Buying from CarMax, 2009 90k, what to check for?

Through CarMax, I'm having a manual transmission TRD OR, 2009, with 93k miles transferred to my local dealer that I'm looking to buy. CarMax offers a 5-day full refund if you change your mind for any reason, and a 30-day warranty. I'm thinking if I buy it after the test drive, I'm going to take it to my local Toyota dealer and pay out of pocket for a 90k maintenance (looking at the items, it is about 50% inspections) the next day, and skip paying for any extra service the dealer might try to sell me. Depending on what they find, I might reject the vehicle, or talk to CarMax about warranty service. I don't think I'm good enough to spot anything myself that isn't blatantly obvious. Does this sound like a good plan?

Other info: Vehicle history report is clean, 1-owner, only item of note is "transmission service" in September this year, truck was registered in Montana it's whole life, coming from Seattle-area CarMax. My local CarMax is in Pleasanton, CA--about 45 minutes away from my home and where my local dealer is.

 

Rust.

 

Don’t buy from carmax, the fact that you can’t negotiate tells me you’re being ripped off

 

Anytime I even think of buying a vehicle..
I always set up or just test drive the vehicle to a trusted mechanic who is independent from sale. Then I get a 150 (or whatever they offer) point inspection. Can cost $50 + but then you know all issues and usually helps in negotiations especially since maine has a law that once seller knows issues they must disclose to all future buyers. Usually then they just want to get rid of you and the vehicle.

Not sure your state has that law or if you can negotiate with. Carmax but still...get independent inspection BEFORE PURCHASING

 

Carmax is zero negotiable. They have a set price and that's it.

 

Ask for a copy of the Carfax on the vehicle, then use the VIN to look up the vehicles history on Toyota.com before committing to buy. Also ChemDawg's advise on a vehicle inspection is excellent if they will allow it.
Look for frame rust and signs of unreported accidents by checking body lines, under the hood for evidence of replaced fenders . Pay close attention to fender attach points and bolts for differences from original factory parts. Also check out the paint for area's of mismatch such as faint color differences and/or orange peel that would indicated a repair area.
A test drive is a must, try to get it onto dirt and test the 4 wheel drive engagement and operation. Listen carefully for strange noises and humming while traveling in 2 wheel drive at 55 to 60 MPH. Try to drive over a rough road and listen for unusual suspension noises.
Good luck.

 

I would definitely take a look at the frame, and make sure it's not too rusted out. Working at a Toyota dealership in the midwest, I have seen a lot of Tacoma frames replaced in the last year because of rust. That's an expensive job.

 

I always heard that the CarMax warranty is great coverage. I just checked their site and it's only 30 days, (60 in some states) and you have to purchase the 'MaxCare Service Plan' to get extended coverage, just like any other dealer. Not sure what that would cost you but combined with their no haggle (high) price I wouldn't think worth it.

BITF I perused stories from the guy who bought a Range Rover at Carmax and used the warranty many times, and definitely was worth the purchase

https://jalopnik.com/carmax-just-paid-another-514-85-to-fix-my-range-rover-1746862325

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll do my best to take a good look per Jlarso01 & others, and do what I can on the test drive. Since I have 5 days to return for a full refund, I can do a more thorough inspection and test drive the next day on my own right away.

Reading ChemDawg's suggestion, I called the Toyota dealer and they said they offer an inspection where they run the diagnostics and put it up on a lift and check everything, thought it costs $189. I'm not confidant I'd spot a potential danger sign on my own, so I think I'll schedule that within 5 days of vehicle pickup.

As for CarMax being high priced with used vehicles--I know. But I had a real hard time finding a TRD-OR DC SB with a manual transmission. I tried three times with two different Toyota dealers for a new one, and each time they couldn't get anything for me. I actually had not one, but two dealer trades fall through. Stunning incompetence from those guys. I can't deal with that idiocy anymore, so I decided to try to find a used one. There isn't much selection. CarMax is the bets option in my situation.

 

I bought my 2008 Tacoma from Carmax in 2011 with 55k miles on it for a great price. Sold the truck earlier this year with 150k miles, trouble free except for a Toyota warranty replacement of the drive shaft. Yes, they are non-negotiable, but you pretty much know what you're getting into before you even drive to the store so you can decide if you like the deal or not without having to talk to a person.

 

For me I don't like the set pricing but for their vehicle I do not know of anyone that has regretted their purchase.

 

I have bought 1 truck from Carmax and although they don't haggle on the price you can get them to fix blemishes if you push them hard enough. It worked for me as I had them buff out a couple surface scratches and do some minor paint touch-up. It's about all that they will budge on. Good luck with your purchase.

 

Shitty Toyotas are hard to find but they do exist. Be patient and you'll find a clean one.

 

It is worth the price. I did the same when I purchased my 2009 SR5 this summer. They found that I needed new cv axles and a couple more small things, I got the quote to have everything fixed by Toyota and I was able to substantially get the price reduced from the private seller.

 

I have bought two cars and sold 3 to them. Never a real problem. One car I bought I found some stuff two days later and they was not going to fix it. So I told them ok. I will be returning the car then. They fix everything I needed done.

 

I was wondering today, how much rust is too much (the truck is still in transport right now)? The truck in question is from Montana. Consider I am paying a relatively high-dollar amount for this truck, so I have every right to expect very good condition. My 2007 Frontier that has been in California it's whole life, doesn't have the slightest lick of rust anywhere on the frame. All there is, is a very smooth coat of oxidation on the drive shaft and exhaust piping.

I ask because I see some pictures on this forum or elsewhere online, and some people say it is probably okay. But those trucks I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole. Like I said, rust pretty much doesn't exist in the part of California I live in.

 

Take it to a mechanic that you can trust.

They’ll shoot you straight and the dealership will let you know.

Rust is going to exist considering where it came from, but that doesn’t mean it’s worthless.

 

Good plan for you it seems.There is not that much negotiating for these trucks wherever you find them.Most of us pay top dollar for them...If it's what you want,get it.Use the warranty all you can but w 90K there will be things you'll have to fix after & anyway-but by then she'll be yours & you'll want to do these things.Good luck.i

 

I haven't seen this 90k Tacoma that I asked to be transferred yet, still waiting. But I looked at a friend's Tacoma that was purchased new in 2002 and that has about 135k miles (90% in California), and it has virtually no frame rust, only a little surface rust in one spot. Any other rust spots are insignificant, like on the connectors for the side steps, or the exhaust. Then I see the pictures on this website of the really bad ones of vehicles that should have the frame replaced. So naturally I wonder where in between is the line that should be drawn? So like people in this thread are saying, I'll take it to a local mechanic if I'm not sure.