Are These Camber Bolts for Full Caster?

The alignment shop told me today that they set my cam bolts for as much positive castor as possible. I’m not seeing it that way. Could you guys tell me if this is true?

DRIVERS SIDE LOOKING FORWARD



PASSENGER SIDE LOOKING FORWARD

 

The problem is that camber and caster is adjusted with both of those. Granted, adjusting one or the other will give you more of one item than the other, but it still messes with both when you touch one. Things are not as cut and dry as it looks, just because it looks like they didn't max out caster doesn't mean they did while keeping your camber within safe specifications as well.

If something is bent the dynamics of these measurements and how much you can play with them changes drastically as well.

It would be great to see a printout to know what the heck is going on in there.

 

I don’t have a print out unfortunately. They do everything by hand at this shop. This is the 3rd shop I’ve been to trying to get more lower caster. The others used a machine and they recommended I go see this guy. I just had this latest one done this morning. He said that camber was at about +2.5. I currently have Icon UCAs that have a built in +2 camber on the top, which would push the tire further back toward the cab mount.

I just got off the phone with the guys who make the SPC UCAs and he told me to get the most positive lower caster on drivers side, the rear bolt should be at 3 o clock and the front bolt should be at 9 o clock. And then the opposite for the passenger side. It looks like they matched front and back on both sides to me.

 

"...as possible."
Probably true.
Your rear cams are all the way outboard...along with front cams all the way inboard would give the most caster, but would sacifice camber.

Just imagine which way you want the lca balljoint to move; forward or rearward. In your case, forward. Now imagine what has to happen at the cams for that to happen.

 

The alignment shop told me that the front cam bolts don’t really adjust caster at all. They are for camber. The rear bolt is for adjusting caster, and it is all the way out. There’s no more adjustments that can be done to move the tire forward unless the camber adjustment will be way out of alignment.

Ive spoken to AccuTune and Icon. Both say that my truck should not be rubbing because they have used my same setup on other Tacoma’s without rubbing

 

What is your setup?
Suspension, tire and wheel specs?

 

285/70/17, 17x9 -12 offset and 4.5 backspace. 2.5” lift with Fox 2.5 coilovers and Icon tubular UCAs

 

I think I’m just going to have to change my UCAs to the adjustable SPCs to get even more caster. I don’t need much more.

 

Has anyone here had good success gaining forward caster with adjustable UCAs?

 

Increasing caster at the UCA reduces clearance at the firewall. Your alignment tech knows what they are talking about, in fact they know more than most techs.

 

Both will impact both camber and caster but due to the forward location of the ball joint, they are largely correct. I know working on 2nd gen trucks, my usual procedure if I was doing camber/caster on these was (1) rear full out, (2) dial in camber on front, and (3) dial in rears to get about .5 cross caster with right side more positive. These trucks like their caster so getting that maxed out is a good idea.

UCAs that move the ball joint forward will actually reduce caster but provide firewall/cab mount clearance. Those that move the ball joint rearward will add caster but will sacrifice clearance.

 

I still have not heard anyone explain what exactly camber does for the operation of a vehicle. I know and it has absolutely nothing to do with making clearance for a tire. The reason there are 5,201 threads on this topic is folks trying to jam a tire designed for a 3500 truck into a Volkswagen. If you think I'm full of shit, put on some shoes 6 sizes bigger and go play a game of basketball. Just sayin.
Zim

 

Camber allows the outside tire to remain mostly parallel to the road during cornering. As the car leans over, the contact patch remains flat, as opposed to the corner of the tire doing all the work. It can also help a tire tuck up under the fender when the suspension compresses.

 

Our trucks spec +0.5 camber, which really isn't a whole lot...

Positive camber directs load to the inner bearing and spindle rather than the outer bearing.
Positive camber helps reduce positive scrub radius.
Equal positive camber creates stabilization known as the front cone effect.
Reduces turning effort.

Also, as dynamic forces cause the tires to toe outward when moving, the spindle rotates about the SAI and caster angle, causing the tire to reduce or eliminate positive camber.

 

Thanks guys. I really had meant to say "caster" but these are great explainations. Caster, working with camber, really only does one thing and that is to return to center and straighten the vehicle. When you turn the wheel and let go of the steering wheel, the "caster" allows the vehicle to "return to center". It just makes life easy. It does not allow you to slam a fat tire into the wheel well. Lol.
Thanks
Zim
edit. I really can't believe I said camber. I was waiting for a pic of a Honda at 45 degrees. LMAO.