for like 1/4th of the price a shop would have charged.

LCA lower bushings next so i can finally get an alignment to stick, new tires and possibly a diff rebuild (get some grinding occasionally on decel. forgot the name of the likely gear/bearing thats causing it). Later on water pump and timing belt. Also need cab mounts as one wore down so bad it sits crooked. I think there was a half-ass body lift involved by PO.