Center Support Bearing

She needs a new center support bearing. Mines the original 20 year old/210k miles, busted with play, but not a complete goner yet. Seems like after market fails a lot (<10k) from reviews, and I’m not super interested in breaking down my driveshaft on the yearly. Any experience with the durability of the center support bearings available OEM through Toyota? Or am I better off considering a custom driveshaft? I’m hoping for at least another 100k or more on a new install. No lift on her yet.

 

Spicer

 

... If the OEM one last 210k, just get another OEM one.

While you have the shaft out take it to be balanced, etc.. Probably due for u joints as well if you haven't already done them- same story on those.. OEM.

 

2nd the spicer.

$100 Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAPFD2E?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Showed up with Toyota embossed in the rubber.

 

Its not so bad....with an impact it takes less than 30min....
just buy the new one from a toyota dealer....

miatoyotaparts | eBay Stores


If the carrier is shot most likely the UJ's are past the safe point.....
Me thinks under NORMAL use these carriers last about as long as fuel pump..
its the ones that have LEFTed/ raised the rear suppension that have problems if that carrier isnt shimmed down to get it out bind......the later TRD's address this...

Other reason is failing U joint...they have about half life of the carrier(if no grease certs)....and if not caught early...they'll cause the carrier to fail too...... kinda like the bad battery/allternator cycle....

 

If you're doing this yourself, there are a few other parts you need than just the new carrier bearing:

carrier bearing: (37230)

$142 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130 x1
washer: (37230E) 90201-25006 x2
washer: (37120A) 90201-18182 x1
nut: (37120B) 90179-18009 x1



There is a specific process to re-seat the flange, and stake the nut. Follow the FSM. If you don't have one, speak up, and someone will either point you in the right direction or share a link or something.

 

And yeah they are numerous videos on this and how to point the carrier....

And dont forget mark everything with a paint pen.....put back exactly....

 

When I replaced my carrier I did not fully remove the driveshaft. I also didn’t replace any washers or that stake nut, I reused that hardware. I did follow the process to seat the flange and stake the nut. Went with an OEM CB. UJs are all tight as a snare drum still but I grease all 6 zircs at every oil change. Here’s a comparison of my original with ~135k on it at time of replacement next to the new one. It was still serviceable but I could see some sag.

 

Did you notice any difference driving once you replaced the center bearing? Mine looks similar, and I've been considering replacing it.

 

It was about two years ago and I don’t remember any drastic difference. But if I don’t need to think about it for another 20 years I’m happy. I’ll just give it the occasional ocular pat down when I’m under the truck for other tasks.

 

Any recommendations on aftermarket u joints? I was looking at the heavy duty greaseable moogs, but any other recs?

 

The Spicer bearing is the Toyota OEM one. There's a big thread on it here. Same part number and has the Toyota stamp on it. I'll dig up the thread. I installed mine about 9 months ago and going strong.

 

Also, I just went ahead and ordered the new oem carrier off eBay for $95. Should get it next week. Just gotta make decisions on the ujoints.

 

I would get the Dana u-joints, they should be greasable too.

 

I installed a part store carrier bearing (lasted less than two years). Installed a new OEM bearing (with new parts, the nut is so cheap, I don't understand why someone would skimp on that).

I also installed Moog u joints with the zerk fitting. I later on had drive line issues and went back to OEM.

I highly suggest using OEM components unless you like doing work twice.

 

For future reference, this one is a little cheaper and is the same

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-genuine-oem-carrier-bearing-for-79.583219/

Make sure to get a new stake nut as well for it. I just went to the dealer and got one for a few bucks.

 

here's the stake nut part # 90179-18009

 

Hopefully not for another 20 years XD

 

I’ll go bug the dealer for the hardware. Anyone got links to the cheaper OEM ujoints? If I find it on eBay, I’ll post it.

 

The Dana/Spicer ones on Rockauto are about $19. There's an option listed for $90 too but I'm not sure what it's for, looks to be the same part

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...4l+v6,1429084,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392