Check engine light

I started my 95 tacoma 4wd and it died, So i waited a minuet and started it again. It stated but the check engine light came on,when I started to drive it the Truck ran very rough so now im trying to check the codes. I tried jumping the Te1 and E1 connection on the diagnostic but the light will not flash any codes. What should I do? Any advice would be helpful

 

If your truck has over say 140,000 miles you should install a new exhaust O2 sensor and spark plugs.

Check all vacuum hoses are in good shape and connected.

How old is the battery?

If you get it running tap lightly the MAF sensor with the handle of a screwdriver; if the idle fluctuates the MAF is bad.

Then EGR stuff, I guess.

 

Get the codes from Autozone, NAPA, etc. That should tell the tale. I bet it's gonna be a misfire in one or more cylinders. That tells you that you need to fix any number of things relating to spark, fuel, or air. So in order, try these:

1) Replace plugs and wires, unless you know they are new (less than something like 30K miles).
2) You can check the MAF that way ^^ or get some MAF/electrical contact cleaner and carefully remove the unit and spray the sensors down (there are two).
3) Oxygen sensor replacement is probably in order. There are a million threads on that. Search.
4) EGR valve is bad. I just replaced mine, fixed a rough idle/bogging down issue I had when cold. EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is part of the emission system, and the valve opens and closes depending on the temp of the engine. If it's bad, it simulates a vacuum leak, which as Steve says, will have you running rough, usually too fuel-rich, as the computer senses too much air in the mix, and adds fuel, unnecessarily.

If it's your CAT or O2 sensor, there's probably gonna be a code for that. But my EGR did not throw a code, and a dirty MAF might not either. But it's likely one of those few things.

Welcome to TW Go in and stick your truck year and engine size in your profile, that way folks will be able to be more specific with ideas. Good luck!

 

...You could also just look/listen for a vacuum leak. Might well have an 18 year old hose that has cracked, not that all the more complicated options are not valid. Just sometimes we overlook the simple stuff...

Codes can in many/most places be read for free at an autoparts store.

 

Being a 95 tacoma you can connect up an OBD code reader, turn the key on and pull the codes. As said above, if you don't have one then you can go to Autozone, Oreilly etc. and they can pull the codes for you free. I don't have Advance autoparts here, but assume they do the same. Call the store ahead if you are unsure. I'm not sure if they rent them, don't think so as they do them for free in store, but guess you can check that if needed. I bought one from sears for $100 or so. Handy thing to have.

Once you have the codes then you can get into the systems listed.

Have you done anything to the truck right before this happened? Pressure washed the engine perhaps? Done some work to it? Did you notice any issues with the way it ran before this happened?

 

Thanks for the ideas. Let me give some better info. Its a 95 Tacoma sx 2.7lt 4cylinder, It has 157,000 miles on it. It has had some work done to it over the past few years. Head gasket replaced in 2008, new master and slave clutch cylinder's in 2011, and so far this year new radiator, new cv axles,

To clarify the problem.
I ask at Autozone about pulling the codes and I was told they couldn't get the codes because or the age of the truck I would have to take it to a dealer (im not wanting to spend that kind of money yet)
I found on the internet that you can jump the Te1 and e1 terminals and the check engine light will flash to tell you what the codes are.
I tried that and the light just stays on solid, no flashing. So where do I go from here to try to locate the problem?

I have cleaned the Mass air sensor. That didn't do it . I check the plugs and wires and they seem fine.
The truck will start and it idles smooth but once you try to drive it misses and chugs and runs really rough.
A friend told me the computer may be bad and that's why I cant get the light to flash the codes. I don't know?

 

Despite being a 95, of it's a Tacoma it should be OBDII, from what I read. Elsewhere I read that it may not be "fully compliant" whatever that means, but it still may read into a scan tool?

If the sticker under the hood says OBDII, and the connector looks like an OBDII connector, try a different shop or tell autozone to give it a try anyway. It was "required" on all 1996 and later model year vehicles, but it was being phased in in 94 and 95.

...but I suppose if you actually found a t1 an e1 to connect you'd have the older style (perhaps it was a 95.5 change? but my impression was that the 3RZ engine is OBDII, period.)

 

this is the connector I have. The red shows how to place a jumper wire.
http://www.2carpros.com/images/arti...ctor/data_port/toyota_dianostic_connector.jpg

 

Autozone person probably going off the year on the test. I have a 1995 Tacoma as well, although a v6, but should not make a difference. Anyone feel free to correct if I am wrong. From what I've seen the first year of the Tacoma was 1995, but is often called 95.5 as it came out mid year or sometimes just looked at as a 1996 depending on what you are looking at info/parts wise. At least that is my experience.

Mine has the OBD system although I found no sticker under the hood to say it is so and it is all factory under there. Either way, tester hooks right up, turn the key to the on position and pull the codes no problem.

I'd take it back to the Autozone and just tell them it's a 1996 and have them pull the codes for you.

One tip, maybe fill in your profile a bit more such as listing location etc. Might have a fellow board member close who could help you.

 

I finally pulled the codes on my truck and it shows PO100 and PO101. mass air flow sensor, So I did clean and replace this even before I pulled the codes and had no improvement. I cleaned again (no good) So I heard that to check for sure start the engine and disconnect the MAF and the idle should improve and if the engine dies its probably not the MAF, Well just my luck the engine died!

So is the MAF bad or not? Please help

 

Sounds like from the codes you pulled and the steps you have taken that indeed the MAF has gone bad. Not completely sure but if you find that you need a replacement one can be had for $202 with a 32 dollar core charge.
Possible Solutions

The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:

Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Unplug and reconnect the MAF wiring harness
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor


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