Are powerstop rotors good?

Hey guys. I bought the powerstop k137 rotor and pad kit in Sep 2019. Today - May 2022 - a trusted mechanic let me know that my pads and rotors need changing. The powerstop warranty is three years. I’m within warranty but not sure if it covers me since the rotors are just worn down and maybe “warped”. Is it really worth buying these over the autozone brand like Duralast that doesn’t have the drills and slots? Or even go cheaper? These ones didn’t even last me three years apparently. Thanks

 

You'll get a lot of differing opinions on this.....generally, braking technique has more to do with the longevity of brake shoes/pad, rotors and components than the quality of components. I've had excellent results with Power Stop brake parts, and, I've had excellent results with O.E. replacement parts. On the Tundra side, Duralast gets decent reviews more so for their "no questions asked, lifetime warranty" than their quality. (which I assume is equal to O.E. - they sell a lot of brake parts)

 

I have powerstop shit on my 06 and have no complaints. I engine brake a lot so my opinion might not mean too much

 

Aftermarket brakes work well ..but have a shorter life span than toyota OEM ..

 

A lot of people here seem to like them. I am generally not a huge fan of slotted or cross drilled anything as it reduces rotor mass. With current pad tech drilled iron rotors are more of a fashion statement than anything else.

 

I have their regular non drilled/slotted rotors. Didnt see a point on truck

 

Quoted for truth. In addition to less mass, there is also less swept area. Drilled rotors can also crack at the holes. Grungy, old brake fluid will boil in the caliper before the pads get hot enough that out-gassing affects braking performance. Pad out-gassing is the only scenario where slots or holes would help. Hell, unless you're running summer road performance tires, your tires will likely skid before the pads can generate enough friction to see those temperatures. If you don't track your truck on a road course, then there is no point (and only downsides) to drilling holes in your rotors. Aggressive pads do a lot more for braking than poking holes in the rotors, but they have downsides in terms of noise, durability, dust and rotor wear. Beyond that, you need bigger brakes.

 

My stock rotors warped. I cut them on a lathe which fixed the pulsation. A month later they warped again from regular driving.

so I rebuilt the calipers and went with the best parts I could find. TRD ceramic pads and stoptech cryo slotted rotors. Hasn’t warped since

when they eventually wear out I’d want to replace with an upgrade: bigger better parts. Probably 4Runner 17” calipers and tundra master cyl

 

Do you think I'd be better off with the duralast non slotted rotors? It's the same price because of the package deal they're running.

 

I'm not familiar with the Duralast line, but plain, non-drilled/slotted rotors are better in all practical scenarios that you are likely to encounter with a pickup truck. I suppose there are different grades of steel, cryo treatments, anti-corrosion coatings on the hats, etc. that purport to enhance performance or durability. Just choose a plain rotor (not cross drilled/slotted) at a price point you can live with. The last time I did my rotors, I got some nice NAPA rotors that I've been happy with...I'm fairly confident Duralast offers an equivalent product. In any event, I tend to avoid buying the cheapest available brake components.

 

It takes A LOT of heat for a rotor to warp; this would not occur with "regular driving". Usually the vibration people attribute to warping is caused by uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor surface; the metal of the rotor does not change its shape. This can happen if the pads are not properly bedded in when installed or if the friction material in the pads overheats. Proper bedding in procedures, as well as quality pads and mindful braking practices can eliminate the problem.

Good read here: https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

whether you call it DTV or warp does not matter. It gets the same point across. The end result (pulsation) is the same. Some people call a slap to the face a sudden momentary caress.
The end result is disc thickness variation.
Yes I do bedding in. Which sometimes isn't even recommended until 200+ miles after and there are many ways to do it, regarding speeds.

Many people have said their OEM's warp. Upgrading to StopTech is popular.
If you want to disregard that and take a risk, you're certainly free to

 

I have done brake jobs for well over a dozen friends over the past 3 years that own Tacoma's and have steered all of them to either the OEM pads (0446504070) or TRD Sport pads (

$170 PTR0989111 Toyota Genuine Parts - TRD Tacom Brake Pads (PTR09-89111)

PTR0989111) if you can find them. The sport pads do not last as long. I got less than 50k out of them.

Rotors. I am a huge fan of the Bosch Quiet Cast. I haven't had anyone complain.

Things to note. Please replace the pins, springs, and shims. Its cheap and prevents headaches.

 

I just get Advics rotors since they are the OEM manufacturer. For pads I go Advics since again they are OEM or Akebono which I think they were the ones who make the TRD pads.

 

Advics are fine rotors. The Bosch fit the bill and were a fair bit cheaper the last time I priced them. Either one should work.

Stay very far away from the stoptech pads. They are absolute and complete crap. I like the rotors....the pads not so much.

 

Try the Hawk Talon Rotors; I bought a set off Tirerack; 150 something shipped; Not bad for the price.

 

I tried out the Powerstop pads and drilled/slotted rotors a few years back. I still have them on and no issues from me. I came from "warped" stock rotors and this was solved it, much like any rotor would. @OP, if you want longer life from the rotor, then try out stock or Stoptech's rotors.

My driving style is light to moderate braking, frequent off-roading, and frequent engine braking.

 

My experience with powerstop vented/drilled rotors is the vents left funny wear marks where I'd get a distinct ridge along the vent line so my pads were worn in a wavy pattern... either way they looked cool but didn't last as long nor did they seem to do much better for braking.

My last purchase was for brembo disks didn't look anything special but those things were seriously heavy and thick. So far so good on my Volvo.

 

^

 

In this case OEM is amazing. My original front brakes lasted 120 000 km. I replaced the pads and rotors because I was bored. The new ones are wearing glass smooth and I can totally lock them up at will.

Why go aftermarket? I think I paid $300 for new rotors and pads and put it on myself.