Auto to Manual swap

ive got a 2001 Tacoma 3.4L 4x4 DC with the auto A340F. I bought it a year ago at 211k miles, and the previous owner must have gotten the “pink milkshake”. Brown liquid no burnt smell, new radiator. From what I’ve read brown liquid happens if it wasn’t flushed thoroughly and directly after the milkshake accrued.
I was able to get 10k miles before it started slipping yesterday.


I’m looking to possibly do the swap to manual.
I have found tons of write ups including the jungle code write up, but I cannot find any pictures of where things need to be, holes for master cylinder on firewall, electronics, (etc.)



Does anybody have pictures of the clutch pedal, master cylinder, electronics positions from a
2001 manual Tacoma?

Just trying to compare a stock manual to my truck and what I am reading to get a better understanding of what is involved and needed for this swap.

I have no experience with transmissions. But I believe with the proper preparation this can be a challenging yet simple swap, from what I’ve read.
I’d really like to make this happen.

A rebuild for my auto from IPT in Jersey is going to run about 3k with shipping and fluids and everything.

Is this swap more expensive or cheaper, I’ve read that it is cheaper but it doesn’t seem like it could really be much cheaper with the extra parts I would have to buy to convert, but I would never have to worry about an auto again.

I appreciate any help
Thank you

 

I'm sorry that you have to read my dumb response as the first reply to this thread, but I'm fairly certain this is going to be a bigger job than it seems. I think you'd need to get an ECU and possibly a different wiring harness from a truck with a manual transmission. This job would be way beyond my skill level, so I'll leave the details to the experts on this forum.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/safetydang-dc-build-4wd-swap-manual-trans-swap-thread.247243/

 

There are a few good write ups. It takes time to collect all the parts. I would guess 1k-2k in parts + labor. I did this swap last yr. You will need a ecm from the same yr, engine as your truck. This was the most expensive part of the swap and hardest part to find. I might be able to help with any questions. I did a 4x4 conversion, manual trans swap, manual hubs and regear at the same time. The only hole you need to cut will be the firewall for the clutch pushrod if I recall

 

Not a difficult swap, but a tedious one. You need to weld a new cross member for the transmission since it sits farther forward than the automatic counterpart.

You also need to re-pin the transmission/body harness, or just swap the harness entirely to accommodate for the manual transmission. You need a Manual ECU.

 

This is a JDM spec’d Motor and transmission and the ECU will be different than a USDM one.

 

Ahh, so it wouldn’t be compatible?
Or just the ECU wouldn’t be compatible?

I’m guessing it is coming out of a right hand drive, so would the shifting be from right to left as supposed to left to right?

 

Not too sure but I would stick to a USDM electrical system. JDM doesn’t have things like EGR and other federal emissions or safety systems.

 

Would you happen to have any pictures of the master cyl or any of the clutch pedal setup, or cross member?
Did you have to reweld the cross member?
I read about shorterning and lengthening drive shafts also but also read a stock should work.
Just trying to sort out the info from all the different sources I’ve been reading.

I don’t have any experience with welding but i have a welder and would like to learn if that’s something I have to do.

I’ve seen some cut their brake pedal but I’m guessing I would be able to use a pedal from a manual taco to replace mine instead of cutting it short.

I don’t know if I’m just opening a huge can of worms trying to swap. The farthest I’ve gone into my truck has been a timing belt and CVs/brake upgrade. I’m adaptable when it comes to taking on a challenge but I hope this is something that I wouldnt need help from a skilled mechanic for, as long as I keep my wits and research everything and go in prepared and not half cocked I feel I can pull it off.

I like to think that I am good when it comes to this stuff as I take my time and follow the correct steps but is there anything crazy that I should know about doing this besides the obvious?

I know I need to drill for my master cyl, find an ECU or learn how to repin mine, etc.
But is there anything with any sensors or anything like that I would need to know about? Like any special parts?
I’ve read the spot for the VSS can be different.

I have a J shifter already in my truck so I’m not worried about any of that.

