Audio-Control Epicenter & ESP-3 Wiring Question

I'm in the planning stage of a complete audio replacement for my 2018 Limited w/ the stock JBL system. I have a couple of processors from my '89 Acura Integra competition car that have been collecting dust for several years, and I would like to incorporate them into the new system.

I will be using a Sony XAV-9000ES which has a dedicated pre-out for the sub, R-L Front, and R-L Rear, and my Amp will be the Kicker CXA660.5.

I am a little confused on the signal wiring required for the Epicenter and ESP-3. If I was only using the Epicenter, it makes sense that I would run from the Sony's sub-out to the Epicenter Input, then from the Epicenter Output to the Kicker Amp Sub Input. Trying to add the ESP-3 is where I am getting lost. (Note: I am not going to utilize the center-channel feature, only the spatial restoration, so essentially, I'm using it as an ESP-2).

All of Audio-Controls diagrams show connecting the deck output to the Epicenter input, then running from the Epicenter to the ESP-3, then from the ESP-3 to the Amp Input. This doesn't make sense to me, since we have both a sub and R-L Front pre-out from the Sony HU. I have searched the internet for some kind of example but have come up empty.

Can anyone here assist?

 

this is difficult. not on the connections, but because of the pace of technology. i understand wanting to re-use on-hand equipment, but i'm also not so sure that the esp-3 does anything special that more modern radios like the sony can't do internally.

per the esp-3 manual(which, massive props to audiocontrol for still hosting such old manuals!)--page 8, the epicenter is supposed to be installed before the esp-3, "first in line from your tape deck" lol. it also specifies that any crossovers, eq, or other alterations would be done after the esp-3, just before the amps.

keep in mind this was tech from an era where rca outputs "from your tape deck" were very basic pass-through's, with very little eq or adjustment, which was what opened up space in the arena for audio control to offer further sound shaping options.

specific to your current question, the way you would set this up is that you would set the sony's front rca outputs to full range, connect to the epicenter, then the esp-3, then you would need to use the amps onboard crossovers, or an external crossover box before the amps, and then to the amps for the final signal amplification.

the disadvantage here is to use the older gear, you basically need to ignore all the newer functions and features of the sony, and treat it like a basic no-frills radio. you might be able to connect the epicenter using the sony's sub output, and then only connect the esp-3 to the front channel output, again setting it to full range, to take full advantage of it's capabilities, with a crossover afterwards, but it would only effect the main speakers, with no effect on the sub channel. the disadvantage here is that is the esp-3 delays the signal at all, you would have zero recourse for any further adjustment, and the sub channel will always be out of sync with the main speakers. this is quite likely why they recommend running everything through the esp-3, to keep all the final delays the same.



while the epicenter is still made, and still in use by a lot of installations, and still usable without the esp-3, i would actually encourage you to consider dropping the esp-3-- according to others better familiar with it's functionality, it's main feature was to sum the left and right signals into a center channel, with a slight eq adjustment feature.
https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/is-the-audiocontrol-esp-3-still-relevant.442033/

instead, i would really recommend attempting to use either the sony's onboard filtering and audio controls, or consider purchasing a new-age DSP or dsp/amp combo--that will offer far more options than the sony or esp-3 can offer in terms of eq, crossover control, and time alignment.

the dayton audio dsp408 is one of the cheapest full-featured dsp's at $160(lacks tuning integration, which can make it more difficult to program), minidsp c-dsp is $550, and audio control has the dm-810 that's $750, with a few million other options from every other brand between that. though that said, if you're interested in sticking with audio control, i'd really recommend the integral dsp/amp combo's of the matrix-dsp series, like the 5.1300, currently $899 brand new-- and includes accu-bass, which is slightly different, but has the same premise as the epicenter. to quote this link:

old tech has it's place, but much of the older sound shaping add-on units are really almost useless unless you insist on being absolutely stubborn and want to willfully ignore more modern computer advancements, which can still be a valid reason if you want it to be.

 

@soundman98,

Thank you for educating me into the current technology that today's HU's possess. Coming from the "old-school" early '90's car stereo age, I haven't really kept up with all the advancements. I like to keep things simple nowadays, so I believe I will take your advice and just try incorporating the Epicenter into the Sub's circuit and leave it at that. I plan to replace the JBL stock sub with a Rockford P3SD2-8, which seems to be highly spoken of on this forum, so hopefully it will play nice with the Epicenter.