best clutch?

What’s the best clutch setup and why? Bonus points if you mention what you do regarding the flywheel


Looking at switching out an OE Exedy that’s acting up
Not sure if it's worth $40 for new ARP bolts or if the dealer has them cheaper. They're probably loctite coated one time use stretch bolts.

Will check out the following

-Exedy (any)
-auto parts stores and online retailers to see what they sell such as Autozone, Partsgeek, Amazon, eBay, Oreillys, RockAuto, and so on
-SPEC
-URD
-LCE
-Centerforce
-ACT
-Southbend

mods:
-bigger heavier tires
-heavy armor
-cam gears
-tow and wheel sometimes
-hydroTOB that softens pedal feel. This made the stock Exedy pressure plate feel even softer (too soft) - I think the hydroTOB might go well with stage 2 (increased pedal effort) to kind of balance this out to achieve a nice middle ground feel

 

I’ve got a URD heavy flywheel that came with the bolts for them from URD, and a stage 3 clutch from URD. Paired with the CM hydro bearing. It’s a nice setup compared to the factory junk.

 

holy crap that sounds beast. My drive used to be slow and I wheeled more so I definitely eyed the URD heavy flywheel at the time, price aside.
I don’t know if I should get it now with more city driving. I find that even with steel armor people still get on my ass; sometimes I let it get to me and try to shift faster than the transmission likes
And IDK if a heavy flywheel might slow/intensify that even more
Rolling back at the red light to let them know it’s manual never works

I am surprised your stage 3 doesn’t feel too stiff, almost like the increased force of HydroTOB handles it well

glad to hear yours works. I was on the fence with URD as a brand regarding stage 2 clutch just because I have heard some issues with it, but idk if those were just installed improperly. The people who wrote the reviews may have had shops install them.
Certain steps must be taken installing any clutch like controlling how it sits on there with the plastic alignment dowel tool included
That I hope a shop would follow given how basic and common it is.
and break-in time, etc

curious to know why you think/how the factory setup is junk
I definitely agree…

what kind of driving do you do/think your heavyweight flywheel can handle?
I’m sure a nice aspect of installing it is it’s brand new so there is no concern for resurfacing, machining, dimensions/thickness/height, shims, etc

I wonder if it’s able to handle all variety of driving conditions a Taco anywhere in the US might be subjected to, as opposed to only slow rock crawling or certain environments
For example if living in a small far away city odds are a commute drive may be pretty relaxed with less people tailgating.
As opposed to a big city where people drive aggressively

 

Between the bird chirp and the poor gripping it just didn't tickle my fancy. My truck only had around 50k miles on it, I know how to drive stick been doing it for 20+ years, and I've never driven such a shitty OEM clutch/slave cyl setup my whole life. Upon removal the clutch had plenty of life left, but the flywheel was glazed over and so was the pressure plate. I bought my truck with 10k miles so I doubt it happened from the previous owner. Years of heavy wheeling (NOT clutch burning) must have taken its toll. I did the job myself so I know it was done right. Haven't had any problems. I've done a few swaps for folks and never had any complaints, so I'm guessing those that did had a shitty mechanic do the work or just had bad luck, but URD should make good for it if that's the case. I like the extra rolling torque you get with the heavy flywheel, it's great for offroading. If you have tall gears, it may not be for you as it will take a little more feathering to get it going. I have 4.56s and two transfer cases so I rarely run into a spot where having to start that extra weight from the flywheel is noticeable.




On the new setup, the shifts are smoother, the grip and snappiness is just there compared to the old setup, and also that bird chirp is long gone

 

How'd you pick between URD's stage 2, 3, and 3+?
(I see they even have Stage IV now)

 

I have this exact setup as well, you won’t regret it. I was worried about the heavy flywheel because I was switching from a lightweight one. Difference is barely noticeable in rev speed but everywhere else the truck is just a joy to drive. I’m in Dallas and get stuck in a lot of stop and go traffic, it’s SOOO much easier with the hydro and heavy flywheel lol.

 

your clutch is URD stage 3?

 

Mines the 3 plus now but I just changed it from the stage 3

 

oh dang so 3+ is better than 3?
considering your avatar is a pic of towing a trailer with Jeep on it I'd say probably yes...

I see now that Stage 3 is regular material on one side, and "segmented" URD calls it, on the other side
while Stage 3+ is segmented on both sides.
Only thing I'd worry about with that is a very harsh bite that's only useful on a weekend non-daily track type of car
but if URD says it's still very streetable and you're dailying it, then maybe it's fine...

