Camber cam adjustments

I'm new to this forum and I've been looking around at how to move the cam on the Lca to change camber/caster but I can't find anything. Most of the write ups I found say how to measure and do your own alignment but nothing about moving that cam/washer. I'm guessing there is a special tool since the washer has that hole in it that is probably to adjust it.
So my problem is the lca bolt was loose and I think it moved that cam all the way in or out and now my tire is cocked at like 60 degree positive camber angle. I am going to get it re aligned at a shop but the tire is so crooked it isn't safe to even drive to the shop. So I'm just trying to get it straight enough to safely drive it there.
Thanks in advance for any help and if there is a forum about this same topic feel free to heckle me and tell me to look harder.

 

How about some pics? You sure the tie rod isn't bent?

 

I just replaced the tie rods so they should be good. I can upload some pics of my truck later. But here is a pic of the washer/ cam adjuster just to clarify what I'm talking about

 

I think you just loosen the backside then use a socket to turn the bolt/cam?

 

I am pretty sure the problem is it just needs to be adjusted. It was pretty much hand tight and I got an alignment a few months ago but haven't been driving it much. So I'm guessing they didn't tighten it all the way when they adjusted it or it was loose the whole time and they didn't even touch it when they aligned it.

 

So when you turn the bolt it turns the washer?

 

Figured it out how to adjust it was the back side of the bolt that was pretty dumb question. I moved the camber but the wheel is still way off I'm thinking the upper ball joint is shot, would that mess with the camber?

 

A worn out upper balljoint could throw off the camber but it would have to be really bad to throw off your camber a lot. You should check the ball joint for play. Here's a video that shows one technique of checking the balljoint for play. In the video, we're checking the lower balljoint but just be watching the upper balljoint while your rocking the tire with the pry bar.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rteeAOQlrKY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

For the camber adjustment, use your non-affected side as a template and see where the cam plates are and try to match the affected side to the same adjustment. With the full weight of the vehicle on the tires, it's hard to make the necessary adjustments. Jack up the affected side and take most of the weight off the tire and you can then make your corrections with the cam adjusters. If your vehicle was correctly aligned not too long ago, I'm sure you can get it close by eyeballing it so you can drive it until you can get to the alignment shop. I've now done 4 "driveway alignments" after lifts and lower control arm bushings replacements and I was pretty close to spec just by eyeballing it. You basically want the tires perpendicular to the ground which would be a neutral camber. If the tops of the wheels are jutting out from the fenders, that's positive camber and if they are leaning in towards the fender that's negative camber. After you make an adjustment, lower the vehicle to the ground and drive it up and down your driveway and then see how it looks because when you initially lower the wheels onto the ground, the suspension won't be completely settled until you move the vehicle a short distance.

Good luck!

 

Pic of the wheel??

 

I figured it out got her straightened out, thanks for all the help! It's good enough to get it aligned at the shop hopefully they don't leave that bolt loose, I'm not going back to that shop. I think the upper ball joint is good just cleaned it up

 

I've been to two shops that left my camber bolts loose - the alignment stayed in spec, but man did the suspension squeak like a mother. The second place told me that's what all trucks sound like when you have modified suspension

Just buy a torque wrench and you can double check other people's work. There are some less than careful people that work on vehicles out there from shade tree mechanics to dealership techs - no one will pay as much attention to your truck as you.

 

Amen Brother. I had a get-together of 4runner folks at my place yesterday and one guy popped his hood and found out the shop that changed his oil didn't replace the oil fill cap and the funnel was still sitting in the oil fill hole.

I prefer to do all my own work if possible. I do get my tires balanced and rotated at America's tires though and the idiot doing my last rotation lifted my rig on the driver side on the step. Bent it pretty good but I was able to bend it back. I complained and they offered me a discount on my next set of tires which I accepted. I now bring a torque wrench with me when I pick up my rig and double-check the lug nuts before I drive off.

 

Yeah definitely have to double check their work. I actually have a automotive technology degree so it makes it handy to have the knowledge to fix it yourself. I got quoted 650 to replace upper ball joints not paying for that.. it's cool to see how much you can save by doing it your self. Im gonna l get new tires before I get it aligned or try a at home one This forum has some good write ups on it.
Any recommendations on good m+s all terrian tires to fit the stock 16 inch rim?

 

Wow, that seems like robbery for nothing but upper ball joints. I’m about to do mine, and they were $22 apiece (retail) at the local parts store.

Strangely, the part numbers were different between left and right.

 

Hopefully they are quite experienced after 7 years