Big Three Upgrade?

Hi,

As I have asked this question multiple times and gotten no response on multiple threads, kindly respond only if you have done the Big Three mod.
It's a long shot. This is a relatively cheap mod, which has good returns especially if you have better or aftermarket audio systems or lot of lights and other electrical mods.

I am looking for cable lengths so that I could give lengths for the 1/0 gauge cables ?
I want to do a Big 3 mod and upgrade on all my stock cables, but the company I am ordering from is asking me for the length to cut send me new ones, they add all the lugs etc.

I am looking for the lengths for each from end to end (which you cut)

1. Positive Cable to starter
2. Positive Cable from battery to fuse box
3. Positive Cable from alternator to fuse box
4. Negative Cable to transmission housing
5. Negative to frame
6. Alternator body to frame
7. Engine mount to the Frame Negative.

Thanks!

 

What is a Big 3 Upgrade?

 

Dude, if you don't know you mustn't have done and he said don't respond if you haven't done it... you wanna get in trouble or sumthin'?

 

I guess l gotta self report myself then, lol. I hadn't heard of the upgrade and was just curious.

 

Better report me too!

 

Had to google it. I guess it's common lingo in the car audio community (who knew)

The Big 3 Upgrade is a Swap or Addition to These Three Cables:

• Alternator positive cable that runs to the positive terminal of the battery
• Negative battery cable that runs from the battery to the vehicles chassis
• Chassis grounding cable that runs to the engine block

 

RAM
Ford
GM

 

Thank you kindly for the info, honestly never heard of it labeled that way before.

 

The big three is only necessary for high wattage car audio. Amps now are more efficient. Op what are you trying to accomplish?

 

^ This, no? ^

 

Buy a spool or wire and a few ring terminals yourself and cut and crimp then solder the terminals. So much easier and will probably be cheaper.

 

Toyota is now the largest auto manufacturer in the world (by production not market cap). Passing VW.

 

Where am i supposed to rest my head? No cradle action

 

I'm pretty sure all of us here have upgraded from the "Big 3" or were smart enough not to f' around w/ the Big 3 in the first place

 

How do you motor boat, asking for a friend.

 

Tell your friend to add more power.

 

This is why. Mainly for the last few reasons.

No, it's not. I wouldn't have tried to buy from a company, if I didn't do the research, and did the math.
This large

$116 Xscorpion MGCT-24 Large Gauge Ring Terminal Crimper

gauge ring terminal crimper tool alone needed for this task is $121 not including shipping.
This

$36 iCrimp Battery Cable Lug Crimping Tool for 8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 1/0 AWG Heavy Duty Wire Lugs, Battery Terminal, Copper Lugs with Wire Shear Cutter

battery terminal lug crimper and high gauge wire cutter is another $32
Plus it's one time use and forget for ever, and I won't even know what I will do with these tools afterwards, I hate buying tools which I will never use again.
Not to mention all the other accessories, cables, terminators, lugs and the time and effort it takes. Time is precious. I'm all about DIY, but not this one.
I could buy the complete Big Three Upgrade kit from DC Power Inc or from Sonic Electronics for just $89 dollars. All the parts, copper core cable, clips, cables, lugs, cables, threads soldered fluxed and soldered, heat shrinked, with terminals, and tested and taken care, ready to install with a warranty.
There used to be a guy on 2nd gen forums who used to sell such a similar kit for them until he passed.

I only needed the correct lengths. I tried to measure it myself, I went under my truck, removed the skid plate, removed two of the plastic housings held together by 6 tabs in through which the cables running
down to the alternator (the lower one is really hard to take apart, lost some skin in the process), and there's still another heat thick shielding pipe some of the 3 pipes are running inside through and taped tightly, and I wasn't able to remove them without removing the battery (for more room), entire alternator, alternator bracket,
as there was so little space for one hand alone, and you need both hands. And the cable running to starter is another struggle as it's taped to other cables too. I also also ran out of time and didn't want to remove the whole thing, rip out the cables, measure them, only to put them all back together, all during work hours, especially when I need my truck later in the evening.

I was trying to avoid typing this thesis, and thats why I asked if someone has already done it. Sigh! Looks like I just got to figure it out myself.

 

I did this once on my daughters very aged Toyota celica. I forget the reason why but I had a guy make the correct lengths and lugs. After installing it made all the lights brighter, radio louder and clearer, car ran smoother. I am sure people will say it’s all in your head but daughter noticed it as well. The cables in her car were coffee straw thin!
I have noticed nothing like that with my Tacoma nor am I upgrading the stereo so I am sure I will not need this on my Tacoma.

 

15 years ago on the Titan forum the popular electrical system mod was a set of four 8 gauge cables strategically placed to improve grounding between different components. Every dude on the forum was spending his $70 on it, I didn’t notice a difference before and after but it felt cool bolting it on. With as sensitive and complex as current electrical systems have gotten I’m not sure that mods like this are necessary. I’ll run a 0 gauge cable for a rear mounted winch at some point with a matching 0 gauge ground to the frame, but otherwise I don’t think it’s something necessary on these trucks.

 

For awhile I thought cables were just one of the “big 3” the other 2 being battery and alternator.