Battery leaked acid. Removed paint on frame. Need afforadable chassis paint.

My battery started leaking acid pretty bad this week and removed some of the paint around the battery tray and off the frame. Before I replace my wheel well splash guards I want to repaint these areas the best I can. I don't need much but is there an afforadable chassis paint that's an all in one. I was looking at por-15 but it's quite expensive with having to buy the rust preventative and top coat. Also around the battery tray area the clear coat was basically removed and I was thinking of a clear spray paint or something as it's not too bad. Any recommendations?

 

Rustoleum.

 

Sorry to hear this happened. Same thing happened on my 2013 last year. Only had 61k on it.

 

VHT Chassis and Rollbar Paint. Epoxy based, gloss or satin, no primer required, and available in most autoparts stores.
http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint

 

Check for overcharging:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/what-to-do-about-battery-acid-leaking-from-caps.303263
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1-year-old-factory-battery-leaking-acid.221206

 

Thanks I'll look into that VHT paint. I was thinking of using some clear Rustoleum spray paint or something around the battery area.

My battery was leaking around the positive battery terminal and boiling out the seams on the same side. After getting a free replacement at Autozone I checked out the reviews and it seems that others have had the same problem with this particular battery. Hopefully it last more then 2yrs.

 

I would not use VHT.

Rustoleum is super cheap and you can get it in aerosol or in a paint can and brush it on.

 

I'll look into this as well. I might use this.

 

And why is that?

 

Because VHT isn't what it once was and is shit.

Google is your friend.

 

Try it if you'd like. But after learning that lesson the hard way I'll never buy or recommend VHT (DupliColor) again.

I have 2 60+ year old projects and they're both getting Rustoleum in a can on their frames. It works great.

 

Nothing particularly disturbing there compared to anything else. And the average guy will paint over chrome or oil then complain that the paint is shite.

 

Agreed on that.

But even proper cleaning and surface prep didn't save me from having adhesion issues to VHT primer with my VHT paint.

I get to strip a motor for the second time.

 

How long did you wait between prime and top coats?

 

Use a prep clean product to clean up that area. automotive paint stores will sell solvent based cleaners perfect for the job. and while youre there you can get a chassis black paint made for the chassis. you may even be able to use a duplicolor high heat paint instead. just make sure to let it dry all the way before subjecting it to abuse!

 

I'm a fan of the 3m undercoating. It's thicker than the "other store brands".

I found it at AutoZone,

http://www.jegs.com/i/3M+Products/1...VO1yDTYJ5-7oaTXHfeqn2i8Gt5GXwbI74kaAsXH8P8HAQ

 

I wouldn't recommend putting undercoating directly onto metal. Not really designed for that. More designed for being sprayed onto existing paint or finished undercarriage parts. Undercoating is more of a rock guard/noise dampener.

 

This was some months ago so not sure off the top of my head, but flash times were followed to a T, and VHT (owned by DupliColor) products were used start to finish, including surface prep.

No surprise, several emails to DC and none replied to.

I've been DIY auto painting for well over a decade, first motor project.

Rustoleum has worked great in the past on a 1950 and 1954 Plymouth, and is being used currently on a 1953 Dodge 3/4 ton and a 1949 Chevrolet coupe - no issues at all on any of them.

 

chassis saver. I used it. Works great. Don't get it on your skin or any good clothes. Use disposable foam brushes

 

link?