Can I bypass my ignition and install a push start

So for everyone that seen my last thread about damaged wires I still haven't gotten a solution or fixed the problem yet I haven't been able to track down what it may be I went and got a new digital meter and plan on checking the ignition wires the ignition coil if there's any other things I could check to anybody could help me with it'd be greatly appreciated once I do figure it out will I be able to install a push start? Also I replaced the battery and does anybody know anything about the linkable fuses? Also when I'm testing the wires can I test them individually with the digital multimeter and if so can somebody explain to me how I do it


Thank you to everyone who offers advice and assistance it's much appreciated

 

i thought this was solved in the last thread. you need a main harness, or at least patch the damaged wires.

this isn't x-files. more probing won't make it better.

 

You're jumping in the deep end here. A few pieces of advice.

-- Don't make new threads for existing subjects. All the folks that chatted with you in the old thread will likely not find their way here. Things just get disjointed.

-- Trying a deep dive mod like that on a vehicle these days is not for the faint of heart or newbies. My best advice is to find some old, busted gizmo from around the house and use that to learn how to use the DMM. Like an old remote control, some toy, etc. Learn resistance, continuity, and voltage checks before starting to probe your Taco.

-- Get your Taco back to functional before you mod it. You're going to need to have all the stock stuff sorted and known to do a unique mod like keyed to PTS. There has not been a single thread that I have seen where an expert has even accomplished it.

 

yep, the major questions right now is "truck won't start" is it a module(s)? fuse(s)? connection(s)? wire(s)? it could be any combination of all of those things with the unknown amount of wires that were crossed. a multi-meter is a diagnostic tool, i commend you for trying to learn, but trying to learn on this is like having a kindergartner perform rocket surgery. as was said in the last thread, there's a number of resistances within the wires that need to be accounted for. without an in-depth understanding of how a volt meter performs it's measurement, it's very easy to get values that appear correct, but are incorrect once the meter is removed from the circuit.

i known of people that have blown out bcm's just changing dome light bulbs, and you shorted the main electrical connection to multiple control modules.

first, you need to correct the main fault, the wiring harness damage. from there, we need to start checking fuses and hoping the modules weren't damaged. after all the fuses are checked and/or keep blowing, we need to check the modules for functionality. once the modules are correctly functioning, then we can start tinkering with making alterations to the system.

it's a mistake to jump ahead at any point in that process because any step skipped leaves unknown questions to the original capabilities of the systems being altered.

 

So wait....you want to start your truck by pushing it instead of using the key ignition? Seems pretty tiring, especially if you have to push it uphill.

 

Dude, you have too many self-inflicted issues with your truck. It'll be best if you just sell the fucking thing.

 

If there is anything I've learned in my 19 months here, it's when to do it myself and when to write a check to someone who knows more than I do.

 

Thanks everyone all your advice is appreciated. So I did what someone had said I tinkered around with a couple old Rc cars, then a Go-Kart. Wouldn't you know it, all that advice paid off. I printed out several schematics, Studied up on Many Electrical layouts on vehicles. And what all the different purposes each electrical conduit served and wouldn't you know it. I got the son of a b**** running everything is back in shape everything is working great. I don't know me personally. I'd rather not pay another man to fix my stuff. Regardless of how costly it might be. Or how much time it might take. The way I look at it the worst possible case scenario is I really f*** things up and have to gut every wire in the truck and learn how to rewire the entire thing. And if that would have been the case that's okay cause at the end of it. I did it myself and I learned a lot. So really it's a win-win situation if you see it all the way through or you can be weak-minded tap out sell out and pay another man to fix your problem. I just don't have that in me I'm a thoroughbred and I was raised different. I did however run into some other problems obviously due to the damaged wires there was a break override module that basically monitors and tells your truck went to start pushing on the brakes. I think there's about eight different points of sensors to tell your truck when another vehicle is too close or you're going to hit something. And that's when the assisted breaking will kick in. My other problem was the driver's control module which wasn't allowing it to start but after I ran those wires down and replaced them completely everything is up and running.

 

Simply you cant, the truck uses a smart key authentication ECU. It's designed around that. The only way to bypass it, is to permanently attach an existing transponder to the antenna, bury it. Then create a manual key with ignition. But that requires the existing setup to work.

 

Thanks man thats good to know

 

Okay but now that the starting system is working if I wanted to install a push start with the fob and whatnot. The biggest issue would be connecting everything with the electric communications unit now is the ECU the same as the ECM and I feel that the rest when installing a transponder and programming a key fob would probably be the easier end of things