 

As far as I know x member is the same unless you go from 4cyl to v6( even then it's 1inch difference)
Driveshaft is different, you will need the front section from a v6 manual. The rear section are all the same size. The only welding I did on mine was the brake pedal. You may need a speed sensor, if yours is in the t case you it may work. Tcase Is the same if it's a j shift, but im not sure if the t case input shaft is the same length auto to stick. As far as ecm goes you don't need to repin just unplug or clip a handful of wires that the auto trans used. Also don't forget all the interior pieces you will need 01-04 are the same as older tacos but they are a different color of grey.

 

I did mine a little over 4 years ago. I recommend getting a donor truck. It ended up costing me about $1200 to do the swap by selling the rest of the donor's parts.

Cross member is the same on the 3.4. the transmission mount is different. Like everyone is saying you need a manual 4x4 ecu of the same year. The IK2 & IK3 harness have about 10-12 pins that need to be depinned or swapped around. 10 or so pins of the ecu harness need to be depinned & or swapped.
Clutch start cancel & clutch safety switch need to be added. Or if you want to bypass them. Hole for the master cylinder. Front part of the rear driveshaft from a manual. Front manual driveshaft.

I recommend getting a transmission/TC harness, & not hacking into the PNP switch from the auto to get it drivable.

I believe I have some pictures of the hole next to a ruler. For the master cylinder you need to drill. When I have time, I'll try to find them.

Again. I recommend a donor truck. If I didn't need to store the donor in a storage lot for two years. The swap wouldn't of cost me anything just by selling parts I didn't need from the donor. I paid $3400 for it.

 

I have a 2wd 99TRD off road that I also want to swap. So...
Quick question about the swap. Why do you need an ECU? I've done manual swaps before, and haven't needed a new one. Is there something special?

 

From what I’ve read on multiple forums (don’t quote me on this), if you use the auto ECU it throws a code saying it isn’t detecting the transmission and therefore effects performance and mileage.

 

I figured a donor would be the easiest and probably cheapest way to do it. But finding an 01 4x4 3.4 M within 15 hrs of me is damn near impossible right now. Still working out the kinks and might end up having to go IPT rebuild if I can’t find everything for the swap.

 

Finding a donor then having it flat bedded is an option. It can run $300 to $500+ depending on location. Being savvy enough to find the guys that do that type of thing would be a chore.

But piece-mealing all the parts is definitely a bigger chore.

 

Basically. At the heart of these trucks is a computer controlled system. And it entails everything. Ignition. Throttle control. Airbags. A ridiculous amount of sensors. Every year of these trucks the ecu layout is different and a 2000 vs a 2001 the ecu connectors aren't even resemblable, let alone compatible. Add junction blocks & various harnesses that change just via the transmission type with their pin layout.
Some sensors will continuate ground and some will supply voltage based on just the transfer case type.

At the very least, your truck will throw a code. And more likely your truck won't start. Followed by a burning smell that smells expensive.



Sorry I'm just being dramatic.

 

Seems like a push button start, and some wiring would take care of the ecu, but I'm still shiny new to Toyota.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I didn’t realize there was that much of a difference between them.
I would rather hear the worst and know what not to do haha.
Right now I’m leaning towards just finding a used auto until I can find the right donor for the swap since it would probably take more time to find everything than it would take to swap it out. Especially in Florida.

I would love to just piece it and do it now but it’s my DD so trying to find every piece would probably put me out more than just finding a used auto and waiting for the right donor.

But I’ll still be searching haha

 

Does anyone know if it matters if I have the TRD OR package with the locker and a donor doesn’t?
Not sure if that would be something that would have to be pinned on the ECU to match mine

 

Ecu's for these trucks are only year/engine/transmission/2wd or 4wd specific.
So it shouldn't matter. The elocker has it's own ecu.
There is one wire going to the ecu from the elocker that only automatics have. In my case, I depinned it from the ecu harness and "safed off" the wire so it didn't make contact with the frame/body.