Bleeding clutch ugh.

Hey everyone.

Recently picked up a 02 Tacoma 5speed, 2.7.l

It was hard to get into gear here and there and I could see the master clutch cylinder leaking. (preface never done this before)

Replaced both the MC and the SC and bench bled the master.

Now I am working on bleeding the whole system from the slave cylinder.

(Because this is my first time I want to outline everything making sure I didn't mess up somewhere.

1- Removed MC
2- (Already bench bled new MC)
3- Installed new MC
4- Removed SC
5- Installed new SC
5.5- Adjusted clutch
6- Used the vacuum pump on the SC waiting on friend to help.
7- Had friend hold down clutch and opened the SC.
8- Repeat 7 a bunch and don't see anymore air.)



I've bled quite a bit but still having issues. I read about putting something in between the clutch fork and the arm to press the rod of the slave cylinder in more but I cannot get anything between the two. What am I doing wrong?

When I turn start the truck (neutral), press down the clutch it will easily go into gear however after that I can tell the clutch isn't engaging correctly and it is difficult to get into any gear (I didn't force it).

Talk to me like I am ignorant on this subject because I am. I will not take any offense!

I also adjusted the clutch via a pdf I found on here and I believe it to be adjusted properly. About 0.5" of play before feeling resistance.

Thank you in advance!

 

When I replaced my clutch master and slave, I had a hell of time getting all of the air out of the system. I had a buddy help me try to manually bleed the system (press clutch, open bleeder, let air bubbles escape, close bleeder, repeat) probably a half dozen times without any luck. Once I got the mityvac I was able to bleed the air out of the system myself. Pretty sure my technique was to attach the vacuum line, open the bleeder, pump to pull a vacuum, close the bleeder valve. I didn't need a second person once I had the vacuum pump.

It's not clear from your description if your issue is air in the clutch hydraulics or an adjustment issue, I would try and narrow that down first.

 

Thanks I think I have a no name same one of this. Did you use Teflon tape on the bleeder screw? I saw some people recommending that I just don't want to break the system and lose what I have ha. Some people were saying that the vacuum pump pulls air from around the threads. What number did you get your pump to?

I may be using it wrong also. I pulled vacuum to around 15 open the bleeder, then shut the bleeder once it got down to around 5. You're saying you just open it and then pump the vacuum and create a vacuum that way until no air is seen (while making sure the MC stays full) and then shut the bleeder?

Thank you!

 

No teflon tape. If you loosen the bleeder valve enough I could see some air getting around the threads, but I would just open it enough to let fluid flow. I don't remember what numbers I got to, I just kept pumping until I stopped seeing bubbles. I had been fighting it for a week or two and was pretty angry at the whole setup.

Pretty sure that's what I did, and I had it bled in like 5 or 10 minutes.

 

Dope! Thank you so much!

Yeah I found myself getting angry and I was like ok I need a break haha. Like wtf!?

I will try this in about a hour and hopefully it works! Thanks again! Will report back tonight.

 

I am about to have this experience. I’ve bled brakes before, but not a clutch. I’m installing a new clutch master (and everything else in the hydraulic system). OP, can you explain to me what bench bleeding is? Can you not simply bleed masters while installed? Sub’d in case I have similar issues as you.

 

Did it shift easily when the engine was off? I'm having a similar issue and I'm thinking it's something with the clutch hydraulics. I read in another thread it doesn't "suck air" like the brakes so it should be self-bleeding more or less.

 

I found some people said to bench bleed and others did not. I saw no harm in doing it so I did it. Yes you can bleed it normally without doing the bench method.
Here is the video I watched, no affiliation if it's right wrong or in different. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dE7KIijsjyc

 

Let off pedal.
Open bleeder.
Push and hold pedal.
Close bleeder.

 

Yes it shifts very easy with engine off.

I jut pulled the pieces around the shifter to look there to see how bad the bushings are at the stick to transmission. They don't look great not awful. Looking at new pictures now to compare.

