Can I run a freezer on the Tacoma's 115v outlet?

Hi all - I was wondering if I go camping for a week and want to run a freezer off the back of the truck, will this work and how long will the Tacoma's standard battery last before I need to run the car again (with the TRD off road package). Thanks!

 

that's going to be a very small freezer.

 

No

 

And if OP is interested in that, isn't there a group buy going on for the Yetti's?

 

Doubtful. I tried a very small dorm sized fridge one time going camping and no go after switching into drive with that.

It was one of the smallest sizes maybe 2 feet high.

 

Nope, got cancled.

 

The regular freezers won't work. Freezers designed to go in your vehicle have low amperage draw.

 

To answer your question it depends on the freezer. You would be far ahead if you just got a small generator and run your appliances that way. However they do make them with very low wattage.
http://www.livingdirect.com/Freezers-Chest-Portable/Home_Appliances-Freezers,default,sc.html

 

400 watts / 110 volts = 3.64 amps Max while at idle. 400/115 = 3.48 amps max

100 watts / 110 volts = 0.91 amps Max while driving. 100/115 = 0.87 amps max




from the Walmart Website - comment from a Walmart Associate
Black & Decker Black & Decker Nucool 1.7 cu. ft.
The label specifies that the unit draws 1.1 amps. While running full blast, I've measured the fridge to actually draw more in the range of 0.85 - 0.95 Amps

Might be something to look into

This is not a freezer - only goes down to 37 degrees

 

Arb/engle/edgestar all make expedition style fridges that will work.

 

This is the correct answer- get one made for vehicle use. They're expensive, but not that much more than an overpriced Yeti and you don't have to worry about ice so you actually have the full capacity for groceries. They also have voltage sensors that shut them off when the voltage hits a certain point so that you don't kill your battery.

The inverter in the back requires the truck to be running and they're fine as long as the truck is charging, but it's not efficient to convert 12 to 120v (inverter) then back to 12v (what most expo style fridges are designed to run on). Even running off a deep cycle marine battery you will need to charge the battery at least every couple of days depending on things like usage (how often it's opened), ambient temp (higher temps require it to run more often), etc.

Personally I converted my inverter to 400w all the time; follow the write and it's very easy to do. I have an Edgestar fridge that has a dual plug system- 12v DC and 120v AC. I plug in both while traveling and it runs off the inverter while the truck is running but automatically switches to the 12v when you shut the truck off. I do this as I occasionally forget to cut the inverter back on after stopping. I have run it for two days straight in the SC summer off just a Diehard Platinum marine battery with no issues. Use an insulating cover and keep it out of the sun.

Whatever you get, be sure you secure it so it doesn't move around as the compressors like to be level. They're also heavy and you don't want them moving in a crash.

There are a ton of fridge threads in this forum:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/forums/30-Camping-Equipment

 

Thanks for the help guys. Seems like this is a no go. Much appreciated.

 

Have you measured the startup amps? Steady state amps are one thing, but the amps required to start the compressor may be 2-3x that, depending on the fridge. BTW, could also consider buying a cap to help supply the startup amps. Just a thought...