"Best" Drum Brake Shoes?

Looking at replacing brake shoes (Drum), any weird things to look out for?
Using NAPA parts, (unless there are a better drum brake shoe out there for a 1999 2WD)?

Will also be doing all springs etc, and the valve thing, so replacing brake fluid also.

Just looking for any weird issues.

-Is there a ''Bolt'' to help take off the disc? What Size Bolt?
-What size Brake line Wrench?

 

Haynes Service manual or I think you can download one.
That's what I did for my two gen

 

OEM parts are the best. Drum bolt is a M8-1.25. 10mm brake line bolt

 

I have the Hanes book, it doesn't way which size bolt to thread into the drum to pry it off. Just says ''Use a bolt'' if it sticks.

Doesn't give wrench size for brake line, which should be standard but still.

**Question: DOES THE DRUM GASKET get replaced always? I imagine it may tear.***

Thanks@@!!

 

Rear brakes do very little in the overall braking scheme. So 'better' pad really will make little difference. @Dirtridercrf250 nailed the bolt and wrench sizes (though do suggest you use a flare nut wrench). May have to 'back off' the adjusters to get the drum off. Finally, do one side at a time - so you can use the other for reference when putting it back together... I know of no 'drum gasket' you speak of....

 

I always reccomend and personally always use OEM parts. Toyota parts will last much longer than local auto part stuff. Peice of mind, that they will fit and operate. As far as the actual steel drums I'd run napa, toyota has them priced as if they were GOLD LOL

 

First of all, use Toyota OEM brake shoes. Many people have had problems with aftermarket shoes. You've been warned.

Secondly, why are you replacing all your springs and the wheel cylinders (Valve Thing as you put it)? Do you live in one of the rust belts of the country and the parts are rusted and falling apart? Are your wheel cylinders leaking? If the answer to both those questions is "No", you're wasting money. The brake hardware can last the life of the rig. And, if your wheel cylinders aren't leaking, why replace them?

Further, if you can't get the drums off easily after hammering on them with a dead blow hammer or plastic mallet, going straight for the bolt method to draw the drums off might not be the best way to go. If the shoes are hanging up pretty good, you can get things really stuck. How do I know this? I've personally seen it happen. If the drums are fighting you, it's best to first go through the access hatch on the backing plate and turn the auto adjuster to reduce tension on the shoes.

This video will show you everything you need to know for servicing your rear brakes:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs

 

I'm with @pray4surf. What is a brake drum gasket and where does it go? I've done a fair amount a rear brake jobs on these rigs and have no clue what you're referring to.

 

The Brake drum gasket is listed in the Hanes book, it looks like it fits in the drum itself, its like a 10" circle. In the Hanes plans. (??)

Ok thanks all!!

**QUESTION:-so a 10MM flare nut wrench for the Brake Line Nut (and Bleeder valve??))

 

Are you sure you're not confusing this with the backing plate?

 

No it says ''Gasket'' in all 3 diagrams, probably meant to ease off the drum so it wont stick so much. It fits over the center part, that looks redish orangsish in the below video. Maybe its for European or Japanese only trucks.
Here is the guy that recomends replacing all the easy brake parts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5j3sKgNoEs

 

Well, as you can see from the video, the vehicle Chris Fix is working on is a little on the rusty side. Maybe that's why he chose to replace all the brake hardware. I'm not going to watch the whole video to find out, but I sure hope he mentioned replacing the brake hardware was because of the rust and he was concerned with the springs failing because of it. If you're in a area with limited corrosion problems, you're wasting your money replacing the hardware. Here's the problem I have with Chris Fix videos. He makes it seem like following his rear drum brake shoe video for the particular vehicle he's working on will enable you to replace drum brake shoes on any vehicle. "Hey, it's easy" like he always likes to say. As you can see from the video, the drum brakes on the vehicle he's working on look nothing like ours. His video will give you a general idea and maybe that's enough for some people. If you want to know how to specifically do the brakes on your rig, I suggest you watch my video. Chris Fix has the most popular automotive channel on YouTube and is wildly successful. I do like some of his stuff, but he quite often doesn't offer the detail I like to see in a video and I dislike how he presents his videos. Just because you can do drum brakes on one vehicle doesn't mean it's going to translate to every other vehicle with drum brakes. It's the Ultimate Guide to Replacing Drum Brakes on the vehicle he's working on. Is it the ultimate guide to replacing drum brakes on any vehicle? No, it's not.

As for the gasket topic, there is no gasket. There is an large o-ring to give a weather proof seal between the axle and the housing but that's it. For this job, you will not be replacing a gasket.

Also, do yourself a favor and invest in the Toyota factory service manuals. Those Haynes manuals might be decent but they don't come close to the real thing.

 

Thanks good info. Hanes does suck. Very little info.

Ok, so I found a PDF manual on ebay, for like $7.00
Anyone have these? Are they any good?

**(Also, still need to know if you can use a 10mm wrench on the brake line nut)- ok you can thanks

 

For line fittings, a flare nut wrench is the safe way to go because you get a more positive connection with the nut. Using a basic open end wrench dramatically increases your chances to strip the nut. Do yourself a favor and invest in some flare nut wrenches.

$100 GEARWRENCH 6 Pc. Flex Flare Nut Wrench, Metric - 81911D

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XQ5MJA/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the wheel cylinder bleeder valve, I like using a 10mm offset wrench.

6mm - 22mm 8 Piece Metric Offset Box Wrench Set with Heavy Duty Pouch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGGL9Z0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need to buy a full set of each of these wrenches, but if enjoy wrenching like I do, they are a good investment.

 

Hey Timmal, I've seen your rotor replacement vid for 4 runner.
Would it be possible and safe to replace the front rotors on a 2wd 1999 Tacoma with the same beefy rotors, (bolt on? no machining?)

 

You would still need to trim the dust shields to get the bigger calipers to fit. And, depending on the rims you have, they might not fit over those calipers. Look at the video description for the Tundra Brake Upgrade and you'll see a link to a T4R.org thread. That thread has a lot of helpful info including the known rims that will work for this mod.

 

You dont specify if your 2wd is 5 lug or 6 lug. Any 4runner rotors (6 lug) wouldn't fit your truck if it's a 5 lug. If you have a pre runner (6 lug) then yes, youd be able to swap rotors as shown in Timmah's vid

 

Ah, its SR5, so 5 lug I think. Darn.

 

SR5 is a 'trim level' designation - and has nothing to do with the number of lugs holding the wheels on. The 'Tundra Brake' modification can only be accomplished on the 6-lug Tacomas (Speaking about the 1st gen only). This is for both the 4x4 and the 'PreRunner' (2WD) https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-does-sr5-mean.28679/

 

6 lugs are SR5 too, my 4x4 TRD v6 is an SR5. It's just a description of the trim level