CEL came on oil control valve replacement

So my 2007 yota 4.0 is at 220k miles and my check engine light just came on. Took it straight to auto zone and had it scanned. The code was for the oil control valves. Not sure if it was the left or right but I just bought both of them and what a swift kick in the ball bag that was...300$. Any advice or threads on replacing them? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Location pics of the passenger side and drivers side would be really appreciated

 

Try here

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/code-p0022.492501/

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/00500310.pdf http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0050065.pdf

 

I don't see the reasoning of replacing both if you are unsure of the exact codes. The codes should display as bank 1(passenger side) or bank 2. From some of past threads, some had success cleaning the OCVs or OCV filters. Are you experiencing any idling or accelerating issues?

 

It just showed up on the scanner as both? I just assume change them both now. As all of us know at 220,500 miles if I fix one and it shuts the light off the other is going to be right behind it. The truck idles good every once in a while it gets a little vibration almost when it idles down. Accelerates pretty normal once in a while it has a little not hesitation but you feel a little something. Hard to explain but I got the truck at 185k so o dont know how it ran new. I think it runs very well.

 

Where are the filters located? 2 or just one? I just need to pull off the intake to get to them right? And they just pull out?

 

But the scanner showed them both. There was 2 different part numbers the computer said needed replaced. Left and right

 

I did this job on my 2005 at 500,000 km. Both valves were broken and came apart when I pulled them out. Bit of an oh shit moment but a pair of pliers pulled the rest of the valves out. Pretty much as was warned.

I think there was a thread here that I followed. Should be able to find it using the search function.

 

Ok that's what i was looking for but cant find any how to's or step by step. I might as well clean the oil control filters too right? Is there 2 filters also? If anyone has the step by step please let me know

 

Oil Control VVT Valve Locations:




Oil Control VVT Filter Screens locations.



The filter screen looks like a bolt head.

 

They seize in like a bastard, they can easily break on removal, so only remove if you have replacements.

 

should of done a little investigation before buying 300$ worth of parts. What are the chances that both valves failed on opposite sides of the motor at the same time? Just because a component is listed in a code description doesn't mean that component has failed.

Id start with fresh oil and a filter if it hasn't been changed in a while

 

Post the specific error codes reported by the scanner, e.g. P0018 or whatever.

 

I'll have to get the exact code today when I go pick the new valves up. I use pennzoil full synthetic high meager and a k&n filter. Have 2500 on that change now so I dont really think it needs changed yet?

 

Definitely pull the screen filters and spray them out with cleaner after doing the valves.

 

That's a fine oil and one of my favorites for DOHC engines given the high concentration of moly antiwear compound they include. If you've been using this or similar synthetics, and changing the oil at ~5K mile intervals, it's unlikely that you have OCV valve or filter problems. Get the error codes.

edit: I can't speak for the K&N filter either good or bad. The big nut on the case is handy on some engines. I only use Toyota YZZD3 filters for the 4.0L engine.

 

Now these filters there is 2 of them right? How do I clean them just with some air or water? Take the bolt out and they come out?

 

Thanks for the help guys. I am going to do both valves today and take out the screens and clean them. I'll get the codes today and put them on here in case this doesn't take care of the issue

 

They are a plastic and wire mesh basket design, one on the side of each head and difficult to see. Driver side requires removal of the alternator. If you remove them, get new crush washers from the dealer and torque them to spec or you'll have leakage. Attached is a pic of a new filter for reference.

However...I'm skeptical that these or the OCVs are your problem. Need the codes. Throwing parts is a hard way to diagnose.