With @CrustyTaco 's input and help. I did bleed it again from the slave with the vacuum and I'm wondering if my bleeder is messed up. Sometimes the same turn as before introduces more air than others. It's not consistent with that said though it does seem to be helping.

As of now if I start it in neutral, depress clutch (initial time), I can go into any gear with EASE, I move it a few inches, neutral, depress clutch and then nothing it's back to not wanting to go into gear at all. :shrug with time and thankfully help form some of you I shall figure it out.

 

HHAHAHAA I may have been doing this wrong omg.

So pedal in the up position closest to dash (forgive me for spelling everything out just want to make sure I'm 100% tracking), open bleeder, push clutch down and hold, then close bleeder?

I am not to proud to say I was not doing that. I was having them depress the clutch to the floor then opening, closing, then releasing. HAHAHAH

Well hopefully it's as simple as that! Will have to wait for wife to get home to help.

Thank you! Will report once issue is fixed!

 

Once you have a decent pedal this is how I do it with great results.

You did it right, sometimes that method works great. My theory is that unlike a brake system which deals with thousands of psi of pressure, a small air bubble cannot be forced out of a weak pressure situation like a hydraulic clutch.

I am not an engineer, but I do work on cars for a living.

 

Ohhhhh ok so what I was doing is normal/acceptable you're just giving me another idea to try. Ok dope I will try that! Nothing to lose at this point.

Thank you for clarifying just trying to learn as much as I can.

 

Correct! Good luck!

 

Not saying this is the sole factor but I’m pretty sure this doesn’t look right.
Ordering new bushings both lower and upper.




Edit to add. And since I’ve got so much apart going to change the fluid to the MT-90.

after looking at new ones and some threads my bottom bushing was gone. So good thing I'm here and ordering a new one.

Any links or tips on best way to change over to MT-90 for where I currently sit?

Thank you!

 

Quick update. We did the method you suggested and a lot of air came out like surprisingly large amounts. Then nice and solid. Lost pressure in the peddle. So did the "normal" method and pressure is back AND no air bubbles after 8-10 bleeds (8-10 bleeds with no air bubbles I mean)!

Can't test it yet because gear shifter is already out and off and cleaned up waiting for new bushings. Which will be here Friday.

So I'll update Friday!

If anyone has any suggestions on ease of feeling the transmission with the stick out of the way please point me that direction I'm sure there's a way.

Thanks again everyone!

 

What brand MC and SC did you buy? I'm not a die hard OEM guy but I've had nothing but bad luck with parts store stuff with these two. Especially MC's.

 

When changing gear oil always remove the fill plug before draining!!

Your shifter seat and bushing were shot!

Something to be said for poor quality Clutch hydraulic parts .I have some fail right out of the box.

it seems even aftermarket Denso has declined the last few years.

 

We'll see how my new bits hold up. I got OEM tubes from dealer and aftermarket cylinders from LCE.

 

They are off of raockauto.
MC, AISIN CMT030 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OE Clutch Master Cylinder Info

SC, AISIN CRT029 {3147035130, 3147043010} OE Clutch Slave Cylinder

I know to usually go OEM and hopefully this doesn't bite me.

This is a tinker/project truck I got for a good price. I need to work on the frame this next year (buying a welder and teaching myself) so if I'm being honest I don't want to pour to much money into it (yet).

Haha solid point! I used to work in a shop and someone forgot to pull the plug once oof.

Ugh thank you for letting me know if I keep having trouble I'll try to return and buy OEM. I bought it as a tinker/project truck so am trying not to put to much money into it because I do need to work on the frame with that said if I NEED to go OEM on somethings it is what it is. Thanks for the feedback!

I reused my old tubes. If I keep having issues I may just get full OEM pieces and start over we'll see.

Thank you everyone for the help and input honestly!

This is my project truck. I'm really enjoying working on it and tinkering with it. My son is only 5 but he also is enjoying "helping me" and learning. Thank you for helping us on our journey!