Ceramic coated my 2017 Tacoma!

Have heard that when the sealant starts to deteriorate it will look like peeling clear coat and the only way to remove is by wet sanding it off. Anyone know for sure if this is correct?

 

Never heard of that. If thats true it’s probably cause people didn’t maintain and properly wash their car.

 

Or that the vehicle was not prepared correctly before applying the sealant
I have the same sealant on my Mercedes for 2 years and it looks great and sheds water like crazy

 

Agreed, the Cquartz 3.0 is bad ass.. Did mine the first couple of days owning the truck, makes washing it a breeze. Do watch some application videos, its not like wax.

 

I too am a big believer in ceramic coating.
I've used McKees in the past : https://www.mckees37.com/car-coating-kit.html If you order it direct vs Amazon, you get a bunch of stuff thrown in. Good dtuff.
I plan on trying Adam's next: https://adamspolishes.com/shop/adams-ceramics/kits/ceramic-paint-coating-kit.html

Yes, you need to strip the wax from your vehicle or the ceramic won't stick. You can wax over the top of ceramic or apply a "top coat" to help improve longevity.

 

Go to Auto Geek or Detailed Image. There you can find CORRECT information, vids and tutorials, about the CQuartz process from REAL detailers who have used it and have deep experience in the application of it and other nano technologies. I recommend polishing with Essence first. I also recommend Gliss after the CQuartz. I did both. Don't forget your wheels and window glass too. CQuartz for the wheels, and CarPro's window quartz kit for the windows. Go for the TOTAL look.

 

Game changer man

 

Just just got this in the mail today another awesome sealant (look into it autogeek) this is for my wife’s car and my car. A lot of detailing in my future

 

Let us know how it works out

 

+1 for going to Autogeek or other detail forum and diving deep to better understand product and processes.

I took a 80-20 (80% of results with 20% effort) approach when I bought my Tacoma - knowing I would be using the truck as a daily and taking her off road I wanted the protection (a ceramic coating adds a sacrificial semi-permanent but easily reversible layer of protection to the paint) and durability of a ceramic coating but didn't want to spend a ton of time or money getting it 100% perfect.

If you don't feel like spending a couple days reading up on a detail forum, this was my approach after many hours of research (note: there are endless options and opinions, this is simply my go-to 80-20 process):
Total DIY cost: $150-200 ($379-429 including orbital polisher)
Total time: 1 FULL day (14 hours)

Step 1: Wash
If you haven't watched it, check out Larry Kosilla's (AMMO NYC) car wash 101 video for good technique:

It doesn't really matter what soap you use to wash the truck here (besides using something to lubricate/minimize any micro-scratches). I like to use a couple squirts of or you could just use CarPro's RESET or other car wash.
My favorite wash mitt is the (cleaned after every use, dried and kept in a plastic bag):
I normally use these

$25 Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)

Chemical Guys yellow microfiber towels - they're good and relatively cheap.
Just started using AMMO NYC's new foam blaster with the reset wash and like it a lot. Great if you want/need something portable.



TIP: I use a separate microfiber towel to go around all around the lower/dirtier parts of the truck then just throw it away. Get it all clean now so you don't contaminate a pad or towel later in the process.

Step 2: Paint correction. This can be the most time-consuming part of the whole process and really the biggest factor in its quality. My truck was on the dealer lot for a couple weeks, and I ceramic coated it about a week after purchase (the sooner the better/less work it will take to correct). Ideally you get the truck as soon as its delivered before dealer prep but thats not very realistic.
A: Clay Bar. I had a lot of contaminants in the paint and had to clay bar. Tried the new rubber/speed bar and it wasn't aggressive enough to remove contaminants. Used old-school yellow clay.
B: Compound polish. I had some deeper marring/scratches that required a compound to remove. You always want to use the least aggressive product possible. I love and generally use it with an orange/light cutting pad w/ Porter Cable orbital polisher. This is hard to beat and pretty much idiot-proof. An orbital isn't required but makes this process much easier and faster.
C: Final polish. Sometimes its necessary to follow-up more aggressive correction with a less aggressive compound to remove any light swirls. It depends on the paint, the product and your process. I skipped/didn't need this step. If you do need this step I like to follow with Meguiar's 205 and a black finishing pad w/ orbital.

Step 3: Use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) solution (IPA mixed with distilled water 50-50) one panel at a time to assure you're applying the ceramic coating to remove any leftover contaminants.

Step 4: Ceramic coat. ($55-75) (Note, the 30ml bottle is more than enough for the whole truck. I did two trucks, a couple sets of wheels, new suspension and other parts and still have a little leftover; Also, there are different formulas of CarPro CQuartz. I used this one but would try the new next time as I hear its a bit easier to apply and a bit harder once cured). Do the headlights and taillights as well. See application instructions on bottle/package and watch a video of someone who knows what they're doing. This is a good video for the UK version that shows you don't have to be afraid to do it yourself - its not that complicated:


TIP: The most important part is that you remove all the product. If you miss any or leave streaks, it will look like white wax residue and be difficult to remove once cured (you'd basically need to use a AIO polish to remove, then start again for that panel).

Step 5 (Optional): Sealant. Using the enhances the gloss and is supposed to boost the ceramic coating's durability. See directions on how long to wait to apply after ceramic coating.

Continued maintenance:

Wash: ($25): every 2-4 weeks (or more frequently depending on conditions) ($35): every 3-6 months. Spray on, wipe off. Contains silica and helps boost gloss and durability.


Summary:
I love it. Its been on the truck for about 6 months so far so I can't attest to its durability but its the same now as when I applied. In reality normal wax lasts a few weeks, regular sealant lasts a few months and a consumer-level ceramic coating is supposed to last up to 2 years.
The biggest surprise has been how much easier it is to keep the truck clean - it sheds dirt/dust/mud well and anything that does stick comes off easily.

PROS: Durabilty/long-lasting protection, ease of maintenance, looks.

CON: Up-front cost ($, time). I say upfront because if you figured on having your truck detailed every 6 months with a regular wax job, the time and $ would be higher and you wouldn't get the benefits of the ceramic coating.

Phew! sorry for the lost post.

 

Awesome information for the people who don’t know

 

For your prep wash take a look at a carwash product called Clean Slate. Don't let this scare you. I had a couple of high spots that I didn't rub off. I didn't notice them for about a week. (I keep my Taco in a shop and have other transportation for a DD.) I got scared. For no reason. A Little Essence on a black finishing pad with the orbital for only four or five seconds and it was off there. Let the Essence dry a few hours, re-apply the CQuartz, wipe off. Done. {(Well, I put a layer of Gliss on after that. If you like it after a coat of CQuartz, you won't believe it after a top layer of Gliss!)

And if you still don't want to take this on, look into Zaino Z2 or Z5. I have two coats of that on my G8. Have only done it twice in ten years. Most awesome sealant I've ever used. Looks like a deep gloss motorcycle helmet, deep clearcoat looking. In the interest of full disclosure, I think the Zaino gloss is deeper than the CQuartz gloss.

 

I just use the local car wash... you know, the one with the French fry guys spinning in circles. Good enough

 

That'll streak your paint like no other

 

It does! The front corners of the bumpers have marks. Oh well.....

 

I spend to much $ on a vehicle to then go a pay for a car wash to destroy the paint. Just my opinion