Battery won't stay charged

I went to start my truck the other day and it the battery was dead, no warning or signs it was coming. Boosted it, ran great, no lights on dash, let it run extra long to charge battery. Next morning, same thing. Bought a new battery but the same thing keeps happening.

As long as the truck is running, there is no problem and as soon as it gets a boost, it runs great.

Any ideas on what the problem might be? Short somewhere? Is this a common problem?

Thanks in advance.

 

Start the truck. Dico battery while running. If it stays running. I dont know.maybe a sort on the charging side of alternator. If it dies it is the alternator.
Good luck

 

Something is not turning off obviously. One way to check what it is to put a multimeter on the battery and pull fuses until you see an increase in voltage from disconnecting the load. Takes some time.

 

I have had this issue with my 2013. It has been to the dealer a few times under warranty, and had the battery replaced 3 times now.

It is the only problem I have had with my 2013, and Toyota can not figure it out. It is my wifes biggest gripe with my truck, and it has left me stranded a few times at work or in the morning. It is completely intermittent and I have load tested the ALT myself as well as Toyota, and checked for current draws as well.

Being intermittent is the problem, never know when its going to happen and unless I physically go through the process every time I park it I will never find it.

The first time, I jumped it and drove it to Toyota, where I sat for hours. They checked everything and said it was good. Then it would not start.. So I was stuck there longer!

 

I suspect it is something with the emissions crap that runs after you shut the truck off. There has to be an intermittent problem that only happens sometimes and there is no pattern so I have not nailed it down.

 

Do this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

 

I'd start by cleaning the battery posts and making sure terminals are free of corrosion and making a good secure connection. Check the negative post to fender ground to make sure its not loose as well.

 

I dont know if our trucks even have one cause I never look in there, but my old truck had the glovebox light break loose, and the shutoff switch wasn't being made, so the light stayed on all the time. I never thought of it, but opened the glovebox to get something else, and there it was.

 

x2. Disconnecting a battery with a running engine on a vehicle with emission control computer can be a very expensive mistake. The battery is used to filter and stabilize the DC charging voltage. Removing the battery can significantly increase the voltage peaks could damage the electronic or electrical systems in your vehicle. Prior to emission control systems, disconnecting the battery was an acceptable method of testing the charging system. This is no longer the case.

 

^ really good way to rune your day. Once upon a time you could get away with that even starting cars with 24 volts but those days are long gone like several decades ago.

 

Yes. ^ but it works.
Take it a local pep boys or whatever and have them test the charging side. If you can't.

 

NOT Recommended. You may fry the electronics using this method. It causes surges in the circuit which has been known to burn out ECUs etc.

Do take it to a parts house where they usually will do a free battery load test. This will indicate where the issue is.

 

What you really meant to say is it works some times. It is all most a sure fired way to do damage to all kinds of electrical stuff from light bulbs to ECU's. An alternator is capable of some pretty high voltage in excess of 50 volts they sense battery voltage to regulate the charge rate if there is no battery voltage they go unregulated full charge. I would suggest that any one thinking about trying this do a google search first. Modern batteries just quit the old ones did give you some warning as they just got weaker. The OP has other issues and needs to take the truck to some one that knows what they are doing instead of spending money needlessly.

 

Waiting for result.

 

Question for the OP.

Have you added any aftermarket electrical/electronic components?

 

A sulfated battery also can cause this problem because the battery will not take a charge.

 

Forgot about this thread, it ended up being the antenna for my remote start. I disconnected it and no problems. I think they damaged it when i had my windshield replaced.

Thanks for all the help everyone, greatly appreciated!

 

Check the battery clamps. I ended up replacing my alternator, starter (x2), and battery. Was still getting drain on the battery which left me stranded a few times. Happened to see an electric arch on the battery post, and knew immediately I just wasted about 800 bucks on a 5 dollar piece/problem. Turned out that the negative battery clamp went bad.

 

Ouch.