Best lower ball joint for 2gen Tacoma

I have a 08 Tacoma with 170k, a few days back I notice a sound on the front suspension. When I check I saw that the lower ball joints are worn out.

What brand of ball joint should I get? I went to buy OEM brand but they don’t sell the ball joint by it self. The sell the control arm.

Any recommendations?

 

It's cheaper to just replace the whole LCA, than deal with changing out the Ball Joint on the 2nd Gens

 

I used Moog joints on mine. It was easier to replace the ball joint than deal with getting the truck realigned after replacing the lower a-arm. You will need a robust ball joint press. The rental kits from Advance will do the job.

 

Mevotech TTX is what I used... not enough time on them to know their long term reliability but they are greasable and look burly AF

 

I installed ProForged in the UCA and LCA. Have zirks for grease and seem stout when pressed in. Only about 1,000 miles on them so too early to tell.

 

I agree. By the time he needs other one it will be time for a new truck.

 

Yup

 

Yep, at 170K, might be better to replace the LCA's. The OEM bushings failure are not far behind, and those are a much more PIA to replace than the BJ's. But note, your cam bolts might be seized, a common issue on our Tacos. Check them out first and get a Diablo blade to cut through the seized bolts.
However, if you get aftermarket LCA's, they come with shitty quality BJ's - I would replace them with any of the aforementioned brands. I got Dorman LCA's and the BJ's had excessive play before 15K miles.

 

Exactly this! My ball joints were fine at 190k but the bushings were seized so I couldn’t align. Got replacements but put a set of decent ball joints in them so I didn’t have to start over a year later (I drive a lot)

 

When you say "decent ball joints," what brand are you talking about? I think that was the question that started this thread.

 

Look 6 posts above this one...

 

Are your LCAs seized at all? Check your eccentrics too. Might be advisable to just replaced both LCAs & eccentrics with new OEM parts. Pricey but worth it if you want that truck to go another 170k! That’s what I had to do!




Figured I add some parts number to help

https://parts.stevinsontoyotawest.c...T-AXLE-ARM--STEERING-KNUCKLE/674470-4802.html

 

Are these PN’s specific to the 2’nd gen? My internet skills are lacking right now and I’m seeing what you referenced as 2016+

 

how about instead of replacing an arm and bolts
OP removes his eccentric bolts
to clean, coat in anti-sieze, then re-install

when a ball joint is worn, you replace a ball joint
not an arm
$30 part
not $400

 

@TacoTuesday1 all that has already been suggested, although I dont think anyone specifically mentioned greasing the bolts if not seized. Replace a BJ instead of the whole LCA ... generally, yes. Except his LCA’s have 170K miles. Bushing failure is not far away; thus, in his situation, replacing the LCA’s, which come with bushings installed, may be more affordable in the long run.

 

Didn’t notice where he’s from, in my part of the world seized eccentrics are a given... diablo blade is the only solution.

Only way to avoid it (now I know) is disassembly (before they are locked solid) and liberally coat with anti seize/grease/etc.

The one thing I DID NOT want to deal
with was replacing bushings. My solution was salvage yard low mile control arms (cheap) and originally I had planned to use the ball joints that came with them...but heeded the advice of some other TW members and replaced them. My search for a decent (serviceable) ball joint led me to the Mevotech TTX

 

Now that looks like quality replacements! I've bookmarked that site.

 

I have high hopes based on their construction- everything down to the castle nut and hairpin cotter pin (instead of a plain old cotter pin) appeared to be heavy duty. Even the boot was very heavy, they are painted an OD green which must add around 5hp... and they are greasable. Just position the zerks so that you can actually use them once the truck is back together (don’t ask how I know)

 

Lots of good opinions here depending on your skill level and desire to do this or that.

Just to add to all this, Moog LCAs are not much over $100 each to replace the whole LCA(look at Rock Auto). I did this so I can rebuild my OEM LCAs with Whiteline bushings and Mevotech TTX ball joints at my leisure, and the Moogs have taken some abuse so far with no issues, so I havent bothered with the old OEMs at this point because of this.

OEM ball joints ARE AVAILABLE if you order from overseas via eBay. They just aren't available in the US. Price may vary, but it is an option. OEM LCAs complete are about $300 each from Amazon.

Mevotech TTX and Proforge are solid choices for ball joints, as is Moog(who Dirt King and Camburg both use Moog in their after market LCAs).

Good luck!

 

I am sure every case is different depending on how its driven but does the ball joints go before the bushings, at the same time or after? Is it common to just replace the ball joints on factory control arms and just continue with original bushings. Going to be a long time before I am in need of either but like to plan ahead...