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Brake Caliper Leaking from Bleeder Screw

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ICECOLDBEER, Oct 1, 2020.

  1. Oct 1, 2020 at 6:05 PM
    #1
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Noticed the front passenger brake caliper has developed a slow leak. Haven't been driving it lately so never really noticed. Was working on oil pan and went to start her up and pedal goes to the floor.... Small amount of brake fluid on passenger front tire and floor. It slowly seeps out even without pressing the brakes. Brake fluid resveroir was low but not empty.

    Thoughts on how to fix? I was going to run to the auto parts store and grab a new bleeder screw but im not sure it will help. Anyone run into this before?

    Caliper piston retracts fine so would like to try and save this one. 20201001_202401[2314].jpg 20201001_202419[2316].jpg
    Second pic is brand of caliper. Is that OEM? I replaced it maybe 3 years ago. Parts guy said it is OEM rebuild. Drivers side I replaced about a year ago. Same brand "Advics" but I was messing around thinking maybe I could just bleed them and noticed if you take both bleeders all the way out the one that is leaking is bigger. Seems weird to me that they would use different size bleeder on basically the same caliper. Almost like they had to tap it and now its leaking...
     
    davidstacoma likes this.
  2. Oct 1, 2020 at 6:22 PM
    #2
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    It been stated on here that ADVICS is the OEM brake PAD Manufacturer.
    If that is true, I would assume they could be the OEM of the Caliper too?
    Again, this is just coming from statements made here on TW.

    Could you try a new bleeder screw?
    Or do you think it will snap off when trying to remove it?
    Bleeder screws are cheap and easy. I’d try it first.
     
  3. Oct 1, 2020 at 6:39 PM
    #3
    SimonTaco

    SimonTaco Well-Known Member

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    Before prying on this bitch heat it, 50/50 it will snap, trying to get it out is a other 50/50 i fucked up mine and ended up buying a new caliper, for rn heat and replace, it will be fine
     
  4. Oct 1, 2020 at 7:10 PM
    #4
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh no I can remove it. I already had it all the way out. Although the head was stripped I got it loosened with a deep socket. My box wrench wanted to strip.

    I guess I will try a new bleeder. It just its not like its leaking out the end of it how you would normally bleed the brakes. It seems like it is leaking from underneath where it threads into the caliper. And nothing appears to be wrong with the threads on this one... It seems good and tight.

    Through some googling it seems sometimes this can happen from over tightening. Definitely possible. Some people said they had to get new calipers because the the bottom of the bleeder acts as the seal and not the threads. And the bottom of the bleeder can damage the inside of the caliper if overtightened. Hopefully not the case.

    Any idea part number for new bleeder?
     
  5. Oct 1, 2020 at 7:12 PM
    #5
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Just bring the bleeder to the part store.

    Yes the bottom seat is what seals it, you can break a bleeder clear off and it will still seal.
     
  6. Oct 1, 2020 at 7:19 PM
    #6
    vtdog

    vtdog Well-Known Member

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    I had a similar problem many years ago on a VW Pickup (yes, those were made in the late '70s). I was able to get the bleeder screw out, but could not find a replacement anywhere. It was before the days of the internet, so parts stores and dealers were only source. I ended up putting teflon tape on the threads and torqueing it down tight. The leak was fixed, but the next time I needed brakes I replaced calipers as pistons were binding so I don't know if I could have used it to bleed system as when I did the repair I had a buddy push on the pedal and I opened/closed the brake line connection to get air out.
     
    06Tacooo and ICECOLDBEER[OP] like this.
  7. Oct 1, 2020 at 7:20 PM
    #7
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Based on the rest of the rust in the photo, that may be your root cause

    Assuming your successful socket was a 6 point, and the wrench was not a flare wrench?

    I hope you've validated a solid frame before you drop too much $ into repairs.
     
    ICECOLDBEER[OP] likes this.
  8. Oct 1, 2020 at 7:35 PM
    #8
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No doubt. It actually got the new frame recently. The problem is everything else got crusty as well. Planning to sell it soon as I had it parked for about a year waiting for the new frame I bought a new truck. Just want to get this one in reasonable enough shape that whoever buys it can at least get it home haha.
     
  9. Oct 1, 2020 at 7:38 PM
    #9
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    new bleeder, Teflon tape on the threads wouldn't hurt, and a case of brake cleaner
     
  10. Oct 1, 2020 at 8:53 PM
    #10
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    Teflon tape on the threads can’t possibly do any good. The very end of the bleeder screw seals against a tapered seat. In between the seat and the threads is a hole drilled from the side to the middle open hole. So, that open hole in the side before the threads is always exposed to the atmosphere. That would be like having a broken restraint bar on a fair ride and keeping an ambulance nearby for when somebody falls out.

    I’m betting that the tapered seat is corroded away and you need a new caliper.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2020
  11. Oct 2, 2020 at 3:14 AM
    #11
    SimonTaco

    SimonTaco Well-Known Member

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    Teflon tape isnt a sealer its lubrification for the threads so you can torq it easier,
     
  12. Oct 2, 2020 at 6:49 AM
    #12
    EdgemanVA

    EdgemanVA Well-Known Member

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    If both calipers are that corroded, recommend replacing the pair.
     
  13. Oct 2, 2020 at 8:18 AM
    #13
    BillsSR5

    BillsSR5 Looking out for #1

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    if your selling it soon just try and clean it up with brake cleaner and try something like Teflon tape on a new bleeder to stem the leak
     
  14. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:06 AM
    #14
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Showing inside caliper seat. Looks fine to me. No rust.

    20201002_114205.jpg
     
  15. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:10 AM
    #15
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here is the bleeder its self. One thing I noticed is I can't get brake cleaner to spray through it. So it is clogged. Also when compared to the other side its missing a passage.

    20201002_114502.jpg
     
  16. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:12 AM
    #16
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    This is the other bleeder from the drivers side. Notice the extra passage. Its also skinnier. My question-when I go to get a new one does it need to have this passage?

    20201002_115425.jpg
     
  17. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:14 AM
    #17
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    WTF? That's not a bleeder screw.
     
  18. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:15 AM
    #18
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thats what was in there. My fingers are covering the nipple.
     
  19. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:17 AM
    #19
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    Somebody put something in there that's not a bleeder screw.
     
  20. Oct 2, 2020 at 9:19 AM
    #20
    ICECOLDBEER

    ICECOLDBEER [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So it should have the extra passage correct?
    Like I was saying I find it odd the bleeder on this side is so much bigger than the other.
     

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