Cab Rack + Bed Rack = 1 Flat Rack ? Can it be done?

Hi- I have a 3rd gen double cab short bed that currently has a TracRac setup with some custom mods, but it keeps breaking. I'm a residential contractor and haul a significant amount of lumber on the top of my Tacoma. I have an additional crossbar mounted to my cab. A dozen 16' pieces of lumber is the norm for me.

I am looking for a full replacement of my current setup. This will most likely be a cab rack + a bed rack & matching rails at the same height as the cab. I have been reviewing Victory4x4, Prinsu, CBI, upTop, etc... and I like most everything I see. I am struggling to confirm some dimensions though...

The most important thing to me is one continuous roof rack height from the cab onto the bed. Just like my current setup. I need a flat plane for lumber.

It seems many have done this with a fiberglass camper shell, but not with a full height bed rack. A camper shell would not work for my purposes.

I am very open to mixing and matching brands with some spacers / fabrication.

TIA

 

Why not a lumber rack?
https://www.discountramps.com/truck...Pp6qMiK6X7WhNB40Noo4lmGxyPF-ePYRoC4R0QAvD_BwE

 

What exactly keeps breaking?
Keep in mind that the rear bed moves & twists independently from the cab. If you've secured your load to all 3 cross bars (as you should), this is going to introduce forces to the rack elements that they're not really designed for. Particularly if you're traveling over uneven terrain.
The disadvantage for you is the short bed. While the lumber rack that Ghostdrifter88 suggests is better (although the pic shows a long bed), with 16' lumber you may have some excessive front and/or rear overhang, and a significant proportion of the weight will be imposed on the front of the bed.

 

Contact the company - Rack-it...they make pipe racks for Tacoma composite beds (short bed and long bed)
They have a dealer in Honolulu....

My son was looking for one...but not sure how to send to the Big Island. So he said let’s wait...
I no longer have name of Hawaii dealer..

they have these brackets that will hold down pipe rack to floor of the truck bed (4)..connect bed rails to floor bed mounts..( see video on RACK-IT..)
Thule racking type systems..alway comes loose..my son finally took them off...Off roading on the Big island..”whew”. Mainly for fishing poles...
Have you try making permanent connection poles to front roof rack to rear Thule racks (boxing) it.?
Aloha

 

have you used the factory roof rack as crossbars like its intended and that did not work that's why you added that extra crossbar? I see in your pictures the lumber sits flush in all racks, but for some reason my eyes make me feel the front is higher with the crossbar on top of the factory bars.

Also the part you say keeps breaking,, is it the factory cross bars are popping up? I feel that would happen with the flex of the lumber slightly bouncing, since your securing it to the top bar only. on the factory roof rack there are some small Anker points try that next time. you can see them from the inside of the system. not sure if they are strong enough to hold that kind of lumber.

** as soon as the sun comes up a bit more I can take a pic

 

Where you located, I got a rack on my truck that may work and I’m looking to sell.




pics in my thread starting here, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/smokey-bear-2017-dcsb-v6-mt-mgm.458673/page-2#post-14978230

 

Home made bed rack and Yakima roof rack at the 'same' level was used for hauling treated 16' 2x8s this past year. First 8, then 7 on next trip.

Only had to go less than 4 miles each trip, back roads at the camp in Pa. 4 ways on and SLOWWWWW. No issues either trip.

Would I haul from home to camp like this with the independent flex of the bed and cab (90+ miles) ABSOLUTELY not. Would I do the 4 mile trips again, SURE.

So, I guess it depends on how far you have to go and what kind of roads you would be driving on as to how it would work.

As mentioned. why not get a dedicated lumber rack (over the cab style)??

 

The lumber rack does seem like the obvious choice. I carry 500-1500 lbs often and enjoy the weight bearing directly on the cab. I'm an engineer by education, and a builder by profession... Cantilevers are fun and cool, but when hauling half a ton of lumber above my roof line at 50mph.. I prefer to have something cab mounted.

 

The TracRac upright has a top "cradle" that has 2 bolts that clamp into the bottom of the crossbar. I have sheared more of these bolts than I want to admit. I always replace them with the hardest bolt I can find, but that just makes it more of a challenge when they break again.

I can drive up to 100 miles / day on decent roads, but I have a lot of railroad crossings. I think these crossings have contributed to my wear and tear.

 

Initially I was using the factory cab rack as intended, but since I carry more than 1k lbs fairly often I decided they were not up for the job. They work great but I wanted more up there. I added the crossbar later and the rubber mount (yakima) ended up adding 1/4"+ to the height of the front crossbar. You have a good eye! Surprisingly it is a non issue when loading lumber. I will take a look at the factory mounts. I actually use the floor bed mounts in the bed and loop over the crossbars. It is much easier to release them when I need to.

 

I really like your setup. In fact it is pretty close to what I have been dreaming up. I can tell you with my current setup I did a few runs of 2x8x16s last month and I was carrying 12-18 of them per trip. Granted this is what I do on a daily basis so my comfort level is likely much higher... but I'm curious if there is anything you can share that held you back from carrying more? Any concerns from the bed rack creaking & groaning?

I avoid interstates with anything more than a couple 2x4s on top. But with my current setup I carry 500-1500 above the roofline at speeds up to 55mph. And truth be known I often bundle everything up to 1 side if I can. I have had no issues with regards to stability or drivability.

 

I had a TracRac on my '89, but it had a full-length rail on the bed side. The cross member that I would load also had 45 degree braces between the upright and the cross member. I never had any issues and carried some pretty heavy loads on the rack both on and off road.
Given the way yours is attached to the bed side and the lack of a brace, I suspect there a lot more side-to-side flex at both the bottom of the upright and at the connection between the upright & cross member. Crossing railroad tracks at a bit of a skew would definitely create some side-to-side sway. That's probably what is shearing the bolts.
You might consider strapping from the upright-cross member joint diagonally down to the bed floor tie-downs - on both sides (creates an "X") to combat the side-to-side sway. Do this both front & rear and I'd bet you don't get a rerun. Gotta tighten the straps equally though - just a tad better than snug.

 

OP: MAIDEN VOYAGE! Hadn't carried anything this heavy on my rack set up until the 2x8s. So, I wasn't sure how everything would work out. And being less than a 4 mile trip each way, I didn't need to push it, though I think I could have easily done all 15 in one trip.

The bedrack is home made by me - first MIG welding attempt ever and the 5" risers to get it level with the Yakima racks are just drilled/bolted through the rack tubing.

No longer have the Yakima racks - gave them to my son for his skiing/kayaking adventures with his new Ranger. My bedrack can handle any Yakima accessories - has the crossbars already. ALL floor joists are replaced at camp, so no need to haul any more 16' treated lumber (the local lumber yard there has no 14' treated lumber ever). KNOCK ON WOOD!!!!!

 

OP: a few more pics

 

1,500 lbs, you need a trailer!
Add all your other tools and supplies, and you've got to be overloaded by a lot. Especially since it's going to be top heavy.

 

Another thought....add a second matching roof rack like I did. Your initial pic looks like you didn't bind the front of the load over the roof?? Maybe bind over the roof not as snug as over the bed, allowing for a slight bit of independent movement - try small scale for short distance first???