Only experience I have with that was riding in a 700hp built B5S4 with twin Frankenturbos. Guys daily was a Honda Fit. B5 S4 for the weekends. Real harsh and strong clutch to hold that power. A lot more power than any 2nd gen Taco.


I think the segmented side is kevlar whereas flat side is organic
supposedly segmented basically acts like an On/Off switch all-or-nothing, with less ability to modulate and slip it. Grabbing/biting real quick to take off at 1st. Maybe passenger will complain about the jerk feeling but everyone will say Who cares

 

To be honest I just went with what I thought would be best for me. The stage 2 has carbon/Kevlar on both sides and the stage 3+ has segmented ceramic friction on both sides and said good to use for forced induction which I don't plan on going that route. The stage 3 is a hybrid of that with a dual friction assembly.

The description seemed to fit what I was looking to get out of it as well, "The URD Stage 3 clutch assembly is rated for 500 wheel torque combined with very streetable engagement with only a slight increase in pedal effort. If you are looking for the best step up from the stock clutch, this is the one for you."

 

I had to have the tranny out to switch to the hydro bearing so I threw a new clutch in and tried out the 3 plus and the heavy flywheel. No complaints, is the clutch stiffer than my 87 4runner absolutely yes. But I daily it in heavy traffic, can tow and put power down when I want too. The standard 3 had lots of life left when I pulled it out and I’m pretty mean to them sometimes lol. Everytime I take it for service somewhere the techs always comment on it because that’s one of the first things they notice is the engagement point is very low and firm but not harsh by any means. I wouldn't go back.

 

Isn't the engagement point adjusted at the pedal rod though? Especially if you have CM HydroTOB. Their instructions say to set it around 75%.
I always noticed on cold mornings my pedal bit starts lower, but at warm/operating temp is gets near 75% (after I adjusted it).
I assumed it's due to there just being some variation in how the HydroTOB operates when the brake fluid activating it is cold and not fully warmed up yet, which I never had a problem with, especially if it's only for the first mile on a 10mi drive to work.

What did you do with the old Stage 3?
I thought maybe with HydroTOB it would soften any stiff feel of your 3+ but I guess it can only do that so much. But if anything that's a good thing (stronger pressure plate holding power) if your leg can handle it.

Well this for sure narrows it down, thank you. I will have to decide between Stage 3 and 3+ (with heavyweight Torque-U flywheel)
stage 2 sounds like a waste given that besides a stronger hub and pressure plate, the friction material is essentially the same as OEM...
Probably can't go wrong with either of them.
My OE clutch REALLY did not like wheeling. Lots of shifting, changing speeds, having to hold and get moving a truck up rocks in 4LO; it struggled...

 

I have mine set lower, that’s where I prefer it, I feel like I have more control over it there. The hydro did “soften” it a bit. I think it’s mostly the fact it’s pushing a straight even force on the input shaft. Yes it’s firm but it’s really not bad. It’s not like a straight race clutch. It’s VERY street able and I really like it. Your leg isnt sore when your done and I’m a small guy lol. My buddy liked it enough after driving mine we put my old setup in his xrunner.

 

Any experience of ACT clutch?
https://www.advancedclutch.com/products/transmission/ta3-hdss-hd-o-perf-street-sprung

 

I just saw this thread while looking to see if anyone had problems with the installation of a URD stage 2 clutch. My mechanic ran into problems and could not install the URD stage 2 clutch. Still waiting to find out how this whole situation plays out, but I will share my story hopefully soon when I have a resolution with the company or confirmation that resolution will not occur. Either way I will be as fair and objective as possible in explaining what occurred.

 

How do you know your mechanic didn't install it wrong

 

That is a fair question. At this point I can say he installed an OEM clutch kit purchased from a local Toyota dealer. I surmise if the OEM install was not an issue for him than the other one shouldn't have been either.

 

I knew Xrunner owners that regularly pounded away with boost down the engines, that had them. They never complained to my knowledge. One did plenty of drag racing and road course racing.

 

How do you like that setup? I'm thinking about running the same setup. What kind of driving do you do? Thanks.

 

I haven't put too many miles on it since the swap but so far it's holding up to everything I need it for. 99% of mine is through the rocks or on the trail, I've heard of people having issues with the CM throwout bearing but knock on wood I haven't had issues. Seems their product is hit or miss and maybe I got the one the QA guy gave an extra look at on the assembly line. The clutch has a real nice feel compared to the stock clutch and I can just tell it has more "bite" but it's not difficult at all to shift compared to the stock setup.