Castle Nut Won't Go On Lower Control Arm LCA - Solved

For anyone who can't get their castle nuts back on their lower control arm ball joints, here's a quick how-to glimmer of hope. My lower ball joint threads were mushroomed out / mashed down from someone banging on them to get them out when they were removed for my long travel front kit. This was as far as they would thread on.






I had just bought new castle nuts so this thread was originally to make sure they would work even if I fixed the threads - the write up will continue in post #6. I'll leave the original first post.

(Original first post) Bought the truck used, put on aftermarket suspension kit, lost original LBJ castle nuts, bought new oem castle nuts w/ confirmed part number and have to chase some threads because the first few got boogered on my lbj's. Just want to confirm that these are oem and not copies that might have different nut / threads. Don't want to waste my time with this. The LCA's appear stock and the only markings I could find are LD and RK. What do you know about this please - much appreciated. Thank you. FYI I did not booger the threads myself. I would have been more careful.

 

They look to be stock IMO

 

Stock.

 

Muchas gracias compadres! Que tenga un buen dia!

 

def stock

 

I didn't take any pics of the messed up threads, but I'll explain my approach - the two main tools I used were:

Dremel for erasing the severely boogered threads at the top. I found a used cutting wheel was easier to control with a smaller diameter so I ground down a couple to about this size:



And a cheap set of files (Harbor Freight I believe). The one that seemed to work the most was the one with the triangle profile.



Like I said I used the dremel to get rid of the really bad threads at the top. I found the first good thread area and erased everything above it. It is important to get that first thread nice and flat on top and uniform with the rest. Here's a pic of the finished product:



The hardest part is getting the beginning of the thread. If you use patience and look carefully at what you're doing, it is possible.

Using the file is important to smooth out any messed up threads. I would work for awhile and then thread the nut on as far as it would go finger tight. I'd run it back and forth for awhile. Once I couldn't go any further I'd go back to filing and touching up the top thread if it seemed like it was holding up the show. Other than that, don't rush. I spent almost three hours on this - an oldies mix on youtube helped me remain calm

You can tell by the second one my work improved:



All in all - it's worth it. This could have been an expensive repair otherwise.

 

Couldn't find a die for that size?

 

No way to get to a store with my dd out of commission. Even with one it's a little tricky with a ball joint that will spin on you with enough torque. You could stick a metal rod through the cotter pin hole to keep it from spinning, but I found out that this isn't always a good way to go:




A well prepared person could do it more easily. It came out of nowhere

 

I see.
good job on the
"get shit done with what you have"
I like it!

 

Thanks. I was pretty happy when both threaded with only my fingers. Onto the "main project" of putting my front end back to stock

 

Uhhhh that's not how this forum operates

 

Good job. Most threads are 60 degress, same as a triangle file, or three corner file as some call it. Being a machinist, I have a bunch. Also thread files are essential.

$22 Nicholson Thread Restoring Hand File, Number 8, Metric Bolt, Thread Teeth, 8-3/8" Length (Pack of 1) (33016)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...ile+metric&dpPl=1&dpID=21z1zF9GWFL&ref=plSrch

 

08 Prerunner? I would have replaced the ball joints. Or, were these not the OEM BJs? I think I would have replaced anyways. With the LCA's off the car, they are easy to press out and back in.

 

Lol - let me finish that statement then - putting my truck back to stock to fund my first gen engine build

Thanks man I appreciate it. After this project and the engine I'm building a lot more respect for machinists - tolerances out to ten thousands of an inch and stuff take a lot of patience, skill, and experience. My dremel has seen a lot of use working on guitars so luckily I'm pretty handy with it. It's amazing how the smallest details can make or break a big project. Thanks for the thread file link - I just ordered them.

I hear you man, but they're in good shape. No play and nice and firm with boots completely intact. I'm selling this thing after my first gen is reliable enough to become my daily driver so I'm not trying to put any unnecessary funds into this one.

 

Yeah, the BJs look brand new.

 

Tap and die set would have been handy

 

So my question is how would you have used it - like I did with a metal rod (aka drill bit) through the hole to keep it from spinning?

 

Maybe a punch in the hole to keep it from turning.

 

lol alright so I'm on the right track with that. Next question - how does it locate the first thread - do you need to dress the bolt somewhat first? These threads were wavy, mushroomed, and pinched together - I'm just wondering since I've never used a die.

 

Good question...I use them at work but it's been a while since i have had to use one. let me look into that and i will get back to you.