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Cleaning Out Control Arm Bushing Sleeves

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by FWAdam, Apr 11, 2016.

  1. Apr 11, 2016 at 7:23 PM
    #1
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY Frame replacement New rear leaf springs (General Spring, stock height) Wheeler's greasable shackles Bilstein 5100 / 5125 Roll-on bedliner Poly bushings all around Leer topper Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires New drum brakes, rotors and pads, and Nickel-Copper brake lines Window tint Wheels painted black Interstate battery New spark plugs Chrome bumpers painted Bucket seats and console (soon) Emblems plasti-dipped (soon) 4x4 conversion (2017)
    Hey Team:
    I really need to start posting my build, but the quick and dirty of it is that I am doing a frame replacement / overall restoration of a 2001 regular cab prerunner.

    I'm onto the front suspension components. I've already got the Bilstein 5100s on, new ball joints, and am also swapping in some poly bushings int he UCAs and LCAs. This is where I've hit my current snag.

    I need to retain the outer sleeves from the original bushings, and need only remove the inner sleeve and rubber component. I tried burning with a torch on the first UCA and ended up with a sticky, gooey mess inside of the outer sleeve. I tried charring it up some more with the torch, but need to get it cleaned up more. I tried some dremel attachments and also some various drill attachments, but all I end up doing with the dremel is heating it up and making the rubber smoke, and the drill attachments just end up getting gunked up with sticky rubber.

    Has anyone had better luck removing the rubber while keeping the sleeve, while being able to get the inside of the sleeve a bit more cleaned up? Thanks for the input.

    Adam
     
  2. Apr 11, 2016 at 8:42 PM
    #2
    CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

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    I would get a drill and a drill bit to the outer parameter of the rubber bushing all the way around trying to drill each hole as close to the previous hole. The bushing should almost fall out if you do it right. Why not just have the outer sleeve, rubber bushing and inner sleeve pressed out?
     
  3. Apr 11, 2016 at 8:54 PM
    #3
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY Frame replacement New rear leaf springs (General Spring, stock height) Wheeler's greasable shackles Bilstein 5100 / 5125 Roll-on bedliner Poly bushings all around Leer topper Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires New drum brakes, rotors and pads, and Nickel-Copper brake lines Window tint Wheels painted black Interstate battery New spark plugs Chrome bumpers painted Bucket seats and console (soon) Emblems plasti-dipped (soon) 4x4 conversion (2017)
    I need to retain the outer sleeve for the poly bushings to fit correctly.
    I've tried the drilling out method, but the rubber is adhered enough to the outer sleeve that there is still a lot remaining.
     
  4. Apr 11, 2016 at 9:00 PM
    #4
    CD20H

    CD20H Well-Known Member

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    What you need is a small wood chisel so you can whittle the rubber out.
     
  5. Apr 12, 2016 at 9:43 PM
    #5
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    doesn't completely do the job but, air hammer and a simple small chisel. when im replacing oe arm bushinds, i will pop the center sleeve and most of the rubber out just by using an air hammer. with pressure applied, it will usually cut the rubber.
     
  6. Apr 13, 2016 at 3:08 AM
    #6
    Obsessed2000

    Obsessed2000 Just a big dummy

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    Check out my 96 build I have a lot of pics. I did give up b/c I could not get the washers reconnected. Got everything else done though. Ended up going with MOOG bushings. Got them installed in under 30 mins compared to the probably 3-6 hours I spent dicking around with all the burning of the rubber and the rest of that nonsense. Now those perfectly cleaned out sleeves are somewhere in the garage after I threw a temper tantrum. I'll find them one day...:(:mad:
     
  7. Apr 13, 2016 at 5:19 AM
    #7
    fireman1073

    fireman1073 Well-Known Member

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    probably won't help this time but i used a hole saw to cut rubber out, cuts like butter
    any pieces left push right out with fingers
     
  8. Apr 14, 2016 at 12:30 AM
    #8
    pofarm

    pofarm Well-Known Member

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    I heated mine with a torch until they started melting and pressed them out. Yes, it left gooey rubber in the outer sleeves. I used the original Goop hand cleaner to clean the melted rubber out of the sleeves, then 80 grit sandpapered the hard rubber bits that were left.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Apr 14, 2016 at 12:32 PM
    #9
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    I used several wire wheels of 1" and yes they gunk but it will clean them out. I used a screwdriver and other various things to "try" to get5 the rubber out but it's so mushy or hard that it skims right by.

    time taken was at least a few hours to get everything cleaned. I did it over hte course of two days back and forth.
     
  10. Apr 21, 2016 at 3:46 PM
    #10
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Messages:
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    Vehicle:
    2001 Regular Cab Prerunner
    DIY Frame replacement New rear leaf springs (General Spring, stock height) Wheeler's greasable shackles Bilstein 5100 / 5125 Roll-on bedliner Poly bushings all around Leer topper Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires New drum brakes, rotors and pads, and Nickel-Copper brake lines Window tint Wheels painted black Interstate battery New spark plugs Chrome bumpers painted Bucket seats and console (soon) Emblems plasti-dipped (soon) 4x4 conversion (2017)
    Thanks for all the very helpful suggestions. I've got the UCAs done and am moving onto the LCAs. I ended up having good luck with a lot of torching following by a large screwdriver for the leftover charred bits, followed by putting a burr bit on the dremel. The burr bit got the job done very well, removing the remaining rubber (and a small amount of metal) without too much fuss.
     

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