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Be QUIET! or... how to sound-proof your Taco cab

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Jinzo Ningen, Oct 1, 2020.

  1. Oct 1, 2021 at 10:28 AM
    #61
    itsZiz

    itsZiz Active Member

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    KMC KM535 GRENADE OR Falken Wildpeak AT2W 265/75r16 Black Decals Overlay & Tailgate Inserts Aeroskin II Hood Protector Tacoma OEM Bed Mat Window Tint TRD Grill
    Did you do MLV in the doors too? I'm trying to figure out how much room there is between the inner door and the panel.

    MLV is 1/8 thick, then a layer of ccf on at least one side, maybe both (between the metal door and mlv, and the mlv to the door panel) so its up to 3/8 of an inch. Some of it squishes down from the ccf, but that still seems really thick.

    Hate to waste money on stuff I have to rip out.
     
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  2. Oct 1, 2021 at 11:17 AM
    #62
    auskip07

    auskip07 Well-Known Member

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    Yes on the doors, Its a tight fit but it fits.

    I used sound deadening inside the door shell and around the speakers another layer of sound deadening foam stick on material and then hung the MLV over it.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08562G98X?ie=UTF8
     
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  3. Oct 1, 2021 at 11:37 AM
    #63
    itsZiz

    itsZiz Active Member

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    Thanks!

    So you used the foam on the inside of the door shell, what about between the MLV and the meta door itself? So essentially did you have 3 layers... ccf/mlv/ccf ~ 3/8"

    I've read ccf between the mlv and the metal door panel is the most important, but assumed id need it between the mlv and the door shell as well. basically we dont want MLV touching anything that isnt soft ccf right?
     
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  4. Oct 1, 2021 at 11:42 AM
    #64
    auskip07

    auskip07 Well-Known Member

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    Inner part of door (where window recesses) and exterior shell
    Layer 1 -BXT II RAAMmat

    Cabin side of metal door in-between the door and plastic door card.
    Layer 2 - Ensolite IUO
    Layer 3 - Mass loaded Vinyl

    i got the door card plastic snaps in place and used pressure from my knee to get alll the screws in. So its tight.
     
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  5. Jan 17, 2023 at 12:15 AM
    #65
    Danieldee

    Danieldee Well-Known Member

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    Im about to install goose gear as well. Did you have any trouble with fitment after putting the materials?
     
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  6. Jan 17, 2023 at 1:27 AM
    #66
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    If you stick to 80 mill and 150, you should be fine. I used 150 on top and 300 in lower portions, and my floor and some areas did not like the extra. For some reason, I had in my head to use the 300 and its FAT. With 80 mill and 150 it should fit back nice and clean.
     
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  7. Jan 17, 2023 at 5:53 AM
    #67
    Shellshock

    Shellshock King Shit of Turd Island

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    Nope. Definitely recommend doing if you are putting goose gear in
     
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  8. Jun 17, 2023 at 11:23 PM
    #68
    MajinMight

    MajinMight Member

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    Hey guys, I have a 2011 SR5 access cab and started the project today. I have 80 mil killmat I'm putting everywhere. I can't figure out how to get the back panel off the back wall in the access cab. Haven't seen a video for this specific trim. I've removed the seats, and storage bucket. It seems tight, but I don't see and bolts or screws holding it in place. Anybody know?

    Also to remove the headliner, I have everything off except for the airbag badges. Any special way to take those off? I disconnected my battery just in case.

    Thanks!
     
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  9. Jun 18, 2023 at 7:11 AM
    #69
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    everything pry's off. just gotta find which way to pry it. one way it won't go, the other way it will
     
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  10. Jun 18, 2023 at 2:51 PM
    #70
    CygnusX191

    CygnusX191 Gangster of Boats

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    So. Many. Stickers.
    Yup, stuff just pops off lol.

    Airbag badges?
     
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  11. Jun 18, 2023 at 3:47 PM
    #71
    soundman98

    soundman98 Well-Known Member

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    the one's at the top of the A pillar? i believe they pry towards the windshield. it's really just a bolt cover
     
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  12. Jun 22, 2023 at 5:33 AM
    #72
    MajinMight

    MajinMight Member

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    Yes, so the SRS airbag emblems or badges... Are just fancy screw covers. You need a sharp tool to get in there and open the cover. It splits in half folding down to expose a 10mm screw. Best to use a socket instead of Phillips head on these.

    The back panel does pry off as others mentioned here. It was on so tight that I felt like it had screws but it didn't, just about 15 of those plastic clip things. Nearly all of them broke so you may want to have new ones on hand for reassembly.
     
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