Audio cutting out intermittently

Over the past week, the radio and pandora have been intermittently cutting out, leading me to believe there's a loose wire after I installed speakers and the kicker key 200.4. Before tearing it all apart, I wanted to check in to see if there's something else I should be considering.

Thanks all!

 

Does it make a difference if you change between wired/wireless inputs? Could be an input connection issue. My BT audio is great and seamless but my wired usb cable for android auto is crap so it causes the signal to cut out (new cable ordered fwiw lol).

If it doesn't change, then it's likely a loose connection somewhere along the line.

 

I was hoping, but the fact that it happens with FM radio leads me to believe that's not the case. I'm hoping it's the amp losing power or something simple like that.

 

The audio in my factory 2013 Tacoma Baja has been cutting out sporadically for the past two weeks. The display still works but the sound cuts off. Also it works more when the volume is lower but still cuts out. Even with the radio turned off I'm getting scratchy static coming thru the speakers sporadically as well. Can it be fixed or just replace the headliner unit?

 

Is your sound system modified? Otherwise, we are likely dealing with different issues because my HU and overall setup is different.

 

It's completely stock stereo.

 

The 3 main things to check

-is the key’s Radio Detect button on? It should be off.

-are any speaker wires getting shorted? You’ll need a multimeter to test this easily

-are any wires loose? This is the least likely scenario, but still a possibility

 

I'll check the button, but wouldn't it not come on at all? I believe I have a multimeter that I've never used...guess it's time to learn. Definitely planning on checking for loose wires. Considering it's not just a speaker, my assumption is that it has something to do with communication from the HU to key.

 

for some backstory, some newer radios from certain car brands try to be way too smart, and they can tell if a speaker is hooked up or damaged or shorted or anything, and the radio can turn itself off to keep from damaging itself by sending power to a damaged speaker

The radio-detect button changes the amp’s input resistance to make these fancy radios think speakers are hooked up, but it can make less fancy radios (like Toyota radios and most aftermarket units) see too much resistance and shut off the outputs

for that reason, you want to leave it off unless you know for sure you need it on. But if you have an aftermarket radio, you want it off

As for the break in communication, that’s less common than you’d think. For the most part, wires and cables are either connected or not connected. And usually once they become disconnected, they don’t continuously connect and disconnect over and over.

my best guess is either the amp or radio is thinking something is wrong and shutting off the outputs. Then it thinks the problem is fixed so it turns a them back on. This could be shorted speakers, incorrect impedance matching, Or a few other problems

 

I'm having a similar problem but the speakers cut out in the driver's side quadrant. The rear speaker and passenger side speakers work fine. I'd be driving along on a smooth road and the driver's side front door and tweeter would cut out for 5-15 or so minutes and then come back on. And then go back off, all intermittently. No static, just on and off. No bumps in the road. Back in 2018 I replaced all four door speakers but this problem started a few months ago. We're in full winter up here so I won't be able to pull the door panel until spring (April). As Destin noted maybe the head unit is seeing too much resistance and shutting off the speaker(s)? But both the door and tweeter shut off. Someone noted the speakers run in parallel, so I'd think they would be on separate circuits and only one speaker would be affected. The replacement speakers are kickers from Crutchfield, matched to my truck.

 

this is incorrect. the 3rd gen's radio wires to the dash tweeter, and then the connector on the tweeter has wires that come off of it to go to the door speaker. if the tweeter plug is disconnected, it will also disconnect the door speaker.

if you're having issues, the first thing i would check is that connector at the tweeter.

 

Excellent.. Thanks Soundman! I was hoping the tweeter and door speaker were on the same circuit but I don't have a wiring diagram. Accessing the tweeter is fairly easy and a good place to start..

 

So winter is still in full force up here so I haven't been able to pull the door panel yet. I did switch out the tweeter so it's working but no sound from the door speaker. Is there a crossover in the wiring or just straight wires from the head unit to the speakers? If there's a crossover, where is it located? I just want to have a good idea what to look for when I finally pull the door panel.

 

there's no crossover. the diagrams indicate the wiring goes 'straight'(as straight as oem wiring looms tend to go) from the tweeters to the door speakers.

 

Thanks Soundman..

 

Correct, no external crossover

the tweeter and woofer have crossovers built into them so there is not one in the wiring or connectors

 

Thanks Destin

 

technically only the tweeters have crossovers. and it's just a 6db/oct capacitor crossover

 

Is that within the tweeter? Or the connector? I've switched the OEM tweeter to a Subaru tweeter that's in the 3rd gen tweeter upgrade thread. It seems to be working ok, it's just the door speaker working intermittently.

 

it's part of the tweeter, but the connector on the tweeter is what completes the wiring connection to door speaker. considering that you've changed the tweeters, i would definitely check if that connector is loose or has an issue-- take the tweeter out, and with the radio on, wiggle the connector in all directions to see if it makes a difference.