Battery Replacement...AGM or Lead

I’ve heard that optimal aren’t what they used to be since company was sold and batteries now produced out of the country. I have optima yellow tops in my dodge and they’re just now starting to go bad- they’re from 4/2006. I’m really torn on what to get now but thinking about diehard or northstar. Unfortunately there’s no sears anywhere around me these days. I’ll be sticking with agm irregardless. I’ve put 2 acid batteries in my wife’s car in the last 4 years. The last one that failed wasn’t covered under warranty even though it was just Under 14 months old since it was a battery that replaced another failed battery under warranty.

 

I edited my previous reply with a few links, worth checking out

 

You can find some info about my findings and config values in my post history. My alternator constantly outputs 14.6-14.7v.

 

Another data point. I have vF Tuner and am waiting for the AT transmission tunes to drop. I will alter my charging voltage once the tunes are available. I have a X2 24F AGM currently. Had it since March 2020.

Even at the stock charging voltage, when I go to top it off every 3-4 weeks, I never see it below 90%. Usually it’s around 95% in the ~4 times I’ve topped it off since I got it. Today I put it on the charger to top it off and it was at 90%. It’s been consistently in the high 90’s temp wise here, so maybe the heat is drawing it down more. Maybe it’s because I top it off every 3-4 weeks, but I’m not seeing anything drop off too crazy, voltage is always around 12.9 and it’s always around 90-95% charged. Only takes about an hour to get it to 100%.

This is my first AGM, and it’s new so long term could be a turd, but so far I like it and the fact it’s sealed and not leaking/outgassing like the stock battery before I replaced it.

 

they looked it up on their computer and I believe I got a 24.

 

13.5 - 13.8 on a chilly morning, but yeah.... I have a solar on my aux, that tops it off properly.... but my starting battery with the witch hooked up to it will be 80% cap till I get a charger

 

Optima used to be a top choice, in fact I got Optima batteries in all 5 vehicles including a Blue Top in our fishing boat that's 9 years old and it's still strong. But the quality has gone south...maybe it's a coincidence but ever since Optima moved to Mexico they aren't made the same. The Red Top Optima in the picture is my second one in 1 year, the first one just quit taking a charge from the Noco (Genius G3500) charger...(i rotate my vehicles so when they are parked they're on their Noco) so they gave me another one...will see if it a good or dud purchase...a Red Top Optima in Alberta can be between $260-$280 CAD

 

I used an advanced auto AGM in my 2nd gen for years with no issue, and it never saw a charger or a change from the stock alternator output. I just got an advanced auto AGM (made by Johnson Controls-3yr warranty) for my 3rd gen, but it sits on an AGM maintainer all the time since I barely drive it. Came in under $200 I think. No way would I pay the $300+ for one of the instalanding brands.

 

I'm a bit of a battery-geek and had to pile on...

If all you're doing is starting the vehicle and driving on pavement, any decent battery will suffice. If the truck is going to experience more vibration and be expected to power accessories (winch, compressor, lights, radios, etc) then AGM might offer benefits worth the cost. AGM is a very good lead-acid battery construction, durable as all getup, and in the same size +50% more capacity. Yes, they have a higher voltage for float charging to realize their full potential. About every month or so, I just hook up a NOCO charger and float the charge up to levels AGMs prefer (14.4v). The only real weakness of AGMs (and really any other lead acid battery) is over-discharge... a few deep discharges (like below 11.6v) and it will permanently affect the internal chemistry shortening the capacity and life of the battery.

Batteries, like tires, are expendable. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of battery. Understand your use case and get the right tool for the job.

Lots of great info on all sorts of battery tech at Battery University. - https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm

 

Also I believe that AGM batteries have a lower resistance than led acid geometry...so that can help with longer alternator life.

 

7.8 volts, no problem.

 

"If you discharge the battery up to only 30%, the battery will live for about 1,200 to 1,400 cycles, depending on rate of discharge. On the other hand, if you discharge the battery all the way to 100%, it will only provide you with about 300 to 350 cycles." (ref. https://www.quora.com/Should-I-not-let-my-AGM-battery-discharge-below-70-or-50)

It may crank the engine; but at voltages that low, the batteries functional life is permanently shortened. It's how chemistry works.

 

Once you have 1 lead acid battery leak, you never get one again. Replaced mine with an Odyssey in the first 2000 miles. Factory battery is also junk by all accounts.

 

That's what the battery see's? If, so, this is great!

 

Which Noco model charger do you have ?

 

most o the time a ' New ' batt is NOT fully charged when needed as a replacement

they have been sitting on a self losing a % each/ every day simply sitting

then attached to the waiting vehicle................essentially will ONLY charge to the level
of that particular vehicle ............. No Less to that specific charging system
results likely the BATT is NOT at an Optimum level

then its usually driven back to residence
truth be known its never nor will it reach optimum level

not everyone analytical retentive
i place same batt on charger ( NEVER use a trickle Charger !!!!) overbite
to get a FULL CHARGE
place in vehicle usually take an extended run/trip

the BATT will then be charged to the system of same vehicle ( typically IS below Full Charge )

i do quite a bit of ' road ' driving as i rarely do suburban/ commuter / or in town bump/ grind traffic
so my Batts are rrarely in ' Deficit ' a direct result from the Cranking
+ the resulting ' Load '.........actually running ( nite / headlights altho LEDZ have lightened the Load)
essentially the Batt rarely rebound to the optimum charge
the main reason they go bad

today at 90%
& down hill Each successive daily cycle

each short trip to follow
down hill each cycle ...............

while many think all is well they could actually be down to 60-70%
& trending down

in real world environs the New tech Battz rarely last longer
altho they are Very Convenient

 

Guess I should have been more clear. I have a capacitor, not a battery. Millions of cycles to 0%, no degradation.

 

The NOCO G3500. I got it a bit ago on a w00t deal. It's served me well for all sorts of 6v and 12v charging applications.

 

The reason I run a AGM is to get around sudden cell failure and the corresponding no start on a lead acid. Over the years that has left me stranded more than once. An AGM tends to die slowly. Big advantage for me. I could care less about the capacity and charge issues. Works fine.

 

Question - I do not do any off road activity, but I would like to transition to an AMG battery for its longevity. What would you recommend, 27F? I hate changing my battery every 2 to 3years, I’ve always go with the Toyota brand.