Automatic Transmission Flush or Fill Best Method

Yes, another auto trans thread. But after reading for the last hour or so I am even more confused than when I started.

My truck has almost 60k and most of those miles have been 35’s or bigger. I have a few thousand mile trip coming up (with a few hundred of those being off-road) so it’s time to change fluids.

First off with my mileage and use, what’s the best method? I know we have the full/drain cycles until clean or some flush method by unplugging hoses in a bucket or something?

I watched this video and she makes it seem pretty easy to do the drain/fill it’ll just take forever.

https://youtu.be/ej_6BZpK3gg

Flush info this seems a lot more difficult though.
Second gen:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

Third gen:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/automatic-transmission-flush.676116/

And then just make you hate me even more, what’s the word on fluids. I swear I saw a thread a while back to not use Toyota WF but to use something else.

 

3rd gen owner's manual p.577 states Toyota Genuine ATF WS (world standard)

2GR-FKS V6 engines...
10.5 quarts without towing package
10.7 quarts with towing package

Pan Gasket: 35168-04010
Filter: 35330-34010
Filter o ring: 90301-A0026
Drain plug and fill plug gaskets: (2)

$7 35178-30010

35178-30010
5mm hex socket
quart bottle fluid pump

I'm getting ready to drain and fill mine (I picked up 12 quarts) along with replacing the filter, filter o ring and pan gasket. I plan on measuring what drains and adding that back plus 1/2 quart give or take and will add or remove when checked at the appropriate temp.

I don't recommend flushing transmissions ever. The drain and fill will get everything except for what is left in the torque converter. That's good enough for me. Again, fluid levels have to be checked when engine is running at a specific temperature range. I know there's a thread somewhere already explaining that. Scan guage from Amazon or a temp gun will suffice.

I found these videos helpful. I just need to find torque specs for the filter and pan bolts, but hand tight plus a little more should be just fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YcZQhpGf1k0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9ZHWhW7Aso

 

It's 4 qt for a drain and fill 12 for a dry trans/converter.

So you can do it numerous times at least. Effectively a major flush.

 

I drained my pan this weekend, followed by removal of the pan and replacement of the tranny filter. I’m at 85k and said why not. Filter was $50 and gasket was another $50, and I bought 6 qts of Toyota WS on eBay from local dealer for $60 picked up. I used 5 of those quarts and will drain and fill another 3-4 qts at 90k. Did rear diff as well.

Ps - the magnets in the pan were pretty clean.

 

I bought ATF WS from eBay too. Beach Toyota had 6 quart boxes for $56 plus shipping, but they've raised the price to around $70.

 

I do the multiple drain & refill method as described in the factory service manual. I've used Toyota ATF-WS in the past due to warranty concerns. I'll be using Redline D6 at my next service interval.

The atf thread you're probably thinking of is this one...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-get-it-out-of-your-transmission-now.331521/

 

Ahh yes, the old ATF WS tranny fluid debate. I think changing it regularly is more important than the type of fluid. I've heard good things about valvoline and amsoil.

 

I’m leaning towards the drain and fill a few times. Wasn’t planning on pulling the pan though. Just the fluid. Maybe next change pull and replace the filter as well like @rtzx9r did.

I’m changing all of the fluids at once. Not sure I’ll have enough willpower to pop the pan off too.

I’ve got some WS stuff in my Amazon cart. But now I have some reading to do on fluid.

I’m pretty sure I’m just going to do the drain and fill a few times. Seems a lot easier.

That’s the link I was thinking of. Thanks! Now to read that. I’m well past any thoughts of warranty so if something might be better I’d rather use it.

 

I figure with my tire size and daily canyon commute any fluid improvements will help. I’m not really using my truck in a factory manner anymore.

 

Well that thread didn’t help at all. Started off strong. Then nothing. It’s only 50-60 bucks more use Redline than Toyota. Might just give it a shot because.

Or Walmart oil which seems the same this point.

 

My experience with other toyota auto's doing the 4 qt drain, and refill is to use only the toyota atf, and not to use any aftermarket equiv. I've found these so called equiv's not to to be the exact same thing.

 

YouTube. The car care nut. He does great videos. But it’s up to you. I am thinking of following and doing it myself. Maybe the stealer is a good choice but I haven’t liked them lately

 

Do you have the part numbers for the gasket and filter

 

Best video tutorials youll ever watch for our trucks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNqYpEpmUng

 

Good video. He does a really good job.

I think I’m going to combine the YouTube I linked (her method is better but more time consuming) and his method of getting the transmission to temp.

 

Yeah, I’m still on the fence about using Redline or something other than factory. The link @splitbolt posted had me rethink the factory stuff.

 

You can disconnect the transmission cooler hoses at the radiator and use a 12V DC pump like this to flush the fluid completely:

$22 DasMarine 12V 60W Oil Change Pump Extractor, Oil/Diesel Fluid Pump Extractor Scavenge Oil Change Pump Transfer Suction Transfer Pump + Tubes Truck Rv Boat ATV

https://www.amazon.com/DasMarine-Extractor-Scavenge-Transfer-Suction/dp/B07DCPMP4S/

Have the engine idling and have the old fluid drain into a pan. Have the new fluid in a big jug and pumped into the truck with the DC pump. Then go through the fluid level check procedure and top up as needed.

 

2nd post"

"

 

I drain and filled my transmission at 66k using Valvoline WS from the auto parts. At 150k currently with no issues other than needing to do the process again.

The drain and fill doesn’t really take that long and you can check fluid temp for the drip test by jumping two of the OBDII ports.

when I changed fluids the first time at 60K, the oil was pretty burned up.

 

i noticed the temp gauge was at 1/4 when it reached the desired temp so i will skip the wire jump and just get it to 1/4 hot, good enough for me.