C4 Rear Bumper Hitch Rating?

I'm looking to armor up and chrome delete my truck, but I don't want to lose much towing capacity.

I'm really liking the look of the rear bumper C4 offers, but can't find info on if the hitch is rated or if anyone has tested its limits on their own. Anybody on here know, or have some good alternatives to suggest?

 

If it does not have a SAE class rating then it was never tested for tow strength. Doesn’t mean you can’t tow something but if you rip it out of the bumper they will simple say it wasn’t rated to do that, not our fault. Personally I wouldn’t tow with something that doesn’t have a SAE certified class rating. But that’s me. I’m sure plenty of guys have their bumper someone should chime in.

 

I tend to agree, but if enough people have hauled 5000+lbs many times over with it, then I'd still consider it.

 

Only tow rated aftermarket bumper i know of:
https://www.4xinnovations.com/2005-2015-Tacoma-Bolt-On-Rear-Bumper_p_61.html

 

This looks excellent, unfortunately they don't appear to ship to Canadian addresses.

I'm also liking the DV8 rear bumper, which uses the factory hitch.

 

Almost as if they completely ruined the point of having a steel bumper in the first place, to reduce weight by integrating the stock two piece design into one solid unit
that also raises ground clearance

awesome

Exactly

-never seen a tow hitch ripped out the bumper
-fab companies do not rate it because that costs unnecessary money
-fabbers/welders understand weld strength, penetration, and structural integrity
-everyone with a steel bumper has towed with it
-the stock hitch is cheapshit, and Toyota paid to have it rated because they are a big rich company with a lot of them, and can simply charge the customer for that included in the truck price
-I towed with one, and did not have a problem
-some fab companies revise their bumper design. Nobody is going to test it again after a minor change
-it is just like import crash testing. NHTSA will say that for you to import the wagon version (D-pillar) of the identical car you already sell here, you have to take 10 of that model in driving configuration and crash it head first into a wall at 50mph, which not every company wants to do especially if the model will not sell a lot. Steel bumpers do not sell a lot either. They do not sell thousands per year. Most people do not drive Tacomas or mod them.


Fantastic post

Not everyone is going to open up the old Trust Fund and spend thousands on movers because they "Don't Feel Comfortable" to pull a $60 U-haul trailer with a hitch (half the point of having a truck)

OP are you looking to armor up? Or you got crashed into
Because if you wait until you get crashed into, they will pay for it, and you won't care
The decision comes on a)What you can afford and b)What looks good in all the comparative aspects
A dual swingout costs more than a non
And if you do get crashed into, you will not think twice about it. Because a steel one will make it so the next month when someone in your apartment complex decides to back into the truck, it will not leave an indentation on the otherwise clean truck like it did on a stock bumper. Instead, nothing will happen to the steel, and their Hyundai will be crooked.
This is really just a matter of time. Usually what'll happen is you'll be sitting at a red light. Car comes from behind. Not looking. Smack to the back. Cue excuse to follow "I spilled my drink"
Next step bumper

-welder strong enough to weld it
-strong metal (steel)
-strong dimensions/design
that's probably all there is to it
It's not towing a Boeing 747
the small weak slow engine will not tow as much as a diesel

 

It's nothing urgent or necessary for me. Mostly, right now, I just want to replace my dented up stock bumper and get rid of the chrome. But over time I'm looking to get the full tuxedo.

Already have heavy duty leafs in the back.

 

I have a few thousand miles towing a 5,50lb trailer attached to a Bruteforce Fab bumper. I isn't rated but it's plenty beefy when compared to the factory receiver and I inspect the welds before each trip.

 

brakes / braking ( stopping ) are a Major factor in towing no one EVER considers

the hitch & bumper of little concern if the owner Does NOT exceed the Frame construct

exceeding 500lb hitch weight simply is NOT smart...............thats 2 overweight pals standing on bumper/hitch

the Curt recently installed has a rating 9000lb

the prev toyota hitch not labled had a dozen 1/2 inch frame mounting points

a 500lb hitch weight is NOT going to overwhelm a frame hitch with a doz 1/2 bolts

the frame might actually bend tho

 

Exactly the sort of testimonials I'm looking for.

