Camburg UCA’s

Hello all I’m needing some input on control arms for my 2020 TRD Tacoma. I’m installing the King 2.5’s and was looking at the Camburg Uni ball UCA’s. But, I’ve read that they have a problem squeaking. Any input or a control arm you would recommend would be greatly appreciated.

 

Camburg/Total Chaos are more likely to squeak. TC UCA squeak on my Land Cruiser at all times. They are very well built though, and can take a beating.

If I had to do it again I'd go SPC, JBA or ICON w/ delta joint.

I have installed all of these on various Tacomas. SPC has the most adjustability.

 

I had Camburg on my 2nd gen. Never had any noise issues, they have 3 grease zerks and can replace ball joints with Moog part number etc. Only thing I didn't care for is the ball joints set down about 3/4" in the socket and dirt, gravel and road grim will collect there and rust the metal/powder coat if you don't keep it cleaned.

 

Any uniball can squeak due to design. I chose the JBA HD's over them for that reason + the JBA have a higher range of motion so I don't have to worry about them being the limiting factor in my suspension. Was able to get 4 degrees of caster with my 33's so I don't get any rubbing (with no cutting) unless I'm doing some serious flexing offroad. SPC's work well if you get a proper alignment guy who actually knows how to use them. I didn't want to risk the top nut on the SPC's loosening up which is another reason I went with JBA. Easily sourceable 1-ton GM BJ on those if I ever need to replace far from home.

You'll probably be happy with any quality aftermarket option - do what works best for you.

 

Get a set that corrects the CAMBER! Not a set that adds CASTER. Adding Caster will increase the need to do a CMC.

 

What? Aftermarket allows + caster which is needed to move away from cab mount.

 

-Adding Caster with UCAs actual moves your tires towards the cab mounts.
-Adding Caster with the LCA will move the tire away from the cab mount.

So you are correct if you're talking about LCA's. Not UCAs.

 

This! And he wasn't talking about LCA.

This is why SPC UCA are the best for tire clearance. Can set the LCA as forward as possible. Then play with the caster settings on the SPC's to dial in the caster and clearance.

 

If you’re going with a 2.5 coilover, then get a CMC done as well. Don’t let all these guys here confuse you. 2.5 coilover, upper control arms (Dirt King, LSK, Camburg, Baja Kits, TC), cab mount chop, alignment at around 4 degrees of caster and BAM. That’s it. Very simple and straight forward.
Honestly try to stay away from the SPC and JBA. Everyone here raves about them and how cheap they are, but they’re junk. Really. There’s a reason the more expensive uppers are priced as they are. Plus they look like shit next to top tier coilovers such as King or Fox.
Also, don’t let anyone scare you away from uniballs. I’ve had them for close to three years. No problems and no squeaks. No special maintenance required. You wash them when you wash your truck and lube them with a Teflon based dry lube such as Tri Flow after. That’s it. Sure they’re going to need rebuilding down the road. But with normal usage and maintenance, it’s not as crazy as some make it out to be. I already know people are gonna hate on this post, but fuck em. There’s a right way and a wrong way to lift these trucks. Simple as that.

 

Had a 3rd gen Tacoma customer in today. Total Chaos UCA. Came in for full skid install. When I jacked up the truck I could hear the UCA squeaking/creaking. Just like my Land Cruiser. Also have installed Camburg UCA on a 3rd Tacoma and they squeaked. The squeak im referring to comes from the polyurethane bushings. Not the Uni Ball. SPC, JBA, ICON have designed their bushings to avoid this squeak.

TC/camburg flat face bushing:


JBA bushing has relief cutouts:


SPC not using polyurethane junk that squeaks:

 

-What does 2.5 coilovers have to do with a CMC??

