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belt, tensioner & pulley, and idler pulley. part numbers

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Glamis, Oct 8, 2018.

  1. Oct 8, 2018 at 1:31 PM
    #1
    Glamis

    Glamis [OP] date joined 03-18-2009 this is my new ID

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    belt, tensioner & pulley, and idler pulleys. part numbers # for my 2008 4.0

    If some one has the parts list that would be grate.

    I did a belt at 90K. I'm now at 170,000 and planing a road trip. CA to MI.
     
    AR15xAR10 likes this.
  2. Oct 8, 2018 at 1:59 PM
    #2
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    Gates part numbers for pulleys. Use a Bando brand belt

    ADE97A40-5307-473A-B5C5-245D0036AD0E.jpg
     
  3. Oct 8, 2018 at 2:00 PM
    #3
    Fullboogie

    Fullboogie Well-Known Member

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    Rock Auto has a kit with all those Gates idlers, plus the tensioner and its idler, for a good price. I just changed the tensioner idler and not the whole thing, because it's a PITA to change the whole assembly.
     
    Blockhead and TheDevilYouLove like this.
  4. Oct 8, 2018 at 2:02 PM
    #4
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    Many people on here have said that changing the whole tensioner assembly is a real bastard of a job.
     
  5. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:08 PM
    #5
    Saltcodnewfie

    Saltcodnewfie Member

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    is there a part # for the tensioner pulley ? I don't want to change the tensioner just all the pulleys.....thanks
     
  6. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:32 PM
    #6
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    There’s a Chinese made pulley that people get and replace the bearings with Quality Japanese made bearings.
     
  7. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:52 PM
    #7
    Fullboogie

    Fullboogie Well-Known Member

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    I've not found a separate part number for the tensioner pulley from Gates. Did some more research today after seeing this post and still don't have a part number. Which is weird. But considering that you get all the pulleys, the tensioner, and a belt, the Rock Auto package is a good deal - even if you throw the tensioner itself into a drawer.
     
  8. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:53 PM
    #8
    T4RFTMFW

    T4RFTMFW Well-Known Member

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  9. Oct 8, 2018 at 6:18 PM
    #9
    KevinTaco98

    KevinTaco98 Well-Known Member

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    How hard is it to change the tensioner, idle pulleys and belt? Anyone try it?
     
  10. Oct 8, 2018 at 6:27 PM
    #10
    Saltcodnewfie

    Saltcodnewfie Member

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    the pulleys a easy, the tensioner itself is a bit of a pain on the V6. Fullboogie is probably right about the package deal....cheers
     
  11. Oct 8, 2018 at 6:35 PM
    #11
    Fullboogie

    Fullboogie Well-Known Member

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    Huh - weird coincidence. Earlier today the Gates kit was $185.00. As of 8:35 pm Central time, it just went up to $199 on Rock Auto. Are they spying on us?!
     
  12. Oct 8, 2018 at 7:07 PM
    #12
    KevinTaco98

    KevinTaco98 Well-Known Member

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    Is there something else I should be doing while changing the belt tensioner and pulleys? Like the water pump or something
     
  13. Oct 8, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #13
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
    I did it all this summer around 75k. Be prepared, the tensioner FUCKING SUCKS to remove and replace.

    Everything else is relatively straight forward

    Part numbers:

    (x1) Serp belt - 90916-A2001
    (x1) Tensioner - 16620-31013
    (x2) Idler Pulley - 16604-0P011
    (x1) Idler Pulley - 16603-0P030

    My recommendation is to do it from the bottom. With the skids off. Any other questions, feel free to ask me :)

    Edit: i ordered the 100% OEM parts from Mcgeorge Toyota Parts of Richmond VA and the cost was about $260
     
  14. Oct 8, 2018 at 7:24 PM
    #14
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    So why is the tensioner such a bear to replace?
     
  15. Oct 8, 2018 at 9:09 PM
    #15
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
    AC motor has to be removed.

    Lots of swivel sockets are needed.

    All the nearby AC lines have to be loosened from their mounting brackets so you can move it out of the way in order to even get to the tensioner bolts.

    Getting the tensioner out of that hole and the new one back in also sucks.


    All of this has to be done inside the driver’s side wheel well WITH the tire/wheel off.
     
  16. Oct 8, 2018 at 11:07 PM
    #16
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    The bearing in the tensioner pulley can be replaced; the size is 17X40X17.5 (ID X OD X Width). I replaced mine with a Nachi 5203-2NS. Bearings in the other pulleys can be replaced also, but requires some additional parts.
     
    Blue92 likes this.
  17. Oct 9, 2018 at 4:40 AM
    #17
    KevinTaco98

    KevinTaco98 Well-Known Member

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    Should I replace anything else while I’m there? Anything that would be easy to do while I’m there for preventative maintenance
     
  18. Oct 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM
    #18
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    Any special tools needed to press out the old bearing and press in the new bearing in the tension pulley?
     
  19. Oct 9, 2018 at 6:51 AM
    #19
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
    @XPOTRPR recently did it. Ask him
     
    XPOTRPR likes this.
  20. Oct 9, 2018 at 6:52 AM
    #20
    AR15xAR10

    AR15xAR10 AR10 is 5 ARs better

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    Please refer to build (click signature picture)
    Not really. Just be careful not to snap any bolts off or you’re dead in the water
     

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