Are these alignment specs good?

Is this right?

 

Looks good to me.

 

what’s A good rule of thumb to look for so I know next time?

 

Basically just 0 toe, 0 camber, and usually 2.0+ degrees of castor. On my truck I run a good bit of negative camber, feel like it handles a lot better/understeers a lot less in corners.

 

Alignment looks good. You can increase caster if you go to taller tires / more negative offset wheels to help it not rub on back of the wheel well, but this is solid. I'd be happy with those specs if I was still on the stock tire size. My specs are about the same but @ +4 degrees caster to clear my 285's without rubbing (requires aftermarket UCA's).

 

Thanks! Same specs with a lift as well? Looking at the eibach setup

 

I’ve got 265/75/16 so slight difference than stock

 

Should be pretty sold still depending on offset. These are nice numbers especially if you're still on the stock UCA's. That size isn't tall-er enough to cause rubbing even at stock height. Higher caster is always nice on the road for drivability too.

 

stock wheels.

If I get new wheels or lift, I’ll need to get it done again right?

looking at Fb wheels right now with various off sets

 

Per my alignment guy, these trucks are as sensitive as Ferrari's up front and if you lift more than 1/2" I'd say it's a good idea to at least have it checked per him. I had him align mine with about a 2.5-3" total lift (the lift plus the 33's) and my settings were absolutely horrible when I arrived (toe was over a degree out). Took them 3x pulling it off and on the rack again to get it dialed in perfect. If you just change the wheels though and keep everything else the same then no nothing should change about the alignment and you should not need one. You really only need to get aligned if you change tire size or suspension geometry. Wheels with the same diameter would only move the tire inboard or outboard and should generally not effect wear.

 

Thanks!

 

And new wheel offset applies the same? Should be ok without one?

 

Correct, it would not change the suspension geometry on the truck, just move the wheel more inboard or outboard. Might change your turning radius a bit but the truck itself would be fine. And with that size tire you should be able to get away with a pretty aggressive offset before you would need to realign to get rid of a rub.

 

Do you know anyone with that much offset or any pics with a similar setup? Been trying to find some.

found this one

 

Off hand I don't know the specs of those, but with your tire size unless you do like a -40 offset you should not rub.

 

Thanks for your help man. As far as backspacing goes. Is it better to keep it standard or 4.5? And back spacing as to do with distance out as well? Or does it only depend on each well? The fn five start for example

New to this lol

 

Green is acceptable.
Up here we tweak the specs for the roads we have.
Mine is vastly different.
You’ll be fine..

 

Good Morning!! For South Bay So Cal (Redondo, Hermosa, Manhattan, PV, Long Beach, etc) who do you all recommend for alignment? TIA

 

Haha no problem. Fitment is pretty overwhelming at first until you get a grasp on it. I know the terms as offset since I come from the import tuner world. Backspacing seems to be more a truck/American thing.

This is a good post for info on wheel specs: Wheel Backspacing and Offset Info | Tacoma World

I wouldn't go with a wheel with higher backspacing, especially if you go with any bigger of a tire, as it can cause rubbing on internal components. Lower offset / less backspacing is generally preferred for aftermarket wheel setups - it brings the wheels further out to be more flush.

My setup is 17x8.5 -10 and they have just a hair of poke with the 285/70's:



Wheels with the same width, but in a -20 offset would push the wheels 10mm further out, 0 offset would pull them 10mm inboard.

 

Do these look good? Still getting a slight pull to the right. Taking it back today.