-I don't understand why you would try and talk someone into cutting his $40K+ Brand new truck just to fit tires that are approximately 1" larger than stock?
[33" tires can fit without any cutting of metal. (If you do it correctly, Only minor trimming of the plastic lower bumper)]

-Why would you advise anyone to set their Caster way out of OEM specs? (Do you believe Toyota doesn't know their vehicles?) Adding 4 degrees of Caster ("BAM") you will over stress your rack-n-pinion steering and lead to premature failure.

-You claim SPC are crap??? Where is your data to prove your Opinion?? (It's like bashing on a guy for upgrading to Dana axles, by saying military axles are the only way to go)

-Uniballs are awesome! 90% of the people who get them will never use them to it's potential!

-You are 100% correct! "There is a right way and a wrong way to lift these trucks" (But you think Cutting into your frame to fit a tire that already fit before you added high Caster is the right way???)

Read the links in my sig.

I try and provide good solid data to avoid unnecessary issues with your truck. There is nothing in it for me. My truck is done correctly! I can fully stuff my 33" tires on a 2" lift while turning without any rubbing!
The stock UCAs can fit the 285's with very minimal trimming of plastic. But with the 3" lift you can't get to CAMBER to the ideal setting. Adding CASTER will only create more issues!

 

Damn, somebody is a little full of themselves. And I see you got a little "Toyota engineers know best" in there for good measure.

First of all, you can fit 33's if you do it right without cutting, shows how woefully uninformed you are. The need for extra clearance with 33's is largely based on wheel offset. Pokey wheels are going to require extra chopping. So stop boasting about how yours is done correctly. It shows your ignorance (as in lack of understanding).

Toyota alignment specs are for "one finger" operation that everyone seems to want these days, not what's best. Setting it at 4-7 degrees of caster will cause the truck to track straighter (especially with over sized tires) and return to center quicker, but will require a little more effort to turn the wheel. It provides a much better feel for the road that a driver will appreciate on any vehicle. There's a big difference between a driver an a commuter.

One thing I will agree, I'm not a fan of adding caster with an upper control arm that moves the upper ball joint towards the rear. The better way would be to sell a lower control arm that moves the lower ball joint forward a half inch to an inch. But that's what's available on the market, so you work with what you've got.

 

Prove it! I can!!!

Instead of trolling and spouting out insults? Try and provide data to back your claim!
The World isn't Flat!
Sorry if you believe so!!

 

Hey OP just to get you back on point real quick, I’ve got Baja Kits uppers and they’ve never squeaked. They utilize Delrin bushings instead of poly ones. It’s a much harder compound. I just pump them full of grease every once in awhile and they’re quiet as a mouse

 

Uniball UCAs are a compromise. They were designed for racing where max articulation and strength is the priority. They absolutely require more maintenance than a traditional "ball joint" because they are unsealed and exposed. They also can make noise, especially when maintenance/lube is required.

A booted/sealed ball joint will typically last 80-100k miles or more without needing more than a couple pumps of grease every 20-30k miles, if that.

It's really that simple.

 

Dude I have 32.8” which is essentially a 33” and I didn’t do any cutting. I have stock UCAs. That’s the point. If I added either more caster or more offset I’d need to chop. I have a 16x8 0 offset. But the downside of this is that my truck doesn’t track on the freeway. It wanders. And that’s where high caster UCAs come into play. But they would require chopping for even a 32.8” tire.

 

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product...ol-arm-kit-heim-joint-ball-joint-2005-tacoma/

 

I just finished reading that. And they confirm what I have come to understand. The high caster correction is so the truck tracks better. And the ideal design would be an upper control arm that improves positive caster while also pushing the LCA forward to move it away from the cab mount. And that’s what their control arm does. I think the SPC can achieve the same.

 

The person you just replied to was arguing the same points in different words.

 

Not sure. The way everyone explains this makes it more confusing. There is a reason why everyone misunderstands the whole UAC high caster thing. Everyone gets those to clear tires but I had my tech put more caster via the lower control arms so I never needed after market UACs. Everyone says something else on this topic and it’s confusing.