Clean VHF/CB radio installs

Cool beans.

Those weren't specific examples. Those were just the first results to show the styles since I can't articulate as well.

I'm thinking I'll get one of them stibbby ones and try it out and see how good it does. And then I can get one of them whip like ones for drives where I know I'll need it etc.

 

The PCTel antenna mount came in the mail and I had nothing much to do while the tile guys were putting down a floor, so I decided to take "a quick look" to see if it would work. Of course the "quick look" turned into removing the old mount and cable.

Here was the problem (that I created) with the original mount/cable.

I routed this incorrectly and as a result the cable got crush, but not cut. It doesn't show in this picture, but you can see how that would happen.



My first move was to buy a new thick surface mount, but when it came, I spotted a couple of problems or at least potential problems.



First, this is not a standard NMO mount. NMO base coils will fit, but the stem is closer to 1/2" and not the standard NMO 3/8 stem. Which would mean taking out the bracket and drilling a hole. I wasn't all that crazy about that. The second, and maybe bigger issue was clearance between this mount and the windshield. I was concerned that this might hit the windshield when the hood was closed. I'd have to put nylon washers on to correct for that and it was less than ideal.

I bought the PCTel mount because it seemed like that would be less of an issue. Once I removed the Laird mount I did some careful test fitting and it turns out that because of the standard construction that was not an issue.

Here is the mount installed. I thought I got a better picture of the test fitting, but apparently not. It's a much cleaner look than the other mount would have given and gives plenty of clearance.



Here is the correct antenna cable routing. Once again I used the AC drain hose gasket a my routing. There are other places, but since I knew how this worked, I stuck with it. Don't forget to put a drip loop where the cable goes into the cab to keep water from traveling down the cable and getting inside



This cable routing is clean and won't crimp the cable. This doesn't show where I dropped it down under the air intake cover, but there should be other pictures in this thread that show it. I wired tied it to one of the tubes for the brake proportioning/ABS valve and routed it under the wire loom on that side. If anyone really wants pictures let me know.

After running the wire into the cab and up where the radio is mounted, I crimped the BNC connector on, connected it to the radio, put the antenna back on and started the scanner up. Reception is a bit better, especially on 700/800/900Mhz, but also on UHF.

I put everything back together and job done!

Of course no radio work would be complete without some minor trauma, so here is the proof!



Oh, I also brought the original mount into the house and replaced the cable. I'll have a spare just in case I don't like the results of this job.

 

Installed the Rago driver's side antenna mount for use with a CB antenna. Ended up running the end of the mount under the bed stiffener. Slight rub on the tailgate when opening/closing, few whacks on the mount with a rubber hammer, and rub is gone. The mount is solid as a rock.

Had the pleasure of drilling hole into the body of this new 3rd gen to cleanly route both the coax and the 3/8" ground strap though a grommet, never to be seen again.

Shrink-wrapped the strap and soldered in ring connectors to both ends.

RG-58 coax with a Firestik FireRing terminal and a 90 degree takeoff. So, straight shot into the body panel. FME screw-off PL-259 connection simplified the process.

Ground strap routed through taillight enclosure and mounted under pictured bolt after filing away small amount of paint to expose bare metal. Able to tune antenna to SWR's as low as about 1.2. So, it seems to work.

Coax routed through taillight enclosure, fished above rear wheel well, and then shoved through the pictured existing grommet (after much hole-poking/stretching). Then, coax run underneath rear door sill panel, fished under lower portion of B-pillar panel, run underneath front door sill panel, behind driver's kick panel, and up under dash to radio's SO-239.

Going the route I took, there were only about 3-4 inches of slack left over on the 18' coax.

Since I didn't like the cable of the little Midland 75-822 radio hanging over the HU, and as I couldn't come up with any better options on how to re-organize my other mounts, I pulled out the Expedition Essentials mount's USB port, threaded the radio cable through it. I reinstalled the port using washers on the bolt opposite the cable entry side to keep the port mounting reasonably straight.

The radio is mounted on an Expedition Essentials CB mic mount. With the cable as it is, the mic really can't be moved to talk. But, I'll be using it primarily as a weather radio and a "bear alerter" on the road. If I do ever key it up, I just plan to yell to be heard.



Grommet location:

 

Has anyone tried one of these EM Wave EM-MG11006-SP to replace the shark fin antenna? You'd lose the XM antenna but if that's not important too you seems like it could be a good way to add an NMO mount to the roof without drilling a new hole.

 

Here is another option... I installed a RAM laptop mount, yes the passenger still has plenty of leg room. Fished some MIG wire through the passenger plug on the firewall into the cabin. Works well!

 

I am replacing my CB radio as I just dont use it very much. I want to put a midland GMRS radio in to replace it for a upcoming trip I have this summer. But Im not sure if the midland is going to be the best choice for me.

Here are the uses I will have for this. I need to talk to another car in the group that my friend and his family will be in (I dont feel like calling on the phone each time I just need to tell him to stop at the next bathroom), But mainly I need a way for my wife to reach me while I am out on the lake kayaking with my friend, we wont have cell phones while out on the water.

I figure I can put the midland in the truck with the big antenna, then me and my friend can just have handhelds so we can talk. If my wife needs to get ahold of us she can turn on the midland in the truck and talk to us.

I dont go offroading so normal coms are useless to me, I only need standard walkie talkies as thats what we use for kayak fishing when we go in groups (its easier than yelling across the lake), but want a "base station" in the truck that I can use when I get to the lake parking lot to find to call my buddy to come back to shore. We would also be using these when ice fishing so my friend can buzz me to come pick him up (he has a little chevy 2wd suv and cant drive on the ice)

I am trying to decide between the

$161 MXT275 MicroMobile® GMRS Radio – 15 watts Two-Way Radio with Integrated Control Microphone – Overland Caravanning Tractors – Detachable External Magnetic Mount Antenna - 8 Repeater Channels

MXT275 and the MTX115. Im leaning to the mtx115 and putting it where the cubby is on the left side. Then I will replace my CB switch and cat5 dash plug with something more useful.