 

didnt say it couldnt be done

facts are the frame isnt rated for that weight

the brakes on Taco not adequate even with a controller to running hi way speeds

the set up in respone #8 the trailer could easily weigh as much as the p/u

it certainly weighs more than my SR on certified scales

fact / physics weight follow weight........................

gaining consensus to tread on jeopardy is ez to get permission

no tellin how much a Taco could tow if a person just wanted to get away with it

week ago a 20ft boat / trlr parted company I95 middle of richmnd va state capital rush hr traffic

took hours to remedy

true he got a citation

 

Regardless of all that.
The Taco is rated for 6500lbs, I'd like to replace my bumper and keep that, or at least a Class 3 rating.

So considering, in Canada, I can't get the only off road bumper with an official rating, my only options are either get bumper that works with the factory hitch. Or get one with a built in hitch that multiple owners have tested the limits of.

Any other bumper suggestions?

 

Honestly, take the rant from Road Dog with a grain of salt. When someone says that the truck can't stop the weight or the trailer will be heavier than the truck it's a red flag that they are full of

My aftermarket bumper uses the same number of bolts as the factory tow hitch. The factory bumper is bolted to the factory hitch. When you remove the hitch, the new bumper is going to use the same mounting points as the hitch that was removed. The bigger concern is the reinforcement on the aftermarket bumper and the quality of the steel and welds.

Set the weight distribution hitch height so it doesn't lift the truck when you are on the brakes and transfers weight off the rear axle of the tow vehicle. Use your brain when you load the trailer so you have proper hitch weight. Set and test the brake controller and don't drive like an asshat.

The Tacoma sucks gas when towing. Use the fuel ups as a chance to stretch the legs and stroll around the truck and trailer. Test the trailer brakes every time you start the truck and occasionally when underway.

If you're towing any distance, keeping the trailer in the 3,500 to 4,500lb range will be an easier tow than bumping up to the limit. My last trailer pictured above was 5,500lbs and 24ft. It was a dual axle with brakes on each axle. Plenty of additional stopping power for the weight.

Semi trucks regularly have trailer weights significantly higher than the weight of the truck. Sure the physics aren't in your favor but they regularly travel millions of miles without incident.

 

I thought it looked big. That's over a thousand lbs heavier, and 6' longer, than anything I intend on towing regularly. (Still trailer hunting)

 

See the Towing forum Towing | Tacoma World

Stock bumpers even with a hitch can get hit or bumped coming off steep angles and not much reinforcement out there so they flex up and take the taillight out. Been there.
Hitch receiver good for dragging over rocks and if you leave the spare underneath it somewhat protects it. Have to move the 7 pin into the bumper or it gets wiped out too.
So depends on your use. I've towed over 6500lbs on a loaded 26 ft trailer and it sucked gas 8-12 based on your speed. Tends to eat the rear wheel bearings and diff too.

A good steel aftermarket bumper with stock hitch works for many if not a rock field/ledge crawling guy. High clearance ones where you cut the body off behind the rear wheels gives best clearance but should move the spare then. I've asked a few builders on tow rating and no rating as you have seen.

Trailer - get the smallest lightest you can live with as even a 17-18 ft bunkhouse sleeps 6 and at 3000 lbs you will be much happier.

 

rant ????

its against the law in my state both instances

if U r talking about what U can get away with...................U r king

few people can strap their equal weight to their back

run

jump

stop

as they would if the were barefoot pregnant

in/after an accident a cursory investigation by an insurance with an overweight combo

might leave one in grief

here mid atlantic we see crap on the shoulders I95....81.....64....many tryin to make every coastal location

with fried spindles.....bad hitches......vacations ruined

 

What instances are you referring to that are against the law? Towing a trailer that is heavier than the tow vehicle is not illegal as long as you are not over GVWR.