Bad battery cables

Seems like my car has some bad cables somewhere, doesn’t start really well, not sure how to track where the problem is though, any suggestions?

I’m also confused about this red wire that is cut, looks like it should’ve connected to the battery in the past

 

Yeah thats not super pretty, but if the connection is tight, then its probably not the worse thing....seeing a twist connector down in that fender is bad news....horrible wiring jobs have been done to this truck most likely. Those battery terminals are cheapo part-store ones...could check that the rust and corrosion has not infiltrated where the wires bolt on.

The battery itself is like a uber cheapo $100 battery with over 100 CCA less than what came in it originally from the looks of it. May be the larger part of your problems.

 

Chasing down aftermarket wiring issues is never fun.. Especially when its a hack job like what Im seeing in those pics. Household wire nuts, loose wires, we wont even talk about that green wire in your last pic

My recommendation - start simple. Check all those aftermarket crimps are tight, make sure the terminals are clean and tight, make sure none of the aftermarket stuff is drawing the batt down overnight

 

That's true. 26R is a small oddball size

 

I would start with all new battery cables and decent terminals !

Those terminals are made for an emergency far from home to get the vehicle home and repair things correct.

I did like the relay just sitting on the split loom.

 

Home made wiring job show it to some one that knows what they are doing before you start removing things will make it a lot easier to repair.

 

How do I check if it’s drawing from the battery overnight

 

You would typically take off neg battery cable, and put a multimeter from that removed neg cable to the neg post.... then start pulling fuses one at a time until you see a substantial drop.

Id first look at any aftermarket items added to the truck. Also check the underdash panel for any add-a-fuses and see if they are on switched power or always on.

 

Hmmm
Appears that the green and red wire go to this unknown/unplugged relay

fog lites?

 

Ditch those terminals and install military spec terminals. Do not go cheap, go straight to Napa and throw down $30 for them. You can order online way cheaper, just you won't know what you're getting, be sure they are not the lead free type. Pick up some copper crimp connectors too, and crimp them well.

<TL;DR>
I had exactly those terminals for a while, they worked fine, but it has always kept me awake at night. Found a set of "military spec" terminals on FleaBay, big mistake. These were the "lead free" terminals, which means they weren't pliable like lead. Had to tighten them so much I was concerned I was going to damage the battery, just as they started to snug up . . . SNAP goes the left side of the terminal by the nut, total junk.

So make sure they are lead, not lead free. You crimp one wire on each side of the reminal with the bendy-parts of the copper connectors facing inward so your covers slide on well.

 

I've used these straight connectors for years on all my equipment and trucks. I like how clean they are when the wire is inserted and locked down.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/battery-connectors/screw-on-battery-terminal-clamps/

 

Those look like good ones, you just gang the wires each side and torque them in there? What I like about the mil-spec is my Taco has two wires for each terminal, I can put a proper connector on each wire and bolt them individually.

 

I sucked it up and bought the SDHQ upgrade kit.

 

@rocknbil yes, just insert the wires and torque. Not the best choice if your not sure about future add-ons. That's where the ones you use shine. I was introduced to this screw style connector on welding leads and 3 phase equipment. Out in the field they were bullet proof. And rock crushers can wreck anything. When I stumbled on them for battery terminals I all ready knew what kind of abuse they would take and how simple they are to put together.