Cab Mount Chop v Cab Mount Relocate (CMC V CMR)

Hi,

When adding larger tires I see a lot of posts regarding bypassing a CMC altogether and moving straight to a CMR. Understanding that for 34+ tires a CMR is somewhat of a necessity assuming you want to avoid (most) rubbing.

Also it’s my understanding that all CMR hardware and design isn’t the same. (Some better/stronger/safer) than others.

For all the reasons mentioned above I’m thinking about a CMR to accommodate my (soon to be) 34” tires.

My question to you good folks who know and understand this stuff far better than me: How safe is CMR hardware when done right? Thoughts on the DRT hardware v all the others. At the moment DRT seems to have the strongest overall option.

Any help here would be appreciated.

Thank you,

Nathan

 

I'm not going to speak to which is better, but this video shows how much force the cab mount is designed to handle. Hint It's not just there to hold the cab.

Watch the cab mount closely in the slow-mo.

https://youtu.be/eouRDQ417mU

 

Who cares about safety when you can get a LIFT. Also clearly it is safer to get the cab ejected to be clear of the accident.

 

Thanks for weighing in, fellas.

@drtfabrication - I doubt this is a pond you want to wade into but thought it worth a shot. You know the capabilities of your product better than anyone. Will the DRT CMR if installed correctly deflect in a similar manner to the existing cab mount in addition to properly supporting the vehicle?

 

Once you got big daddy tires any offset crash you will just run right over the mofo who crossed into your lane.

 

Here come the keyboard litigators!

 

Never heard of DRT till now. Looked on there site at the CMR.
Product looks good and well made from the pictures.
The material and large foot print will out perform the frame in that location.
It's all going to be dependent on your welds and the heat effected zone on the frame.

If done right I would have no problems with it, but that's me. I'm also a certified welder, steel fabricator, and CWB weld inspector here in Canada.

I make no claim in doing so.

 

I was wondering the same thing. What the real difference and benefit is between them.

 

@Charger92 - This is very helpful! Thank you! I know so little about this kind of thing. In the research I’ve done, most of not all people with similar backgrounds to yours have a similar sentiment. If welded properly, this should be just as strong and capable in this way as the existing cab mount. To your point the actual hardware is only one piece of the puzzle, the weld is equally important.

Thank you again! Will take every chance I can get to say how grateful I am to this forum and generous members like yourself. Hope all is well in Canada!

 

I have 34s and am not anywhere close to needing a relocation. CMC and a good alignment (3.5+ caster), and a lot of plastic trimming

 

I really don’t thing you need a relocate for 34s, I think this more aggressive chop will clear 35s

 

Thank you, both! You’re right, if I can avoid altogether it takes the question off the table. Do you fellas do much off-roading? If so, any rubbing then when fully extended? Understanding that all CMCs aren’t the pinch weld work, and plastic trimming is also a big part of the process.

 

Just keep cutting plastic till it doesn't rub anymore. Good UCAs and alignment is crucial. I was rubbing with 255s and a shit alignment and did CMC, pinch weld, plastic. With proper caster went to 285/75/17 and still have plenty of room. 0 offset 8" wheels help too. The more negative the offset the more problems. CMR if going 37s

 

I have 34s. with a the right suspension, bump stops, CMC, and hammering the pinch weld/fire wall you should be ok.

 

Thank you! I probably should have mentioned my wheels are a -25mm offset. I have SPC UCAs so I’m hoping that gives the necessary flexibility in that way.

Your photo answered my off-roading question. Thank you!

 

probably do an aggressive CMC then and cut fenders

 

The adjustability of the SPCs will help alot with gaining clearance. Just be sure to take your truck to an alignment shop that actually knows how to adjust them. Ideally an offroad shop that understands how a high caster alignment works gaining tire clearance.

Cheapo tire/lube places like Firestone won't even touch the SPC adjusters. They'll just crank the stock cams to get it as close as they can to OEM spec and send you on your way. Most of them won't even do a high caster alignment if you request it, they'll only align to OEM spec.

 

I have the Alpine designs CMR kit had it done right before I made the jump to 35's, the DRT one wasnt out when I purchased my kit though it does look more stout IMO but I am not jumping my truck so the Alpine designs one is plenty beefy. I am running 35x12.5x17 tires now and I no longer rub the cab mount but I do slightly rub the firewall but with running 34's your mileage will vary, this will also depend on the UCA's you're using and how much caster you can get out of them as well. Additionally I did have to trim my fenders as I rubbed both front and rear when fully stuffed. Honestly I think you'd be fine with any of the CMR kits out there now.

 

So I have a pair of 295/75/17’s with a -35mm for a wheel, I had to do a cab mount relocate. I trimmed the pinch weld, cut plastics and run spc’s for uppers. I have not had to trim fenders yet but I don’t typically wheel that hard so it has not been an issue.

 

I just had this done about 3 weeks ago on my pro. I went with the standard bushings. About a week after the install, I have very noticeable creaking sound coming from the mounts when I accelerate and under hard braking? Any ideas? I tried to torque the bolts, but they just spin with the torque wrench. Please help. Thanks!