Choosing a relay for finishing my aux fuse panel

I recently bought a Blue Sea Fuse Block for my truck. The one I chose has 6 circuits that are always on, and 6 that are switched.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5032/ST_Blade_Split_Bus_Fuse_Block

Wiring the always on side is pretty easy, but a quick question for the relay for the switched side. I am familar with how a relay works and have used and installed them before(my spot lights on my truck and bike) but both of those came with a kit, I didnt have to choose 1.

This is the wiring diagram for th fuse block.


Is a relay able to take the full amount of power the fuse block can handle(100A)? I believe I will need a 3 prong relay.
+ in from battery
+ out to Fuse Block
+ from a switched circuit via a add-a-circuit

Can someone link to me to a proper relay I need?

Also what gauge wire would be recommended for running the +, and - from the battery to the box.

Thanks for any help.

 

Is this correct you want a relay to energize all 6 circuits with a total load of 100 amps ??

this needs to be continuous duty as this could be pulled in for long periods of time correct ??

Do you plan on using the ignition switch to energize the relay or a separate switch ??

For 100 amps you want to use no smaller then 4 gauge don`t forget the circuit protection .

Just search 12VDC continuous relay like any other parts you tend to get what you pay for .

Most will have 4 pins or terminals 2 energize the coil the other 2 are the system voltage a relay is just a fancy switch

 

It's a bit more common to run a fuse or breaker to the panel and one relay for each separate switched circuit. Power for the relays is always hot but power for the switches can be either always hot or tied to an ignition only source.

 

X2

I can manual cut off my breaker too if I want to isolate it for any reason

 

The top 6 are supposed to be always hot and the bottom 6 switched by the ignition.
I put 100a as that is what the box is rated for, but will be using far less than that. I only plan on small things such as my GPS, a extra cigarette lighter, led's in my bed and a seat heater. I just want to eliminate the add-a-circuits I currently have in the stock fuse box.

I have a great box on my motorcycle where it has a built in relay. I can choose each circuit to be switched or not. Unfortunately that box is rated very low for amps so I skipped on it for the truck.

 

You should only need one wire tap if you're talking about powering all the led switches. What's your concern about putting a switch before switches ?

 

Check this site out and search for P/N 70-902. I'd imagine you will want something along those lines. Looking at the specs from the site you provided, the block is rated at 100A, each group is only rated at 80A, and each circuit at 30A. So a relay of 80A continuous duty should do.
http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

 

You could use a continuous duty solonoid vs a relay. Cheap and easy to wire up. Like said above, use 4ga wire.
You should be able to find a 100a continuous duty solenoid for $20-$30 at any auto parts store or online.
I’m currently wiring up one to put 50a back to my dump trailer battery.

Good idea to leave some circuits hot and some switched! Then for your higher draw circuits you can still use a switch/ relay to control them.

 

what's up @bagleboy

I'm upgrading my electrical system to get a clean wire setup and prepare for my winch installation and eventually a HO alternator and long long term dual battery. Plus its is an excuse to work on my truck. It is two part: 1. doing the big 3/4 upgrade. I picked up a engine battery wire harness no. 2 and will be swapping out the power/ground wires for smaller gauge with OFC cable; 2. is installing a power tray, circuit breaker, blue sea, relays, and a rocker switch panel. I'll be daisy chaining all my rockers power/grounds and have individual color coated wires from rocker - relay - accessory.

Question - I want to only have the relayed accessories hot with ignition. IF I use an add-a-fuse in my fuse panel inside my cab to power my rockers (all daisy chained), would that make it so my relays are only hot when my ignition is on? If I had an accessory on and turned off the ignition would that automatically close the relay and turn off the accessory?

 

Short answer is yes. The power through the relay to the accessory can be hot all the time but if the switched side of the relay gets powered by an ignition only source then the accessories are ignition only. Once ignition is off the relays cannot pass any current. This is exactly how tacozord details it in his bussman thread. Tons of pics, best source ever.

You can mix/match by also having another switch bank either always hot or with its own aux power switch(say you have a bank of switches in the back you want powered with ignition off and not while driving because gear might shift and hit a switch).

 

great, I'll check out that thread.

 

Link https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/

 

perfect. I've been searching for this guy. I got inspired to do the big 3/4 upgrade from his webpage. I knew he was on here but didnt know who we was. You were right, everything I need for wiring my switch panel was in there. Graci!

 

This is another useful thread. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/show-off-your-aux-fuse-panels.308677/

If you're planning a second battery there are plenty of threads on that and other outbound topics, water storage being particularly important.