Brake lines

I have a 2009 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro 4x4 and the brake lines rusted through last weekend. I have done some searching but with no success.

What’s the best thing to do here. Buy brake line and fittings and do it myself? If so where can I find everything I will need all the fittings and length of line needed.

Or buy lines all ready to go with fittings on them? If I go this rout where would I find the pre made lines?

I have went to an auto parts store and I was told they can sell me the lines but I would need to do some digging to figure out what fittings I would need.
I also went to a Toyota dealer and they quoted me over $400 dollars just for the 4 main lines.

On top of all tgatvwhat is the best line to use? Stainless, copper nickel mix or something else ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Get a frame inspection at the dealer. If you qualify for a free frame, you also get new brake lines.

 

I had my frame inspection during the winter it passed. So it’s not getting fixed that way. Thanks for the idea though.

 

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/
I have used this site to source parts I bet you can find OEM brake lines good luck

 

Welcome to TW.
@HeadStrong Off-Road should have what you need for parts. Tools, hammer, long flat head screwdriver and a line wrench. 10, 12 or 14 mm (cant remember) then you.
Then search Google...
How to bleed brakes on a Tacoma Tacomaworld
Start reading.

 

If you're going to bend your own, go with cupronickel. Google Cunifer brake lines. That'll be the last set of lines you'll put on the truck. Bends and flares easily too. Only lines, I'd buy pre-made are stainless steel as the need a special hydraulic flaring tool. If you happen to be in CT, send me a pm and I'll show you how to make you own lines.

 

I don’t know how to reply to individual comments but. If I am wrong on the model I apologize. Would it just be a TRD? I know it has the off-road package on it.

As for going OEM parts that’s where I was quoted the very high price and the were not stainless lines.

I will check those links and look into cunifer. The hardest part is going to be figuring out what fittings I need. Unless someone knows an easy way to do that.

 

A quick Google search (2009 Tacoma brake fitting size) looks like it's M10-1.0. A local NAPA store should be able to tell you as well.

 

The auto parts store I went to was NAPA they weren’t much help. Said if I can figure out what I need they can get it.

 

There is also @gunny1005
You can PM him with Vin number and parts description. He will get part numbers for you and a quote on price... he is Camelback toyota parts guy.

 

Ok, auto zone lists the thread on the rear wheel cylinders and the front brake hoses as M10-1.0 thread.

 

The one that rusted through is the rear drivers side. It goes from back to about under the drivers door. But all lines look not far behind.

Obviously I am not used to working on vehicles but the price to get it done at a shop is too high. So I am going to try and figure it out. Once I get the fittings and lines I think the hardest part will be connecting and bleeding them properly.

M10x 1 fittings and 3/16 line. I’m thinking I’ll go with the copper nickel line I have only heard one bad thing about them but not sure if it’s true. But one person said if you ever need to undo a fitting good luck and that the line will twist all up.

 

I've never had a problem with cupronickel and have put them on a several vehicles over the last 10 years. If possible, buy or rent a hand vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. It'll get you pretty close to air free if not all the way. You'll want a fresh quart of brake fluid. Don't let the master cylinder go empty.

 

As opposed to... steel? That'll rust and do the exact same thing? Never heard that of copper-nickel before.

I've put brake lines on plenty of trucks, and if the dealer told me they'd do the bulk of them for $400, I'd jump on it. I usually charged 8 hours to do Silverados. They're not terribly hard to do, but I'd let someone else do it if they really meant $400, including materials. Of course if I could get a new frame and get new factory lines for $0, I'd do that too!

 

Don't mean to discourage you but this is not exactly a job for someone that is new to turning a wrench. Do you have a friend or family member that has some more experience working on vehicles (specifically brake systems) that can help you out?

 

The quote from the dealer for over $400 was for parts only no labour. The parts being only the 4 main prefabricated factory lines.

I’m thinking if I can at least get the lines in place yes I could get some help bleeding them by someone with more experience.

 

Most auto stores loan the suction brake pump to pull fluid thru the lines to where you are at - instead of pumping the pedal. Remember to keep that ignition key out of the truck during all brake work as an empty master cylinder will trip the ABS module. Not hard work but can be messy and when connecting the lines get the threads started straight and do not force or cross thread. When I did my last brake job on my 09 I changed out the rubber flex lines for stainless also. Your rear wheel cylinders maybe full of crud so bleed till clean or replace. Front calipers when compressed and taken out will blow a lot of the old fluid out just use brake cleaner spray on the seals before you compress them (push back in). Buy a set of brake wrenches (open end but grab more sides and have a line slot to get on) first so you don't strip out any heads on bleeders or lines you want to reuse.

 

Getting fully premade lines in place is *usually* waaaaay more work than fabricating them on the truck, for one who knows how to flare lines. Equally important if your truck is rusty, that extra work is removing a bunch of stuff, which means you're probably going to break plenty of bolts.

I watched my old boss spend a couple days, and a bunch of new parts to replace rusty stuff that broke, putting a GM kit in an Avalanche... that I could've fabricated and had bled in under 8 hours. Mine don't look as tidy, but at some point you have to ask how much you care about what brake hard lines look like.

Unless you really care that bad how they look (like, probably paying 8+ hours of labor at $100+) I'd ask around for a good independent shop that'll do them in copper-nickel. Should be well under half that $400 for tubing and line nuts, and probably less labor... although I've never seen a book time on it, so everyone is kinda free to wing it on labor times.

 

Rear steel brake line routing 06 tacoma