Now before anyone says "just use a cell phone", cell phone is not useful some places due to no service, but also because its dumb to call someone on the cell phone, wait for them to pickup and not drop their phone in the lake, just to tell them to come to shore or that I am on my way to them.

 

I'd use handhelds. Just give your buddy one and you the other. For how often you'd use it. Hell FRS is probably enough depending on the size of the lake.

 

So, I've read a lot, not all 110 pages and researched (analysis paralysis) a lot today. I think my main questions for my upcoming attempt at a Midland GMRS radio install w/ Victory 4X4 hood mounting bracket are the following:

Can I run the radio power to my SPod? I've read/watched videos of only running to battery for "clean" power and no interference
How important it is to not run antenna cable along other power wires? I have a dual battery located on passenger side of engine bay nearest the windshield and want to mount my antenna on that side, the other side has my Spod and wires from compressor/light bar/bed aux power, etc. There is basically no way to avoid power wires in my engine bay.
Can someone explain the bending process of the Victory 4X4 bracket to me a little more? I read where you can't bend it down, but to over-bend it down and work up? But if you can't bend it down... what? So confused on that.
Can I not paint/powder coat the mounting bracket and not loose reception/transmission capabilities?

I've read that coiling the excess antenna cable is a no-no. (Interference or loss of reception or something "bad") I'm going to have a lot of excess cable. Is it worth shortening and having "someone" re-crimp a connection? If so, who would I take it to to have that done?

Am I burned out on researching this and overthinking the sh!t out of this?

Any help/insight would be appreciated. Keep in mind, I'm not radio/electrical savvy.

@n6vmo Isn't this in your wheelhouse? Not sure if you remember me, but we met in Nipomo and you bought my PacoPad, I think. You still around?

 

Here even more OD material: www.arcantenna.com/collections/gmrs-antennas-nmo-mounts

 

You'll need to bend the mount in a downward direction when it's off the vehicle. The cowl makes it hard to bend downward because it's in the way. You might be able to use the 3/8 mounting hole and a long 3/8 bolt as a "handle" to manipulate it on the vehicle. It's really not that hard. Took me a few times on and off the truck to get it right. Use of a vise to make the bend would be easier, but I just used two Crescent wrenches. The most important part is to get the correct NMO mount and make sure you seal it good at the coax.

 

See post 2182 for my comments on those RF Max thick surface mounts. Also, use a lot of care bending the Victory bracket, it might snap fairly easily.

 

For the radio power, you can hook to the battery positive, but with new cars you should connect the negative to the stud where the battery’s negative pole connects to on the vehicle.

For excess cable, you can either cut it to length or do as I do and snake the excess around the veicle to avoid coiling the cable.

 

I went with the 275 and the 3db ghost, and two

$20 Radioddity GM-30 GMRS Radio Handheld 5W Long Range Two Way Radio for Adults, GMRS Repeater Capable, with NOAA Scanning & Receiving, Display SYNC, for Off Road Overlanding Family Use, 1 Pack

Radioddity GM-30 with better antennae. Very happy.

 

If anyone was wondering it is in fact possible to fit one of these in place of the factory shark fin with a few caveats. First, the hole in the roof is slightly smaller than needed (at least in a a second gen) requiring some filing of the stem of the antenna mount and the roof hole. Second, removing and installing the shark fin is a nightmarish hell that will render the tops of your hands to painful scraped up bloody stumps.

 

Old thread, I know, but I'm interested in knowing how the FT-891/ATAS setup worked for you as-installed. There's another thread on TW discussing an RFI nightmare from the fuel pump on 20m in a 3rd Gen... have you experienced that?

 

I'm interested also. I'm in the process of installing a HF system.

 

Wasn't terribly thrilled with the setup pictured in post #2183. And, the quality of the little all-in-one Midland left a lot to be desired.

• Pulled out the center console and center dash assembly.

• With some cutting of rubber and jig-sawing of the plastic floor of the center alcove, was able to jam the back end of a CB into the space where the never-used wireless phone charger had been.

• Removed the light and light cover that had served to illuminate the center alcove, which left a hole in the roof of the alcove.

• Ran a bolt from the radio bracket (had to drill a new bracket hole to allow for alignment) into the above hole.

• Running the bolt through a ~3/4" cylindrical metal spacer between the bracket and the alcove roof allowed for a snug fit of the whole assembly.

• Secured the radio/bracket to the roof of the alcove and put the dash paneling puzzle back together again.

Complete and utter PITA. Possibly worth it.

Now to figure out where to put a GMRS radio, if and when I eventually get one.

 

I put my midland GMRS radio in the same spot that you installed this radio. It’s a great location! Looks like your radio took most of the real estate down there. Could always get a GMRS under the seat or dash then just have the mic with controls on it next to the CB mic.

 

Yep. No room for anything left there. It was a hell of a tight squeeze.


I've considered getting a Wouxun KG-1000G and mounting the detachable face panel to an articulated TackForm arm coming off my track mount

There's barely enough legroom under the dash on the driver's side as it is. Under the passenger dash is definitely a possibility, though not ideal for seeing the screen (but, better visibility than under the seat).


If I end up instead just getting a handheld, I'll probably mount an arm/holder to the center dash, just to the right of the temperature controls.

 

Yes, the Tacoma is pretty snug once you add anything. I was considering installing under the seat and running the mic to the center console if it was a mic controlled radio. Your install is clean and looks like a natural fit. I’m planning on installing my mic holder in the same area as yours but on a ram arm.